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i need rudder help... |
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Booty 
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Joined: July-30-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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 Topic: i need rudder help...Posted: August-15-2008 at 10:13pm |
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I just dropped my rudder , I unbolted the prop gaurd to drop it down and lowered the tounge of the trailer down to raise the rear of the boat with the front wheel jack , and yes have someone catch the rudder when it drops out. if it is welded use a floor jack to raise boat. If not welded replace nuts and bolts with grade 5 or even better grade 8 I use grade 8 on everything
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Booty
82,2001 82,2001 |
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DrCC
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Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
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Posted: August-15-2008 at 8:43pm |
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74 S N, 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant made by 3M All under water hardware should be installed with this stuff. Boatlife sealant will wash out in 3 years maybe less.
Lets say you take out the 4 bolts to your rudder log, and put them back in dry with no sealer, water will leak right around the bolts no matter how tight you get them. AT PS: When I bought my 74 Nautique in 2004, every thing was leaking, except for the fins and drain plug fitting. Removed everything under water, cleaned and resealed with 3M. Use a lot, don't get it in your hair, if you do, cleans up with paint thinner. A dry bilge is a happy bilge. |
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74SkiNautique
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Joined: July-29-2008 Location: Lynchburg, VA Status: Offline Points: 228 |
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Posted: August-14-2008 at 11:16pm |
Whats up with the 5200 stuff? I saw it on skidim? Whats all the hoopla about it? |
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74SkiNautique
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redmondschmidts
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Joined: April-18-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Posted: April-21-2007 at 10:14pm |
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Yes. That link looks like a good bet. Thanks very much for sharing!
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Homelake: Sammamish
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The Lake
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Joined: May-13-2005 Location: Lk Winnebago MO Status: Offline Points: 1157 |
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Posted: April-21-2007 at 9:00pm |
Try here: Rudder Parts Chuck |
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redmondschmidts
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Posted: April-21-2007 at 5:31pm |
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Installed the grease fitting today w/no problems, re-packed the rudder and re-assembled the rig. However, when I tightened the compression nut, I noticed it has a vertical crack! I think the prior owner must have done it when cranking it down so tight. I think it will still work ok, but does anyone have any ideas where I might find a replacement?
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Homelake: Sammamish
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redmondschmidts
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Posted: April-20-2007 at 11:14pm |
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Great advice. I picked up the rope packing and the grease fitting. Tomorrow I'll drill, tap and re-assemble. Then I hope not to have to mess with this for another 31 years
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Darrel
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Posted: April-18-2007 at 4:12pm |
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I tapped a grease fitting into my rudder port last year. Its worked great, no problems.
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Barracuda
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Joined: November-17-2003 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 998 |
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Posted: April-18-2007 at 4:06pm |
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Here's a link to skidim packings
I like to cut the rope packing into lengths (4 or 5) that will go around the shaft without overlapping at the ends. Then make sure you don't line up the joints- as opposed to spiraling the rope packing in one continuous peice.. The grease fitting is a neat idea- though you may need to replace the entire rudder port with a dripless style- |
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Mark Mel
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Posted: April-18-2007 at 12:47pm |
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I think it's just wax rope packing.
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redmondschmidts
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Posted: April-18-2007 at 12:27pm |
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I am glad to see this thread since I am in the process of fixing my steering on my 76 Ski Nautique. I've dropped the rudder (found the grease had turned to goop)and am preparing to re-pack the shaft, having cleaned it up.
Am thinking about drilling and tapping the rudder housing to install a grease point, but am really wondering if anyone knows where I can get a replacement for the wax seal. The old one was over-tightened by the last owner (which I think is why the steering cable is wracked) and I need to replace it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. |
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Mark Mel
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Posted: April-17-2007 at 10:55am |
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Ah, I don't have a guard so I didn't even think of that. :)
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79nautique
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Posted: April-16-2007 at 5:01pm |
the guard is going to tilt with the trailer. waiste of time doing that. |
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Mark Mel
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Posted: April-16-2007 at 11:32am |
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May be a silly question but you did drop the front of the boat first, right?
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acedizzle916
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Posted: April-14-2007 at 2:27pm |
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I just went down to a shop and rented an engine hoist for $25 to lift the back of the boat up. working so far. thx :)
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Darrel
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 8:38pm |
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place your jack as far back and as close to directly under the stern that you can. Use the lowest point and use the block and towel to protect gel and so that it doesnt slip. Your boat weighs about 2400 pounds so you would need more friends to move it back.
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acedizzle916
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 7:54pm |
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i dont have overhead lifting capability.. is there any specific point at the tail end i should use? and would a block of wood and a beach towel do ok for pretecting the gel coat?
a friend told me that i should just get 3 or 4 people together and try to push the boat back on the trailer a couple inches so that the rudder will not hit the prop guard. is that a good or bad idea? and are we going to be able to slide it back on the trailer or is it too heavy? |
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Darrel
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 7:40pm |
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Ace, block the wheels and jack it up at the tail end. Put something between the jack and the gelcoat to protect it. If you have overhead lifting capability you can use the lifting rings.
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acedizzle916
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 7:12pm |
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well i got the rudder off fine but i don't have anough room underneath the trailer to drop the rudder out of the boat so i'm going to have to jack the boat up off the trailer a little bit. can someone tell me are there certain lift points or somthing that i need to use? im afraid of damaging the bottom of my boat.
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Darrel
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 5:41pm |
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there should be safety wire on the bolt that holds the tiller arm on.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 2:42pm |
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Don't forget to reseal the 4 bolts with some 5200.
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acedizzle916
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:53pm |
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ok cool! thats what i was trying to do but that bolt didn't want to budge, i guess i'll just find a longer wrench and put some muscle into it..hahah. thanks very much for your help :)
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TRBenj
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:46pm |
Yes. |
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acedizzle916
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:39pm |
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well thats good to know. how do i remove the tiller arm? do i remove the bolt on the very top?
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TRBenj
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:38pm |
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No need to remove the rudder housing- you can put those 4 bolts back in. If you remove the tiller arm, the rudder will drop right out. It good to have a helper hold the rudder so it doesnt drop on the ground.
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acedizzle916
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:36pm |
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i guess i should also mention, its an 83 ski nautique :)
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acedizzle916
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Posted: April-12-2007 at 1:34pm |
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So my strut was worn out and nobody in town wanted to press a new bushing into it for me so i bought a new strut for almost $400, then realized that the old strut was so worn that it damaged the drive shaft, so i spent another $300+ on a new drive shaft. now to install the new drive shaft i have to remove the rudder, and for the life of me i can't figure out how to do that.
i removed the four bolts that come up through the bottom of the boat and tried loosening everything i could but i'm stuck i don't know where to go from here, can anyone help me out? |
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8122pbrainard wrote: