broken seat base help

Bremsen- Great job on the seat base repair!
Thanks for posting your step by step and including photos. This thread will certainly be one that many will reference when they have the seat base issue (I'd better check mine).
-Brad

So, where do you get those fancy smancy sliding seat rails? I need some.

Ryan, Looks like it will never break again! It's to bad most of it will be hidden so the good work you have done can't be seen.

Thanks for the tip rudderdad. There are actually a lot of heavy truck places nearby so I'll see what they've got.

I was mixing up about 5oz at a time which was just enough for one layer of 3/4oz mat. If the resin is setting too fast back off the MEKP a little.

To lay the mat down, I brush a light coat of resin on the base, then set the piece of mat on the part. I dip the brush back in the resin and then stab the ends of the bristles into the mat. You shouldn't 'brush' the mat. I keep doing that until the mat is just saturated and I can't see any air bubbles.

The front (tall) corners were the most difficult since the mat has to conform to a bunch of angles, so I tried to use smaller pieces for that area. In total I used about 5-6 layers of mat and 1 layer of cloth on the whole base. It's now solid as a rock.

Keep at it, you'll get the hang of it. I had never laid fiberglass before this project either. My only previous experience was autobody work, so I'm familiar with fillers and sanding. But thats it. I'm sure I made some mistakes, but thats all a part of learning.

Well, I figured I'd give an update. It's no stringer/floor repair, but maybe someone will take something from it.

removed the clamps, everything held. I also stuck the broken corner back into place, it actually held its self.


I cut some smaller pieces to build up the corner a little.


The added another 2 layers of mat to the back side.


flipped the seat over and started topside. It was pretty badly cracked/broken.



Used the dremel to grind down the sharp edges and make a recess for the 'kitty hair'


I prefer Evercoat products, but as usual Bondo brand is all the local store had


Mixed it up and put a coat on.



Decided to put in a layer of cloth for added strength.


Back to the top, I sanded down the kitty hair. There are a couple spots I need to fill one more time before moving to bondo.


Back underneath I applied another layer of mat to the entire edge, and then finished up the whole underside with more mat. On the final layer I added the sanding wax to the resin per instructions.

After seeing I wasn't the only one with a base like this I wanted to make sure it didn't break again. I decided to cut off the lip underneath so that the entire edge sits against the floor. Hopefully that will prevent it from breaking again (only time will tell).



And thats where it sits for now. I will post one more update when its all done. Sorry for hijacking your post 88, hopefully it will help you or someone else down the road.

Yes, the 1 layer of mat isn't going to do it. I hope your'e adding more.

Ryan, It looks like your'e ready to go out on a Haz Mat emergency responce!!

You look like an expert!

88, I would really rough up the surface with a grinder. I don't think you need to go all the way to the base glass. Wipe it down with acetone. Building up the flange with layers of glass is a great idea. The wood would work but we have enough rot on this site already!!

I upgraded the seat in my '77 Martinique with that exact seat base and then had the same failure shortly thereafter. The solution is to add 1/4" thick ( or so) strips of wood under the flange before you screw it to the floor. The wood helps support the seat base and thus no cracking.

When I worked at "cc" I made a few of those, they came in (white,taffy,gray,lt blue) If you don't want to fix it yourself, send it to me I will fix it for you!!

If not maybe..Nautiquefanatic has one he wants to sell..

hey Kurt, i visited ur myspace and i sent you a friend request!!! it looked liked you needed a friend!

It was definitely mid-high $2xx, I figure after shipping I didn't want to low ball anyone on an estimate.

All the edges were cracked completely off of ours, threw a couple L-brackets on each side and it's rock solid and doesn't look too bad, the seat hides it pretty well.

It is a really easy repair. I agree with TRBenj, you don't have to do the outside if you want to protect the gel cote appearance. Give it a try. You will learn a little about working with fibergla$$. You will save a lot of money. You can take pride in your craftsmanship when finished.

By the way, I have a silly question for you. Which way does the base face? Does the lower end of the slope face the bow? My seats have been out for a month and I can't remember.

TRBenj wrote: If youre really picky, the piece (or similar) may still be available from CC

~$300, repair it yourself.