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    Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:59am
got my parts from skidim today.

new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, rw impeller, and new hour meter.

now i just need to try and figure out how to change out the cap and rotor without changing the timing. i've never replaced a distributor before.

should be good for the boat since it hasn't been done since 2004. the old wires were looking pretty crappy. going to pickup the boat out of storage on the 12th.

just can't wait to get back out on the lake.. still have a bit of time though being in Wisconsin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 10:08am

Don't pull that distributor out, there's no need to with just a cap and rotor change. Don't make extra work for yourself. It should fire right up after you put the new pieces on but you'll still need to check the timing, should be pretty close though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 10:14am
well if the clamp for the base isn't tight then you can change the timing so check and make sure it's tight just incase.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 12:44pm
81nautique, i'm confused. what do you mean don't pull the distributor out? are you telling me not to replace the distributor cap? i meant that i would just replace the cap and rotor etc...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 12:50pm
Originally posted by phospher phospher wrote:

i'm confused. what do you mean don't pull the distributor out? are you telling me not to replace the distributor cap? i meant that i would just replace the cap and rotor etc...

If thats all you meant, then no worries When you said you had "never replaced a distributor before" that implied you planned to remove the entire distributor from the engine, which is not necessary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 12:53pm
ahh, my bad. that is my lack of knowledge speaking.

thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:02pm
Personally I label all of the wires with masking tape and numbers before I take them off the cap. Then I put the new cap/rotor on and put the wires back onto the cap according to my numbered labels. That's the most idiot-proof way of doing it- no need to break out the firing order diagram just to change a cap and rotor. For the wires, I replace them one at a time to preserve the firing order.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:11pm
Joel I wouldn't go to all of that trouble all you have to do is locate the indexing boss on the base of the old cap, pull the wire directly above it then install it in the same position on the new cap and then go one at a time in a clockwise or counter clock wise direction one wire at a time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:20pm
how about this?

-pull the cap with all the wires still on

-then install the new cap and rotor in the same position,

-then hold the old cap with all the wires on it (to orientate the new one) and install the wires in the same position?

-finally, install one plug wire at a time to make sure i keep the same order.

does that make sense?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:25pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Joel I wouldn't go to all of that trouble all you have to do is locate the indexing boss on the base of the old cap, pull the wire directly above it then install it in the same position on the new cap and then go one at a time in a clockwise or counter clock wise direction one wire at a time.


That's a good idea too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:25pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Joel I wouldn't go to all of that trouble all you have to do is locate the indexing boss on the base of the old cap, pull the wire directly above it then install it in the same position on the new cap and then go one at a time in a clockwise or counter clock wise direction one wire at a time.


Chris, His next question is going to be "What's the indexing boss". What some can do blindfolded is uncharted waters for others. The labeling is over kill for some and just a good precaution for others. If it's his first time under the hood I would follow Joel's advice.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:28pm
so true 81nautique.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:33pm
AALLEN, if you do not mark both the plug wires and the NEW CAP how will this help. With this said he will have to find the index mark to properly align the old and new cap,then label both wires and the cap............Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:43pm
Originally posted by phospher phospher wrote:

how about this?

-pull the cap with all the wires still on

-then install the new cap and rotor in the same position,

-then hold the old cap with all the wires on it (to orientate the new one) and install the wires in the same position?

-finally, install one plug wire at a time to make sure i keep the same order.

does that make sense?


that's basicly the same thing but if you don't locate the indexing feature of the cap you can get the wires shifted over one or two towers which isn't a big deal but you will have to go back and retime it and it's going to be a little harder to start the first time.

Also the rotor can not be installed backwards as it is indexed as well and for you to install it wrong then you are forcing it on and will break the rotor in the process.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:54pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

AALLEN, if you do not mark both the plug wires and the NEW CAP how will this help. With this said he will have to find the index mark to properly align the old and new cap,then label both wires and the cap............Boat dr


I think you're just being arguementative BBillly, I merely agreed that labeling his wires was going to be easier than the way a real mechanic like you would do it.    I just tried to stop him from pulling his distributor out and making a big mess of it. I'll let you take over now.

