back filling with anitfreeze

sorry about the confusion. the "93" pcm manual says to have the bio grade freeze, which is why i used the pink stuff. my boat is stored in my garage near pittsburgh so too cold isn't a problem. my previous boats i backed with zerex but with the new boat i wanted to follow the man.

I thought you'd recognize the name. It's a dart board. Winmau Blade 3

Did anyone see the Winmau Blade 3 hanging in my shop?

79nautique wrote: I would lose to you in darts I don't recall playing any darts at all I obviously was drunk

Yes you did; yes you did; yes you were.

bk_broiler wrote: are you implying this can be done without the engine started?

Are you asking if the the engine can be filled with antifreeze without being started? Of course! Read the PCM manual, or this thread on how to drain the engine, and my post above on how to backfill.

schiffsnautique wrote: sorry the manual says non-toxic food-grade anti-freeze. why do they say to mix 50/50? why even mix other than the cost of anti-freeze doubles? in the past i've used the green stuff with my other boat but this year i went with the biodegradable stuff due to i get the boat prepped in the driveway everyspring and didn't feel like trying to catch all of the green stuff.

I think your question was only indirectly answered. Traditional anti-freeze actually provides less freeze protection when undiluted. By design, it provides greater freeze protection when diluted 50/50 with water. I am not sure what the chemical composition/reaction is, but I know it to be true.

The RV antifreeze, whatever color it might be, is not chemically set up to be diluted, and provides best protection when undiluted.
As it is biodegradable, I'm guessing it is water soluble, but, again, I don't know the chemical composition or reactions. BKH

the bio/non-toxic stuff is in several different colors depends on the level of protection you want, but most of it is not mixed with water. All of the toxic stuff is. Me personally I didn't like the pink stuff after I read the label that's why I opted for the other colored stuff west marine sold. And If you live further North than Indiana I wouldn't be using the pink stuff if you store your boat outside during the winter.

Hollywood blowing, well I guess he just sticks to what he does best.

Hollywood wrote: On the '88 I got about 2 3/4 gallons in before it stopped in the hose. Take off the funnel, cup your hand around the hose and blow.

It figures you would prefer this method.

If you work the hose up and down (another one of your specialties) the A/F will work its way in.

M3Fan wrote: TRBenj wrote: Theyre talking about the toxic, conventional (green) antifreeze, not the RV/marine (biodegradable) antifreeze, which is red/pink Keep in mind that this is generally, but not always the rule. The AF in my truck is pink and the biodegradable Propelyne Glycol AF in my boat is green! The key is PG verses EG. I always remember this by thinking along the lines of PG Rating (in movies) = safer for the kids!

Youre right- both GM and Toyota have special coolants that are red/pink (which I presume to be toxic).

Joel, you used the Sierra antifreeze, right? Not sure how it compares to the regular RV stuff, but they never say its non-toxic or biodegradable- they just say its "less toxic than the EG based antifreeze."

TRBenj wrote: Theyre talking about the toxic, conventional (green) antifreeze, not the RV/marine (biodegradable) antifreeze, which is red/pink

Keep in mind that this is generally, but not always the rule. The AF in my truck is pink and the biodegradable Propelyne Glycol AF in my boat is green! The key is PG verses EG. I always remember this by thinking along the lines of PG Rating (in movies) = safer for the kids!

sorry the manual says non-toxic food-grade anti-freeze. why do they say to mix 50/50? why even mix other than the cost of anti-freeze doubles? in the past i've used the green stuff with my other boat but this year i went with the biodegradable stuff due to i get the boat prepped in the driveway everyspring and didn't feel like trying to catch all of the green stuff.

thanks alot TRBenj 87BFN owner. very simple to do and understand once i had an illustration. agreed. pcm never speaks about operating temps or thermostat needed to be open to backfill. i had a local marine tech show me how to backfill my wellcraft although now i realized he wasn't as methodic as i like to be. he showed me basically the same way however never told me to drain the exhaust mainfolds. i feel better, excited, and comfortable to repeat this process anytime thanks to you guys. one last question......... why does PCM tell you to backfill with 50 bio/rv anti-freeze and 50 water????????

The block fills first, doesn't not matter if the t-stat is open or not. The block has to get full before the liquid can be heated to make the t-stat open. Once the block is full if the t-stat has not opened yet it will bypass all fluids to the exhaust. That is why you have to drain the block and manifolds before doing it.

wow. so many different ways to winterize..after opening the pitcocks manifold drains i dump 4 gallons of prestone antifreeze in two 5 gal buckets mix with water..take the inlet hose and put a funnel in it..fire her up let it suck it up, when i see it coming out the exhaust shut it down while fogging the carb for a few seconds..i dont remove the thermostat or the impeller..i know this works as well as several neighbors use this method..why remove a thermoste when you can hook up a water supple and let it get to operating temps..if you got the green stuff coming out the back your fine..