Ford Interceptor

Pete is a wealth of knowledge warehouse, and always willing to share.
One of my biggest problems is not asking , "maybe I don't know it all,and is there an easier softer way"??????
Keep this site rolling Pete,the do's and the DONT'S, also the been there done that. But the best one's are "Don't even think about doing this" complete with pic's...................boat dr

Thanks Pete, if polyethylene is a material that 5200 won't bond to I can get some of that from work in both film and tape material. I work for xpedx and we're in the packaging materials business. I could place a light gauge poly film over the 5200 and then put masking tape over that to hold everything in place. I'm beginning to see that this is going to be a messy operation.

Thanks Joe, not quite the tip I was looking for.

Hello Pete, I'm making good progress. Some of the tips you have given me have really helped out a lot. Perhaps the best one is using a Dremel tool with a 1/8" bit to clean out the seams. So, maybe you have another tip that would help me. How can I prevent the 3M 5200 from dripping out of the bottom seams along the keel? I have them reefed out, cleaned and deoiled as well as possible and I'm getting ready to caulk. Can I use tape over the 5200 to contain it? or will the 5200 bond to the tape? Any suggestion here would be appreciated.

Steve, The Xylene and Toulene are right next to each other in their evaporation rate and their solvency. Not much difference. Also, nothing will dissolve cured silicone. The goo that Bill is seeing may be oil,paint and previous caulking leftovers. It is a problem that really the only real fix is to remove the ply, clean and then rebed the full joint with 5200 and not just the edge of the seam.

Bill, Is the ply tight to the frames? Any loose screws?

Bill, The oil dry is the granulated clay product that you spread on the floor to soak up the oil. Plain cheap cat litter is the same stuff. You can grind it to a finer powder by walking on it and then sweeping it up. It will get into a smaller crack that way.
The 5200 is pretty forgiving on oily woods. There are primers for teak. I know Sika makes one.

Bill, Without flipping the boat over, you have gravity against you!! Brush some acetone into the seam to see if it may break down the goop. Mix a poultice of oil dry and a mild evaporating solvent like toulene and see if you can get some into the seam. You may also need to route them out with the Dremel tool and a small 1/8" dia. burr.

Damn, I hate silicone!!

Bill, I would just go down to Napa or equal and see what they say. It shouldn't be a problem but do avoid the big auto parts store chains. I avoid them anyway!!!

[QUOTE=MaddMarxx] Best of show

As well it should be: what a beautiful job, Pete. Really enjoy the knowledge you share in your posts.

john

Best of show

Bill, It was our ref. section that started me thinking it wasn't the original engine plus the length of the Compact would be more likely to have the 6 cyl. The 85hp Interceptor would be the Ford 144ci. and the 100hp would be the Ford 170ci.both in-line 6's.

You can get a manual for the engine at marineengine.com

Internal parts really shouldn't be a problem.

Bill, I just got back from Wisconsin and of coarse not too excited about work tomorrow but that is life for me at this point! I have the book out and the first thing is it seems that a previous owner has been doing some "hot rodding" with the addition of the second carb. The "A" states it is the 256ci. single carb (135hp). A "B" engine would be the 256ci. dual carb (150hp). The next "1" is the equipment code and says it came with the Dearbomatic 1:1 (not the Velvet you have - so you are correct that it has been changed out). It also has a Sherwood water pump, special engine mounts and Mallory ignition, The "R" is the RH reverse rotation. The "2" says it was made in 1962 and the next numbers are the actual serial # of the engine.
Bill, take a peek under the upholstery on the dog house!!

Bill, Take a look at the engine # again. I think you have some numbers missing. I think there should be more in front of the "R". It would be the equipment code and will tell what trans came on it from Interceptor. It does sound like something has been changed over the years. I have seen CC do some weird things but never put in lag bolts on a angle. The CS on the hull ID confirms that it is a Compact Skier. The upholstered dog house still bothers me and I think something was done there. It should be varnished plywood.

Hi Pete & Joe...I'm back. finally got the boat picked up and home in my garage. Here's some of the information that was missing from our previous conversations. The boat's title shows it as manufactured in 1962. The title shows the hull number as CS434. I have found the number M165 stamped into several of the wooden components such as the seat backs and under the fordeck so I'm curious about why there are two numbers. On the front of the engine above the tach drive is stamped Interceptor No. 1R 211583. The name tag on the transmission says Velvet Drive model
10-17-004. And then there is a serial number. The motor box is made from mahogany plywood, varnished on the inside and upholstered on the outside. I looked carefully and cannot see any left over holes, cut-out wood or anything else that would indicate that the engine was not the original. The transmission however is a different story. The mounts for the transmission which are also the rear mounts for the engine are slightly wider than the engine stringers. Because of this the bolts (they may be lag bolts) that pass through the mounts into the stringers are at an angle rather then straight up and down like you would expect. There are wedges under these mounts that don't match the type of wood used elsewhere in the boat so I'm thinking that perhaps the transmission has been replaced. So, with this information I hope you can help me learn more about my boat.

Bill,

Congrat's on the boat!

Paul,