Prop puller?

You need to have a pulled otherwise you will damage your shaft. I just bought one off Ebay for $50.00 shipped. The guy was really nice and shipped it fast. I think he makes them or something so it was cheaper. I popped my prop off no problem. If you need some to fix your prop, check this guy out.. He is awesome, very straight forward guy. He take any prop you have and change the pitch of it.

http://www.marinepropellers.com/

Tommer
84' Nautique 2001

for those of you that have never pulled a prop, be sure to just loosen the nut ONLY a couple turns. it can be pretty violent when they come off.

follow the proper procedure on the re-install to make sure the prop is seated.

I know this is going to sound crazy but remember to lightly grease the shaft before you put the prop back on. This will make it alot easier to pull next time.

Thanks for all the great advice.

Any recommended nut-torque for the re-install?

There are no formal Torque specs. I agree with Toomer12 Tighten untol the prop reaches the mark you made without the key Then align the nut so you can get the cotter key in. Repplace the coter pin each time you replace the prop. Use a stainless pin. Why lose a $300 prop to save $2 on a pin.

I borrowed a BIG 3-prong gear puller from the "loan-a-tool" at the local cheap parts store we all hate. It worked GREAT!

I sent my 12X15RH1.0 to O.J. for repair with instructions for them to call me before they begin. Since I am turning that prop over 5200 RPM, I have some doubt that it is ACTUALLY 15 pitch. I have been advised that my 351 Commander 4V should not be able to turn that prop that fast, so it might have been re-pitched lower (or maybe my engine has more-than-stock power?).

I would also like to buy a new (re-conditioned) prop of the original size, but at this point, I'm not sure what the original size is.

I called Southeast CC, and asked them what the original size was They were really nice, but they seemed to be guessing - by the time I got off the phone they must have told me 3 or 4 different sizes that it could have been

I DO have a 1:1.

I have sent in the prop sizing inquiry form to Michagan Wheel. I'm waiting for their reply.

I have always been told to use a brass key at the prop end and a s/s key at the coupling end. This is to ensure that if something does go wrong you can shear the key.

I've been reading all the posts for pulling a prop - potentially a pain, but seems straight forward. How difficult/what's involved in reinstalling the prop with the key? Thanks

Looking from left to right: The end of the puller that "pulls" against the back of the prop is made from a 1" steel pipe cap. I ground a flat edge and welded it to the end of the cut down clamp. Then I cut out the cap so it would fit on the shaft between the prop and strut. I welded a 5/8" threaded adapter to the other end. You could weld two or three nuts together instead if you wanted. (be sure to put the bolt in first to keep them aligned). Use a 4" long 5/8" bolt. I put a nut on the inside of the clamp and left several threads open, then welded it to the bolt. That allows the nut to "wrap" around the end of the shaft so it will not slip off. I filleted all of the welds, buffed, and painted it. Workds great. All together cost less than $25.00.

thanx mucho for pix and info,anything to do with boats is too cool. just could not envision how to build one out of common stuff in my shop...........boat dr

Is it thin enough to work on 4 blades?

If you built for your bud, how about some of mech-challenged guys?

john

This is my homemade puller I made about 15 years ago after I had a problem with the "C" clamp style having too much spring in it. I do have a 4th bolt and the plates are drilled and tapped for it to be used with a 4 blade. It was up north and I just remembered to bring it home.