Through-Hull Exhaust Tips - How to Seal

Why would you need such a long rope???

No tubes, in fact I've yet to pull a skier with it, though my nephew wants to give it a try when I get it back in the water. Just a fun project to work on, for some reason I enjoy the jet drives.

Yes, The 5200 will break down with some heat - Not enough to harm the glass or the gel. I happen to like and have mentioned the hot wire method. Since it is a item that you will not be removing on a regular basis, I feel the security of the 5200 seal is the way to go.

You mentioning the jet doesn't bother me as long as you're not using it to pull tubes!!!

Well, This will be about the 5th time I've said it but I really hate silicone. It doesn't stick to anything including itself! The only place it works is when it's compressed between two surfaces.

On older boats, where the exhaust pipe and the flange are 2 pieces, the inside of the flange of the ID will have a chamfer on it. The hole in the hull will also be chamfered on the outside. These chamfers were there to hold flax packing just like you put in the stuffing box on the prop shaft and rudder. The idea being that the flange will compress the flax around the pipe but still allow any movement of the pipe due to heat expansion.

If you don't want to put the packing back in, I would use 5200 to seal it and not the GD silicone!!