1978 Ski Nautique Restoration

See the other thread

Since it's am 8 foot door, the opening is probably a few inches less due to finishing trim.

KENO wrote: What are you looking at for an oil pan to replace it with.?

Just searched "351w oil pan."
Summit has them under $100, but after searching the OEM # R004005 with price tags of $400 and up, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something that might be unique to PCM or correct craft.
I think your link will answer this though. Captain Ken comes through again.

67 ski nat wrote: My ‘marine’ pan is aluminum (corrosion resistant?) And holds 8 quarts (cooling ? ) Slight mopar improvement Just things to consider

Thanks. As long as it'll fit 😀

What are you looking at for an oil pan to replace it with.?

KENO wrote: If the mounting flange is warped gouged, not concentric or if the coupler is loose on the shaft..............it's bad It's a heat shrink interference fit Here's some reading in the link link Plenty more with a search too

Ah...ha. thank you!

NeilMcG wrote: wayoutthere wrote: Far as alignment goes, ron tanis has some very good videos on the subject. Start fresh with new cutlas bearings in the strut. What's your opinion regarding installing a new coupler?

My opinion on a new coupler ;
spend 600 bucks and get the dual taper shaft and coupler to go along with the new cutlas bearings and hdpe stuffing box. Hand adjustable instead of 2 big pipe wrenches.

Heres why;
-an hour of changing nuts bolt washers and spacers to pull the original coupler off sucks almost as bad as oven heating and mig welding gloves to put the coupler back on the shaft only to find out after all your hard work theres a bent shaft and you have to break out the nuts bolts washers and spacers again.
-even if the original coupler is perfect i'd bet there is some wear on the shaft from the stuffing box and strut.
-the dual taper shaft is a breeze to install/remove making stuffing box and cutlas bearings in the future a much easier job.
-it was priceless for me when it came to alignment because i had to solve it in a way other than the traditional method.

https://skiboatpartsonline.com/ARE-Shaft-ARE-0035

https://skiboatpartsonline.com/stuffing-box?search=Stuffing%20box

After your happy with alignment Remember to torque the new coupler to the transmission in a north south west east pattern and diveide final torque by 3 or 4 and make that number of passes to final torque i.e if torque is 30 ft pnds make 3 passes 10 20 & 30 don't just slam it together and tighten them up.

If the old one was tight as hell it is probably perfect.  If you got it off with no problem the center hole is loosening up and it is shot.   There is probably a spec you can measure with a Mic to verify but tight on removal is good.

NeilMcG wrote: wayoutthere wrote: Far as alignment goes, ron tanis has some very good videos on the subject. Start fresh with new cutlas bearings in the strut. What's your opinion regarding installing a new coupler?

NeilMcG wrote: KENO wrote: Since you have 8 mounting lag bolts that go vertically into the stringers (no cradle), it would be kinda tough to use through bolts without quite a major redesign of the stringers.. I was thinking a thru-bolt running horizontal in addition to the vertical lags.There's a pre-drilled hole at the bottom of the bracket that's center to the holes on the flange resting on the stringers, so a bolt could pass through without interference. The only thing it would need is a piece of flat bar on the outer side with a drilled hole for the bolt to pass through to distribute the load once tightened. But the stringers are now quite solid so it's ok. The only debate left is deciding what matrix to put in the bore holes...epoxy putty, peanut butter, 4200 etc.

KENO wrote: Since you have 8 mounting lag bolts that go vertically into the stringers (no cradle), it would be kinda tough to use through bolts without quite a major redesign of the stringers..

I was thinking a thru-bolt running horizontal in addition to the vertical lags.There's a pre-drilled hole at the bottom of the bracket that's center to the holes on the flange resting on the stringers, so a bolt could pass through without interference. The only thing it would need is a piece of flat bar on the outer side with a drilled hole for the bolt to pass through to distribute the load once tightened. But the stringers are now quite solid so it's ok. The only debate left is deciding what matrix to put in the bore holes...epoxy putty, peanut butter, 4200 etc.

5200 is bomb-proof.  Very difficult to remove.  4200 is less "permanent".  Still the same high-quality 3M below-the-waterline sealant, just not so stubborn if one needs to remove it. 

Can you through-bolt it?  I prefer through-bolts to lags if possible  I would then bed the bolts in 3M 4200.

I did the same in my 1987 Malibu, found small rot area under the engine mounts, drilled holes, first poured in a product bought at the lumber supply designed to kill rot, really stinky stuff.   Let that soak in to treat the old wood then filled it as you did with some type of recommended epoxy.   That area was still hard and good when I sold the boat 10 years later after hundreds more hours use.