Anyone with a duct-u-lator?

8122- good luck finding a residential outfit that will make standing slips..btw i shoulda cleared this up earlier..i dont mess with residential except on the side..im a local 33 sheet metal worker, so i i too am not to fond of scabs..i mean hacks either..i have put wirsbo in the residential houses when people wanted it..other than that i leave it up to the pipefitters/plumbers..seems like you know your sh*t?...are you in the trades?..if not im impressed with your knowledge

I like the look of the warmboard and I am having my new boiler sized to cover an addition that will have a new 26x20 den. I would rather use a product like this instead of having the ugly baseboard heat. Does anyone know if I can use this in this one room while the rest of the house is baseboard?

The golden rule of pnuematics (according to programmable digital control guys) -

Pneumatics don't suck, they blow.

ryanandrews wrote: basically its cheaper to go forced air if you want cooling also.

Ryan, I'm glad that you found the information informative. I'd hate to see someone in your field not knowing the systems that are available or what is possible.

You must have missed my post on this radiant going in northern Wisconsin and not needing AC. Even without AC, you can't compare radiant to forced air unless you add zoning to the forced air. This, as you know adds high end controls for modulated dampering plus a high end furnace with variable speed blower and a modulated burner. (now we're talking getting Steve in with his TAC controls and I know he's expensive!!!). The bottom line after adding that to forced air is radiant is very cost effective. I know that with rising oil costs that the plastic tubing cost has gone up but how about steel costs for ducting!

I'm looking forward to enjoying radient heat and my retirement!
Each zone with independent temp control.
No more cold feet.
Nice even heat with no cold corners.
No more drafts.
No blower noise.
No lost space for duct chases or soffits.
No "oil canning" of ducting because a hacker on the ductwork doesn't know what a standing S cleat is.
No improperly sized ducting because the hacker didn't know how to size them and ends up setting the blower on high hoping to get air through them.
Adding to the hackers air flow problem 0 radius plenums, hard bend elbows, 0 inside radius elbows, duct T taps without turning vanes, high angle offsets and my favorite returns not equaling supplies.
No over sizing furnace BTU's causing short cycling then adusting the anticipator setting that causes large temp differentials.

Hopefully you will have the opportunity to install a whole hose radient in the near future.

Raindog,yeah I've heard of Johson controls before.The hospital that I work at is located in Edgewood,Kentucky.Its about 10 minutes south of Cincinnati,Ohio.I've worked there for over 14 years.Two other guys plus myself do all the HVAC work in a million square foot building.That doesn't include of of the out builings that were responsilbe for also,which take up alot of time.

8122- learn something everyday...just noticed a few of your post..havent been on here in a while..basically its cheaper to go forced air if you want cooling also..if not radiant and boiler systems are a good look also..all depends on what you want and want to spend i guess..

JoeinNY wrote: What other HVAC industry lurkers do we have out there?

I own (with a partner) a building automation system contracting company. While we do fully integrated systems (security, access, digital surveillance, lighting, HVAC), we primarily design/build turnkey enterprise class HVAC control systems.

Ryan Andrews, Email me through my profile if you want. I noticed that you are keeping your email address private and I respect that.

Brad, You may have missed it when I mentioned not wanting to use the below floor method. It is not the most efficient method and it is rather labor intensive to install the tubing and aluminum plates/tracks. This is the Warmboard that I mentioned that takes the place of the subfloor.



Here's more on the Warmboard:Warmboard web site


You are correct regarding the other items adding up! I've gone through the floor plan a couple times to see about reducing some of the zones. It's tough because you really want all the rooms separate!

Edit, quote from Warmboard:
Floor Warming vs. Floor Heating

"Floor warming is sometimes used in small areas such as bathrooms for the sole purpose of warming your feet when you get out of the shower. This is usually done electrically by embedding resistive wires or mats in the setting materials under the tile. This method is rarely the primary heat source of a home.

Floor heating refers to radiant systems that are installed throughout most or all of the floor area of the home. Almost any modern well-built home, regardless of climate, can be comfortably heated with a radiant floor heating system as its sole heat source. In fact, a Warmboard system is the primary heating system for several buildings at the U.S. Research Station in Antarctica."

it really looks like he's painting his toe nails in the picture, probably to match those Bermuda's

Hollywood wrote: Pete, I was only teasing the man. He's actually quite the gearhead nowadays. We couldn't get him in a foot line or shot ski line at the P.P. until he had that '80 running "just right".

HW, I don't see any tools in his hands in the picture. Is this a new technique of starring at the engine and wishing it runs better?

Pete, I was only teasing the man. He's actually quite the gearhead nowadays. We couldn't get him in a foot line or shot ski line at the P.P. until he had that '80 running "just right".

Guys, Thanks for the input as it is appreciated.
I've had a few years to do a lot of research plus I do have a friend in HVAC so I really feel I'm making a sound decision. I'm going with in floor. This is on my little lake house in northern Wisconsin that will be getting a total remodel and major add on for my retirement house. I do not need AC as there typically are only 2 or 3 days a summer when its needed. The evenness and the comfort of in floor is the major factor. Without the need for ductwork and the use of Warmboard (the sub floor replacement) in floor really isn't that costly. The big item is the condensing boiler and the second are the pumps/flow zone controls. I did look into geothermal with the hydronic but with our cooler climate, plus all the trees my only option was some fairly deep extraction and injection wells. 3 years ago I went through getting a new water well and at $6000 did not want to add 2 more.(we also have some rather strict regs on process water well location to potable water wells) I love the idea but do not want to get into a overly complicated system in the north woods with the only repairman who understands it is 150 miles away!!

HW, don't come down on Jbear too much. He does do his own oil changes so that's a lot better than some!

Hollywood, it took me a minute but i busted out laughing, I havn't laughed that hard in a while.
Eric

[QUOTE=bmiller] If you are going to stay at that house for a long period of time,you may think of going geothermal.Its alot up front in terms of money,but you will recover your money pretty quick.It also depends on where you live.[QUOTE]

Now we have someone talking sense, fossils are only going to be getting more expensive. The future is coming. If I was building a new house I would be drilling geothermal wells. If I was planning a new development I would install community wells/ponds..

Love in floor radiant heat btw, especially for a garage, built my brother in law a woodstove boiler and an in floor system for his workshop and it is awesome.