Rudder wear

I too had to reread the thread, I would highly doubt the rudder is ever going to break, although I would lay off the power slides for good measure. I wouldnt even bother to grind on it if you are currently happy with the way the boat drives, likely to do more harm than good.

ok, who thinks that i NEED to replace my rudder this year. the boat seems to perform fine no vibrations or anything i just don't want it to snap while my wife is driving the boat. what do you think. this rudder is going to cost me 400 bones so obviously i would rather not replace it if i don't have to.

I haven't used a battery charger yet. But I just bought the boat...

phospher wrote: GrandSlam wrote: I am asking about the condition of the zinc that is on the shaft. Do you have a sacrificial zinc on the shaft? How would I tell if there is sacrificial zinc on the shaft? thanks!

Those are more common in salt water, and for Aluminum, not brass/nibral. If corrosion was that bad on brass/nibral everybody would have problems with their props, rudders, and fins. I still think it is mechanical damage that has been smoothed out by the abrasive qualities of water over time. Why would you have corrosion in JUST that ONE spot???

Tim

got it. i'll check the pcv valve. i figured that it was the elbow piece attached via a gromet. the engine is a 351w ford commander marine.

Phosher, I am not asking about the condition of the shaft, I am asking about the condition of the zinc that is on the shaft. Do you have a sacrificial zinc on the shaft? We do on ours; the idea is that if there is any electrolysis the zinc will erode first before the shaft, prop or rudder. Jerry

Phospher, it looks like electrolysis to me. I know some of the CC do not have a common bonding system. Also I do not see a zinc on your rudder. How is the zinc on your shaft? If it was me I would replace the rudder and try to determine the cause of the erosion. Good luck, Jerry

Pete what kinda beaver eats brass?The guy does not say where the damage occured, but if them beavers up there eat rudders and props, this redneck ain't gonna jump into that water again.
Down here we have alligators,cotton mouths and all kinda critters that will bite or suck your blood,we even have a little critter that will bite and crawl thru a tent mesh screen, the are called NO SEE UM'S,for real.
But we don't have nuttin' that will eat the balls off a brass monkey.......boat dr

maybe that's it....
hmm.

not sure about the pcv valve. i will have to check. where is that located? but i do have a breather piped to the flame arrestor.

so, i might as well post all my concerns on this thread....

i have been reading about crankcase pressure and dipsticks popping out. after being on the lake and then checking the oil afterwards my dipstick is always just popped out a tad bit. i've never seen any oil around the dipstick area so i don't think it's blowing oil. also, the oil always looks good and not milky. should i have concerns?

when i say it pops up, it pop's up about a quarter inch, if that.

it's a 351 commander.

ps: i'm already addicted to this site.

actually, i just found this post:::




1. Get a six pack of beer and start drinking. What else matters?




2. Remove rear seat.
3. Remove rear panel.
4. Remove rear floor board (might require removal of doghouse.
5. Remove saftey wire at top of rudder post/tiller arm.
5a. Support rudder from below (do not let it drop).
6. Remove bolt from top of rudder post.
7. Loosen clamping bolt on tiller arm.
8. Lift tiller arm up off of rudder post.
9. Remove rudder from below. may require jacking boat off of trailer bunks so rudder clears prop gaurd, if so equiped.

If replacing/removing rudder port, simply remove nuts from bilge side (4 ea.) and work rudder out from below...it will be stuck with sealant. If PO used 3M 5200, you can cuss him now and go get the twelve pack....you will need it.
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I don't think I need to remove the port? just drop the rudder out right? curious to see how that seals in there and how to put it back in so that it doesn't leak.


-phil

For you to do it, would be a couple hundred bucks I'm guessing maybe even less depending where you get the rudder from. If you're even the slightest bit mechanically inclined and have some pretty basic tools, you should be able to do that easy. For a shop to replace it I would think it would run into about 500-600 bucks or better.

Phos, I'm surprised that you aren't having any steering issues like pulling to the right or left. I would be a little hesitant to start filing or grinding that. I have read (but I certainly don't know for sure) that grinding rudders can cause pretty significant drivability issues when not done right. I think there are rudders out there that are "tunable" but I haven't had any experience with them nor know anybody that has really played with them. It's kinda like tuning the fin on a slalom ski. Can make the ski perform completely different with very little movement. I agree with Pete that I've never seen erosion like that before. I would get that replaced.

The boat is an 1982 American Skier. It has never been used in salt per the previous owner who lives in Wisconsin. There isn't any damage to the prop or drive shaft from what I can tell. The tranny is smooth as butter and there are no vibrations. The engine has 620hrs.

I'm sure this is the original rudder...

Just got in from a LONG day on the boat. 9:0AM until 11:00PM.

thanks,