Aluminum Stringers

I have done a lot of research on this site regarding stringer replacement and what I have decerned is that you can cut out the old ones and glass in new wood, or cut out the center of the stringers and pour in new ones.

I have a thought on aluminum stringers and wanted some of your opinions on the subject before I go for it.

Why couldn't I take aluminum channel stock, slide it over the old stringer, through bolt it in, and glass over this assembly? Wouldn't that give a stringer system that would last forever and be stronger than stock? Thanks for any and all thoughts on this subject!

Doc, youre presuming that he would be adding aluminum channel to avoid replacing rotten stringers. If thats the case, then I agree that its not an ideal solution.

Barry, using aluminum over the stringers isnt a bad idea- Correct Craft started installing aluminum engine cradles in '89 or '90, and they work great. I believe its a better/stronger design than bolting the motormounts down from the top of the stringers.

That being said, strength isnt necessarily the problem when it comes to stringer replacement. Adding the aluminum over wood wouldnt help solve the problem of the rotting structure underneath. Im not sure how well epoxy would stick to aluminum, which might be a consideration as well.

I bet is his 68 San Juan.

boat dr wrote: Do it right or not at all......boat dr

Let's hear it doc...what's the right way?

Tim, my '88 has the aliminum cradle.

Pete, I just talked to another guy who said to go back with fir; he gave me a number of the reasons you have and he does it for a living!

Start from scratch,remove and replace one stringer at a time. Somewhere else on here the owner removed all and did not support the hull, MAJOR PROBLEMO.
Hull removed from trailer,and properly supported the full length of stringers.Old material removed to hull and sanded to clean glass.
New stringers cut and formed, sounds easy,but is very time consuming the fit is to be correct and the integrity is "lost"
West System is my tool of choice, but any good epoxy will suffice.Type of wood is also up for debate, fir, pine or red oak all have their place.My choice if done again will be a plywood composite mix,carbon fibre or kevlar intermixed with plys of Okeum...All sealed with generous amonts added to seal before the encapsulation with matt and rove.
Added to the perimeter is an all aluminum engine mount girdle.But this cannot be an after thought,stringer height will have to be reduced for engine to be at original elevation.
Ask how I know about this last step and what plans are needed before the girdle is fabricated?????
The next stringer job will go a little faster, the more you do the less mistakes you make.
This is not to say MY WAY is correct , just this is how I would do it again.....................Boat dr

If you are going to use the Doc's build up method, I would like to recommend against the Okume. Meranti would be my choice. Even though it would be epoxied together, the Okume is the least rot resistant of the "mahogany family". If you can't find anything besides the Okume, then use a max thickness of 1/8" and plenty of epoxy.

Of coarse knowing Greg, he'll use something like tulip wood!!!!

tulip wood? or is that tulips on some wood?
Pete you have to start thinking like a deviate like myself and a few others on the site, i am a result of to many fiberglass fumes, so i have an excuse

JoeinNY wrote: Present company excluded I wouldnt necessarily take the word of someone who does it for a living as gospel, way to many fiberglass fumes over the years...

Joe, I'm not taking anyone's word so-to-speak. I'm asking questions and comparing answers. On 1 hand, wood may rot someday, but the wood in my boat could've been sealed better. On the other hand, a composite won't ever rot, but I'm not so familiar with that material.

BuffaloBFN wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Of coarse knowing Greg, he'll use something like tulip wood!!!! Now Pete, Tulipwood belongs where it can be seen! LOL Here's a sample for Eric...the cowcatcher is tulipwood.

And the boiler is Purpleheart, The sides thingys are Padauk(sp), the chassis is oak, the stripe in the body is cherry, the wheels maybe walnut? How'd I do?

Greg, one of my friends bought us a teak carved eagle as a gift from Bali which is in my office, he paid 75 bucks for it, it stands about 3 feet tall, if i saw it here somewhere for sale i would think you could get at least 2K for it, it is beautiful, he had 2 containers shipped back here full of teak carvings, furniture and so on,
things must be real cheap over there

81nautique wrote: And the boiler is Purpleheart, The sides thingys are Padauk(sp), the chassis is oak, the stripe in the body is cherry, the wheels maybe walnut? How'd I do?

Alan, You are getting closer to that wood boat every day! Very good!!

i am picture savy, i think you mean picture lazy, i"ll snap a shot, the store he had we went out of business and he sold everything for .10 on the dollar, my brother ended up with garden benches, book cases and a ton of other stuff, i was on vacation during the auction so i didnt get a chance to buy any of it. 2 weeks before the auction hios wife was trying to sell him a couch set for 2500.00 and he ended up getting it at the auction for 160.00 (it was all high end stuff)

81nautique wrote: Has anyone here used a built up stringer as opposed to 2x lumber? Certainly sounds stronger and beats trying to find that perfect piece of straight grain fir if there is any of that left, any delam issues.   How about bolting down into it on a boat without a cradle, any splitting? I've got atleast one maybe 2 stringer projects looming in the near future.

Alan, I have not for stringers because I to this day have always been lucky with finding nice fir. I have on other projects and it is a very strong method. I was just at a Blackhawk chapter tech seminar and the host had just finished a sailbot mast. 3 Layers of Siberian Larch and 2 carbon fiber. No splitting and will lag bolt very nice with proper size pilot holes (due to the epoxy, the laminated is harder in spots so the pilots are a little larger - shank clearance too) Great method but it's less work if you can find the nice fir. I'm sure you know to go to the local lumber yard for the fir rather than one of the "Home Depots"!!!!

Thanks for all of the input. I am going to try and load an image to give yall a detailed look at the stringer system of the San Juan.

Noah used wood, he just kept it dry, the key word here is aftercare, the way its going with the gas prices 40 or 50 years???