HELP!! Transmission swap with PCM V-Drive

Well, everything is in (minus reat ballasts) and I took it out on the water for a test run and the Transmission ran like champ. Only had one issue and that is the droplets shaft seal is slinging water up on the engine while running. I will be taking a look at that tomorrow. The only other thing I notice was a slight whine when drivin, but I had all of the hatches open so I could hear everything. With the hatches closed I couldn't hear it. I want to thank all of you for the help and advice.

So I have them mating without the shaft and ended up being some spots on the v-drive side of the coupler. Corrosion caused some pitting that was holding it out. They mate freely now, but I had the engine so far out of alignment it has been a booger to get back in. I cannot seem to get rid of a pinch at LC, RC AND LOWER A. My question is this.. do you re-mate the coupler each time you make an adjustment? I can adjust and get it where the feeler is good all the way around, but then when I re-mate the coupler it has the pinch back.I will be buying a new coupler this winter.

Thanks Gary. I'll figure them out one day. I thought if I posted it in PN and pasted the link here it would work...Keno has me wondering about that too, but dang I hate to take this shaft back out. Lol trying some adjustments right now to sew if I can get it.

These I can do it's those links that have my time 

https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/20030/20200901_183304.jpg

It was actually extremely hard to get it apart. However, once it came apart it did not want to seat again (I know this because it took a while to get the shaftbout lol). The coupler and the prop both were stuck on the shaft (almost looked like rust under them). Once they were removed I lapped both ends to assure a good fit. Made sure the faces were good. It looks like it lines right up and starts the seat, but won't go all the way. It is an even gap all the way around. That is why I don't even know where to start the adjustment.

Liquiddreams wrote: Well, everything is in, but now the shaft coupler isn't seating correctly.  Cannot get the shoulder on to even start the alignment. I have been looking for alignment steps on the forums, but so far I have not been able to find them. The coupler looks like an even gap all the way around, but it just want seat. Any ideas?

Gary S wrote: This just came up on another thread with a damper replacement. Chevy's have another bolt under this plate- You can thank Matt for his investigative work http://https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49060&KW=&PID=589252&title=dampener-plate-replacement-yikes#589252

Thanks. I found that late last night and I am planning on checking that this morning. I didn't even remove the plate. I would have never thought the manufacturer would have hidden a bolt under there. I have rubbed the back of that bell housing so much I think it is going to press charges. Lol

Thanks Ken. I didn’t check that after I posted it’s way to fricking early. Since the ice is out I wanted to get an early start to the holiday weekend

This just came up on another thread with a damper replacement. Chevy's have another bolt under this plate-

Somebody has to ask those silly questions 

Just remember, when the going gets tough, the tough pull out the reciprocating saw or grinder and show that shaft who's the boss

KENO wrote: One other thing, I think you have a double tapered shaft and it'll pop just like a prop does on the other end of the shaft. Nothing, nothing, then bam it pops. You just don't have much room to whack the center bolt on the puller with a hammer when things are tight When the time comes it's a lot easier to put the coupling back on the shaft with the tapered shaft setup.