Help! Cooling issue! Novice

Yes, I am aware that there was more than one gasket. I was diligent in my repair, thank you for mentioning it though. I have been known to miss things from time to time.

I got her all pieced back together and took her out last night to see if that did the trick, and most importantly to make sure that there were no other issues caused by the overheating. I ran it for about three hours from Idle to full throttle, with no issues. the Temp gauge would creep up to 180 and immediately drop back down to 160 in it's ebb and flow. Which is good, I was able to confirm the thermostat was working well. Water pump sealed off good, no leaks. (I used Fel-Pro KARROPAK Tan Fiber Sheet 1/64" Paper gasket for coolant connections) I did get more water in the bilge than expected, upon further investigation, my starboard side exhaust tube's hose clamp had failed, and I had some water leaking out.

Outside of that, I am back in business. Thanks again for everyone's help. I really appreciate all the wisdom received.

8122pbrainard wrote: Atomic Dam wrote: , I had to make my own gasket because John, Ken's post regarding the gaskets got me thinking. The thickness of the two will make a difference on how well the impeller seals on the front and back (shaft ends). If the bucket test fails, I'd look at the gaskets. Also, is the impeller you purchased OEM?. The OEM suggestions earlier were due to the shaft end sealing issue. It was found that the OEM impeller had molded in "O" rings on it's ends whereas the imitation did not. The loss of performance was attributed to the ends not sealing.

He made his own gasket for the cover, no mention of thickness. Most all these raw water pump paper gaskets are paper thin and pretty flimsy

I think you're referring to the Sherwood 09959 impeller with it's ribs Pete, not his Jabsco.

I figure that we both figure that he can get it together and see how it works

Atomic Dam wrote: Alright. I have her all put back together. I tightened up all the hose clamps suction side, some had several turns in them before they tightened up. As soon as I got everything closed up a thunderstorm rolled through, so I will get her in the water tomorrow and see how I did.   I am hopeful. I did not realize it when I originally took the 3 bolts out of the cover, that the body of the Impeller housing is completely free from the pump, only held in place at that point by the coolant hoses. Taking that loose made putting the new impeller in place considerably easier.

You probably noticed that there should be a gasket on either side of the impeller housing, but I figured I'd mention it just in case

I run my impellers 2 years and have no issues.   Everytime I try for a third year I pay the price with an impeller failure.   I think they last longer in climates that don't expose them to as much heat. In CA I only get two years.   My buddies have tournament boats here also, we all have come to the 2 year max program after seeing 3rd year failures.

I agree that your old impeller was certainly due for replacement. Any time I pull one out that looks like that I also had idle temps creeping up, they still work at speed though.

Alright. I have her all put back together. I tightened up all the hose clamps suction side, some had several turns in them before they tightened up. As soon as I got everything closed up a thunderstorm rolled through, so I will get her in the water tomorrow and see how I did.   I am hopeful.

I did not realize it when I originally took the 3 bolts out of the cover, that the body of the Impeller housing is completely free from the pump, only held in place at that point by the coolant hoses. Taking that loose made putting the new impeller in place considerably easier.

Okay. thanks for those tips.

Keno, it's the 0.56% that I fit into. It's only useless info to people who don't need it. I need all I can get.

Atomic Dam wrote:    I will also tighten up all the exhaust related hose connections as well..

Suction side of the RWP

8122pbrainard wrote: John, Tim mentioned it earlier, tighten all the hoses on the suction side of the RWP. You may be sucking a small amount of air.

Use a nut driver or socket not just a screwdriver.

There is no doubt, Ken has figured out the search method and probably has a God given memory that works better than most.   He has found solid solutions for more people than you can imagine.

KENO is the Holy Grail of google searches. Kinda spooky....

Ken thanks for that link. That is just what I needed. I thought I searched pretty thoroughly, and you find it right away.. You guys have been a great help to me so far.

That looks like a jabsco impeller. Better make sure the new one matches what you took out

GottaSki wrote: Its bad. The only power to pull water from the lake comes from the impeller's vanes springing back to shape. Your old one is 'set' and will pull extremely little to no water, especially at idle. .

Tom,
I disagree. You aren't looking at the impeller in the housing compressed against the cam. Mute point anyway since the new one will be going in.

Its bad. The only power to pull water from the lake comes from the impeller's vanes springing back to shape. Your old one is 'set' and will pull extremely little to no water, especially at idle.

Like Pete sez, confirm pull with the bucket.

Atomic Dam wrote: I will certainly do that. Can I accurately gauge whether I am cooling properly using a "fake-a-lake"? will it supply enough water for that?

If you haven't already found the FAQ thread in the maintenance section, take some time and explore it. In it, there's a link to the "bucket test". It's a method of determining the RWP performance.

BTW, on the hose is a poor indication of performance sine the pressure of the water hose overcomes and masks cooling problems.