RR 351 long block

KENO wrote: ultrarunner wrote: Very informative discussion. I'm curious though, if this particular issue can be corrected with the later model rudders that have the integrated adjustable trim tab. I think those rudders were on the longer hull boats, like Sports and such.... If this particular issue is the lean because of engine torque with a normal vs a reverse rotation setup, then the rudder tabs will do nothing to change that. You must be wondering about this because you bought a Hydrodyne with a LH prop ?

Ha! I just saw this! Too funny. With that said it just arrived in Chapel Hill yesterday for its winters nap in a toasty warm garage (thanks mom) ;-)

Here's a picture of an 83 or 84 (basically the same those two years) from somewhere here on CCF

ultrarunner wrote: Very informative discussion. I'm curious though, if this particular issue can be corrected with the later model rudders that have the integrated adjustable trim tab. I think those rudders were on the longer hull boats, like Sports and such....

Good luck Frank 

Glad to know the photo bucket pics are back - I used the new style transmission mounts on the old style cradle, same hole location on the stringers but have maybe one thread of adjustment left on the bottom. Considering everything on my boat was replaced and the amount of variation in these boats- I suspect they would not have enough room for adjustment on some boats that originally came with a 1:1 bw.

   Keeping the older style mounts would have given more space for adjustment- for the mounting blocks on the trans the older 3 bolt ones for the bw would have worked with two bolts lining up on the pcm trans - be uglier but you can cut off the extra.

Later on pcm switched to “space saver” mounting blocks for the 1:23-1 - using those would require you to drill new transmission Mount holes on an older style cradle and would not be recommended. Once you Mount the transmission is the original holes you have the proper front/back position handled - if your front mounts don’t line up on the original holes drill new ones but I suspect they will.

Shorter shaft, new damper, new propeller and off boating - well a shift cable bracket mod likely as well.

KENO wrote: Just to be sure you realize there's a little more than swapping the transmissions Frank, you'll be needing  A new prop shaft or you'll need to be cutting yours down by 3 inches and cutting a new keyway You already mentioned a new prop A new damper plate because the number of splines are different on the PCM 40A and your Borg Warner transmission input shafts New engine and transmission mounts Some new exhaust hoses between the riser outlets and your mufflers unless the mufflers are gone, then you'll most likely need new hoses anyways because it's hard to stretch those hoses and there's no extra length You'll need a little "seat of the pants engineering" This swap seems to get thrown out there, but is seldom or never done, and then the process actually documented here.  Maybe somebody who has actually done it will come along with all the details

It’s been done, and written up here with pictures- it’s just been a dozen years or so and the pictures disappeared. It is a bit involved and expensive but the mounts don’t need to be changed on an old boat.   I bought the new style trans mounts after doing the Internet research thinking they were trans related but really it was the stringer/cradle differences for the single exhaust that changed the mounts.   New ones do work in the old boats but just barely - so stick with the old ones.   Damper, shaft, prop - add nearly a 1000 to the cost of the transmission.   Usually only worth doing if you have a line on an engine and a used transmission sitting around.   

gun-driver wrote:  But we have those Damn Benjamin’s buying up everything CC related on the eastern seaboard.

I agree. Not knowing that the rest of the drive train was newish that makes total sense. 

Gary S wrote: First I have ever heard that the front mounts were different- knew the backs were. I'll have to look at my extra stuff closer,I have gt40 fronts on that complete engine and I have several fronts from engines with velvet trans. From memory they are the same. Like Paul says really the engine is moving from only 12* down to 0*

First I have ever heard that the front mounts were different- knew the backs were. I'll have to look at my extra stuff closer,I have gt40 fronts on that complete engine and I have several fronts from engines with velvet trans. From memory they are the same. Like Paul says really the engine is moving from only 12* down to 0*

I’m pretty sure if the mounting blocks are on the tranny the existing mounts will work, if no blocks they are available from skidim for 40 bucks ea.

Hey Frank. You are correct. With the gear reduction the output shaft is angled allowing the engine to sit level. I will take $1200 for it. Transmission cooler and lines included. Plus shipping.

I have a freshly rebuilt PCM 40 Transmission for sale if you decide to go that route.  The rear mounts that you currently have should work.