4160 carb??

Actually you are wrong.Mine is uglier That is the best news I have had all day! I have been waiting for almost 2 weeks and when I got it and cleaned the numbers I was pretty bummed! This thing looks and feels like it was outside a bit but I will clean and rebuild and see what happens.At least I have the pcm rebuild kit for it already.Thanks for the good news!

On the wiring diagram that I created, its a schematic. It shows the electrical connections- you can make the physical connections wherever its convenient.

The choke works with temperature. Its closed when cold and open when warm.

Kevin,
Here's the wiring diagram from the early PCM manual. Basically it's the same as the one Tim drew up but there may be some more details. A warning buzzer (did you actually find a buzzer?) would have been a add on by a PO in a 74. Sounds like you may want to consider re wiring the whole boat and I even think I recommended it before!!



The choke: Quite honestly I don't know how it works exactly! Internally there is a bimetallic spring (coil) that gets power from the ignition circuit. I've never really investigated why it will open up the choke butterfly as the engine warms up. I'm sure someone will chime in and explain it. Doc? I'd like to know too! Skidim does have the coil assemblies for about $35 if you need one.

LaurelLakeSkier wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: I've never really investigated why it will open up the choke butterfly as the engine warms up. I'm sure someone will chime in and explain it. The choke opening is not dependent on engine temperature with this system. It is just a matter of the time power is run through the choke coil (more time = more heat).   As an example, if you key the ignition up without even starting the engine, the choke will slowly begin to open after 30 seconds or so.... the length of time required to open the choke can be adjusted by turning the choke coil housing.

Thanks Mark! Well that sure is simple and logical!! Now I know.

Kevin,

I bought one of these from summit


#HLY-45-258
Holley Replacement Choke Caps
Choke Cap, with Gasket, Holley, 2300/ 4150/ 4160/ 4010/ 4011, Each $23.95

Works great.

Sam

alot of times they will go to the trans temp sending unit which normally has 215 degrees stamped on the side of the sending unit

i think if he added it, it would of been operational...what else could it of been from? I dont know, your right though, too early of a boat to have one

ok I found these directions for rebuilding and tuning a 4160 if anyone else needs.4160 rebuild instructions

I will take some pics of this buzzer and trace the wiring soon.I have been working 14 hours a day this last week repairing drill rigs. We have all rigs drilling for a windfarm from sunup to sundown 7 days a week and they are breaking a lot of equipment! I just got around to tearing down the carb last night! Long week! But plenty of money for boat parts :)

Hey pbrainard send me your email and I will send you the pics and you can post.This buzzer has two wire spades on it its a small metal box with the number 283 on it.One wire which I assume is ground goes to the fuel guage.The other is orange which is the same wire that was cut off in the engine box area.

kevin719 wrote: Hey pbrainard send me your email and I will send you the pics and you can post.This buzzer has two wire spades on it its a small metal box with the number 283 on it.One wire which I assume is ground goes to the fuel guage.The other is orange which is the same wire that was cut off in the engine box area.

Kevin,
My email is in my profile but here it is. pbrainard@wistool.com
Hopefully the firewall won't remove the pictures!!

A orange wire if original is the main positive feed to the dash! I asked about the other end meaning the end at the engine!!

The other end is in the wiring bundle in the motor box.It is orange and was cut off when I bought it. It does not have power but when I power it, that box buzzes pretty loud?? I also can tell you that the dual horns are not working properly so you may be right about the horn relay.I am thinking about pulling the wires under the dash and starting over after I finish the floor and carb. What do you think about the carb kits?I think that I will call holleys tech line tomorrow.

Kevin, Is there a third wire on it but just hidden in the picture? I know the cut wire is in the engine harness. Trace it when you get a chance and see where it goes.

I'm letting someone else answer the carb kit question. I'm not up on the carbs.

Pbrainard, I know that all of the guages are linked together but I will check to see if they are linked to this resistor. I bet that you are right.It will probably be a couple of days before I can check because I am out of town at the windmill farm repairing the rigs on site this week.I am starting to like this "green power" stuff!

talk about bringing a thread back from the brink of the dark ages    I think there are some threads on the newest and best alternative to the holley carbs here recently (quick fuel comes to mind)    you might check out those options too, but there really is nothing wrong with the good old holleys.   Reman vs Rebuilt can be significantly different.   is there a way you can find out what was done to it?    rebuild kits can be around 85 bucks retail, so if it is someone who just does this as a hobby, that might leave enough meat on the bone if you have to send in your core.   I think if you are questioning the quality, you might just have to step up for the real deal, but if your capable of doing your own rebuild in a year, still might be worth it.