302 Rear Main Leak |
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rebenj
Newbie Joined: June-25-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: October-05-2006 at 7:23am |
To: boat dr
Thanks for providing you input to me and to answer your question I reused the old original crank. It's in perfect shape with the knurling in the right direction and uses a two piece $70 seal. I will follow your recommendation with the use of the GM RTV. d*ck |
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ri78tique
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rebenj
Newbie Joined: June-25-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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To JoeinNY;
Thanks for the response and help. What you recommended is exactly what we were going to probably do. Again thanks for you help. d*ck |
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ri78tique
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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I've bought the 2 piece marine seal, it had the same Ford number on it a $14 auto seal had. A 2 piece seal uses a crank with directional wick lines, which is in the photo below, a RH crank. The smooth crank uses a one piece seal and the seal has the grooves. I think Ford started one piece seal cranks around 1980.
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Tim D
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boat dr
Grand Poobah Joined: June-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4245 |
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Rebenj, you say minor oil leak from the rewar main at the parting lines.stupid question,did they reuse the old crank? if yes go to question #2 Is the crank reverse rotation,the only difference is the direction of the knurling at the rear journal,this pulls the oil away from the seal.wrong crank and there is not a seal that will stop it,oil gets fed to the seal rather that away. if it is indeed at the pan try this ,good clean bead at fore and aft pan hump,GM (mr. goodwrench) brand RTV,set pan and install pan bolts,then allow 30 min. for the stuff to go off. wait overnite and tighten to specs........this is how i do it.....boat dr
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JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
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Absolutely stagger the joint away from the parting line of the engine and pan and apply a dab of rtv at each joint of the seal and at the parting line of the block at pan where they meet the seal. Also be careful on the torque proceedure with the pan use a good torque wrench, follow the manual and then after the rtv is well dry give it another retorque, then after a warming cooling cycle or two give them another re torque. Good luck
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rebenj
Newbie Joined: June-25-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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I have a 1978 Commander Ford 302 reverse rotation engine in my Ski Tique. The motor was rebuilt 2 years ago and has had a minor oil leak from the rear main from both parting lines since. I used to correct Fel Pro seal P/N 17746. Changed the seal again after a year and still had the same problem. Motors out and I am ready to change it again but this time I have a Ford seal from SKIDIM. Talked to various Marine Engine rebuilders and some say to offset the seal and some don't. Should it be offset or not?? Any other suggestions to offer would be appreciated. The crank end is mint, no groove ect.
Regards d*ck |
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