Rudder wear |
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Author | |
phospher
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 557 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I haven't used a battery charger yet. But I just bought the boat...
|
|
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The wear is typical of saltwater corrosion, it could be concentrated in that one spot simply because it was a current beween the engine (connected through the shaft to the prop) and rudder that facilitated it or because the mechanical interaction of the prop wash at that point was good at removing oxidation and leaving a new layer behind to oxidize. if you had a zinc on your shaft it would be an egg shaped bulge. Zincs that are on the rudder are usually rounded disks that are bolted through the rudder about where your corrosion is the worst. Nibral or not in salt water with no zincs that kind of corrosion is imminent with zincs its still inevitable but slower. In fairly neutral freshwater zincs don't hurt but are rarely needed.
|
|
phospher
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 557 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
ok, who thinks that i NEED to replace my rudder this year. the boat seems to perform fine no vibrations or anything i just don't want it to snap while my wife is driving the boat. what do you think. this rudder is going to cost me 400 bones so obviously i would rather not replace it if i don't have to.
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Phil, I had to reread the thread!! I didn't pick up anyone saying you really need to put a new rudder on it and I will agree. As long as you maintain control of the boat you're ok.
One thing you should consider if you haven't done anything is to recondition the swim platform. Get the varnish or poly off it. Nether will stick to teak as you can see in your picture. Clean it up and put a good synthetic teak oil on it. Edit: I just got the mail and the spring flier from West Marine came. They are having a sale on gel repair kits, buffing compounds and waxes!! Red is a tough color to keep from fading! |
|
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I too had to reread the thread, I would highly doubt the rudder is ever going to break, although I would lay off the power slides for good measure. I wouldnt even bother to grind on it if you are currently happy with the way the boat drives, likely to do more harm than good.
|
|
phospher
Gold Member Joined: July-19-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 557 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
cool. you guys are great. thanks for re-reading this long ass thread. i think i'll use it again this year then. as far as the swim deck. i actually did refinish it. i sanded it down by hand (that took a long time) and then applied teak oil. it came out really good. i also used rubbing compound on the transom and the deck and it came out pretty good. i still need to put some elbow grease into her though... tough work.
let me pose another question. i'm planning on doing a tune up this spring that includes, -new plugs -new wires -new raw water impeller -new rotor and cap who is in the milwaukee area, who wants to drink beer and get fed all day while they help me set timing? i've never set timing nor do i have the tools to do it. i'm in slinger, just north west of milwaukee. |
|
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |