Transmission toast?

So after painting and getting everything back into the boat, pressure test came out good, and the transmission has so far been working with no problems (or leaks) after a few hard days on the water so far this (southern hemisphere) summer. I am somewhat amazed that everything seems to have gone smoothly - thanks a lot to everyone who chimed in with help and guidance, especially Ken (as always) and Joe. It really is hugely appreciated. A complete novice like me would never have been able to get this done without all the input from you guys.

Looks like I'm in luck again. Before going the sanding route, I decided to flip the outer pump gear over. I couldn't flip the inner gear over, as I had installed the input shaft sleeve already - again! I neglected to mark the pump gears when I disassembled the pump, so I wasn't sure which way around they should be installed, hence I thought it worth a shot to see if flipping the gear over would make a difference. I then proceeded to tighten the bolts down evenly in very small increments, trying to get the pump housing to be pulled down onto the forward/reverse adapter as evenly as possible. And it worked! Managed to get the bolts torqued to spec with the shaft still spinning freely.

Bit of touch up painting to do on the case, and then need to get the transmission back in the boat to test oil pressure.

Wilhelm Hertzog wrote: I know: it must be that 12th reverse clutch pressure plate spring. 😅 Seriously though, I guess it must be something in the oil pump getting stuck, because the oil pum housing bolts don't exert any pressure on any of the clutch plates, right?

Looks like my luck didn't last long. Finished assembling the transmission (except for the selector valve and oil strainer assemblies), but when I torque the oil pump housing bolts to spec, the input shaft locks up. Backing off the bolts ever so slightly (less than half a turn) frees up the shaft again. Clearly something is wrong somewhere. Any advice as to where to start looking?

I was very careful to put the same number of clutch plates back in that came out. Thinking back, the forward clutch cylinder had to be pressed into the ring gear with some force to go in (it also came out with difficulty when I disassembled things), but the snap ring that holds it in place went in fine. There was a bit of fore-aft play on the input shaft before I tightened the oil pump housing bolts down - not sure if that is normal.

Like I said before, and I think TRB seems to agree, what some people call a shoulder really isn't. It's just the smooth part of the shank above the threads.

KENO wrote: I think that if somebody threaded a 5/16-18 bolt hole for M8 threads, I'd be worried about the strength of those threads

link

Thanks Joe.

Hit another snag: the outside diameter of the rivets on the new damper plate (ALTDA-106A from Basic Power Industries) is slightly larger than that of the old damper plate. And it is also slightly larger than the counter bore of the flywheel (measurements in millimeters below):

Install the sleeve at the end before you install the pump it’s the best way and it insures you’ll have no leaks in the future

There is 2 bushings in the planetary and there are holes in the planetary the bushings line up with

I'd figure a way to add a 13th one just to mess with the next guy

Just me, but just cause Joe uses 11 and yours was built with 12...........I 'd probably put in 12 and not worry about it.

Heh, Ratty rocks, an island of sensibility

And Wilhelm was comparing an early manual with a newer manual.