ALAN

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 1:57pm
i'm starting to get a better picture in my head of this....

what is the index mark and how do i make sure i keep the old and new cap aligned? from my understanding keeping these marks lined up will keep my timing the same.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:01pm
it's molded feature on the base of the cap, a square block most of the time that is raised, Should be real easy to see when you are looking into the inside of the cap. And then on the base of the dist there is a pocket it sits in, again pretty easy to see. Sometimes you can actually see the two with the cap installed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:04pm
I label them clockwise, just 1-8, then take them off. I try to keep in mind that the #1 labeled wire was in a certain spot, like 1 o'clock or noon or whatever. Then I get the new cap/rotor on, start at that same position (1 o'clock/noon/whatever) and put the wires back on in order. It's no-fail and a piece of cake. I do the same on the plug-side of the wires if I'm taking more than one plug out at once- dead simple and fail-safe. Just to clarify- I don't use any index mark on the cap. I just swap the caps and put the wires back on in order, starting at the same point as the #1 wire was before I took it off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:14pm
will the fast way is pull one wire, remember it's location, 1-2-3 o'clock what ever, remove the old cap put on the new one, install that one wire that is loose, then either go CCW or CW one wire at a time done in about two minutes, just be sure to push on the wire and not the boot as it may not seat all of the way by pushing on the boot. It's actually a good idea to slip the boots back a little before install it in the cap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:24pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

AALLEN, if you do not mark both the plug wires and the NEW CAP how will this help. With this said he will have to find the index mark to properly align the old and new cap,then label both wires and the cap............Boat dr


I think you're just being arguementative BBillly,   the way a real mechanic like you would do it.      I'll let you take over now.

ALAN



I am not a real mechanic, but i try real hard to do things correctly.
As far as the cap and wires , I MARK THEM BOTH, that way I do not rely on memory.Takes a little time but it solves a lot of problems later..........Billy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:31pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

will the fast way is pull one wire, remember it's location, 1-2-3 o'clock what ever, remove the old cap put on the new one, install that one wire that is loose, then either go CCW or CW one wire at a time done in about two minutes, just be sure to push on the wire and not the boot as it may not seat all of the way by pushing on the boot. It's actually a good idea to slip the boots back a little before install it in the cap.




that makes good sense to me. i think i will try that. tell me, you have to be a moron to mess this up right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:32pm
Lot of talk about a distributor cap. If your wires are back in in the correct firing order, and starting on the correct cylinder, it's "correct" no matter how they got there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:36pm
let me ask another question, when i got my new raw water pump it came with a rubber O ring. when i removed my raw water pump for the winter last year i don't remember such an O ring. i do remember another type seal that was more of a gasket type. i compared the two impellers and they are in fact the same exact ones. what do you make of that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:54pm
Phil, if you unlock the dist cap without taking any wires off, you'll see that it will only go back on 1 way. This will highlite where and what the index point is. Once you've done it once, you'll be a pro.

FWIW-you guys wouldn't believe the crazy stuff I've labeled...helps with brain cramps?!!? LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 2:57pm
You'll need the o-ring. There is a small groove it fits in. Someone else can explain it better, but you'll get air leaks and overheat w/o it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 3:04pm
well for years when we would do engine work we would just throw the nuts and bolts in a coffee can then sort them later and never did we not get the bolts back where they belonged, so if you need to take pictures, labels or what ever method you want work within your abilities, but when you need to get teh job done and out the door you don't have time to label and take pictures, but not everyone can retain a picture in their mind for long periods of time or figure out that bolts too long or too short to go in that spot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 3:51pm
i think you guys have all cleared this up pretty good for me. i'll change it out on the 12th and report back with any questions/issues.


thanks guys i really appreciate all the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by phospher phospher wrote:

i think you guys have all cleared this up pretty good for me. i'll change it out on the 12th and report back with any questions/issues.


thanks guys i really appreciate all the help.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 1:24am
To confusing for me....think I'll just buy some beer and pull the boat over to Eddie's or MM's bro Keith.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phospher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-05-2008 at 11:01pm
ok,

i installed plugs, cap, and rotor. took her to the lake and tried to start it up. nothing wouldn't even pop. needless to say i was dissapointed.

so when i got home i took out a spark plug and turned it over for a few seconds and i'm not seeing any spark on the plug. now how in the hell did i mess that up. it seemed pretty straight forward when i replaced the cap and i know i put all the plugs back on in the right order.   what should my next step be?

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