Gel Coat Prep

This is what I would do with it. Keep in mind I never add text, simply delete or replace with asterisks.

sanity wrote: Mattresses lined up. Men lined up. f*** scheduled for 11 tomorrow. Beer in cooler, pulled pork all 6" coming tonight

Is she crying because it is only 6"???

She's really been serving some good ones up, but I'm not sure she's ready for it yet.

Mattresses lined up. Men lined up. Boat flip scheduled for 11 tomorrow.

Beer in cooler, pulled pork all ready for lunch.

6" of snow coming beginning tonight

sanity wrote: Good Morning, Pete! Speaking of chrome, is there anywhere recommended that I can send ex. dogbox handle to have rechromed?

Michelle, I havent priced out rechroming- but its my understanding that its very expensive. Ive found that *most* of the hardware on these boats (both old and new) is generic and can be found online or at West Marine. Bow lights, cleats, handles, hinges, gas fills, etc. can all be found for relatively cheap.

This one looks close- compare it to what youve got and see if you can match them up.

8122pbrainard wrote: Michelle, Don't get too carried away! Remember the original would have simply a "mill" finish which is sort of a "brushed" finish and certainly not a mirrored/chrome. Just need to keep you on the "original" track here!

Good Morning, Pete! Speaking of chrome, is there anywhere recommended that I can send ex. dogbox handle to have rechromed?

Chelle'

62 wood wrote: Hope this makes sense? btw, what did you send in for the gelcoat color match?

It's beginning to make sense. The cushions, I'm assuming were redone. There is not a flap that joins to the snaps. They are glued to the base, as well as the back. I haven't torn it apart yet. I pulled it out and tried to figure out how it was installed in the boat. The upholstry (believe it or not) is tan that has been painted - yes, painted black. On the top back of the seat there is a trace of wood approx 2", where it looks glued on. It looks like it was pulled off of "something" and a bit of wood came with it.There is black carpet still attached to the bottom of the seat. Disect time!

As for the color match, not yet. I have a call in to Don, the guy that is bringing his fancy camera and told him our plans to flip the boat this weekend. Too much holiday cheer? We still have to strip the bottom and I'm sure there will be a few minor repairs.

I'm excited and anxious about too many things. I feel like everything from here on in will be something that "stays" and it's uphill now!

I have been just about every color since I started the boat - red, white, black, clear...

I finished the rails up with 240 wet, used the wadding and the turtle wax that you recommended. I must be anal because I still want to buff them more.

Lastnight, I did a little more glassing on the stringers. Just a few areas that were tugging at me. See, anal. And I do enjoy doing fiberglass work. Everyone else thinks it's horrible. Maybe I like the tedius things.

I believe I have the mattresses covered. I put the word out yesterday. Everything is coming together.

Michelle

sanity wrote: Hey Steve, Beautiful boat! Is the rear seat attached to the hull top and bottom? Is there a wood strip anywhere to hold it secure? Yes, the rub rail surprised me. I have a polishing kit for my Dremel and I know it's small, but I want to try it out this week. I stripped the red paint off of everything else too and it's all ready to shine. Michelle

Thanks for the compliment on the boat...

As for the seats, The bases of the seats are one piece fiberglass...kinda in the shape of an old Dairy Queen bench.

The seat bottoms were glued to the bases.

The seat backs have 1/4" plywood backers behind the foam that extend down about 3" below what you can see of the upholstry. This extension tucks behind the bottom cushion and holds the bottom of the back in place.

There is a "flap" at the top of the backs, that originally would have the snaps, but now hide the velcro. This holds the top portion of the cushions in place, but still are easily removed to gain access to the gas tank area. Hope this makes sense?

As for polishing the rail, you might start with the wadding and chrome polish by hand and use an old white sock to buff it out. You may be surprised at these results.
Power buffing is definately quicker, but also can be messier. Plus you might need a larger pad than most dremels would have.

Make sure the rail is away from anything else when buffing it .. the black slurry from this process isnt fun to get off of most items...plus power buffing can sling it all over.


btw, what did you send in for the gelcoat color match?

Sanity- mattresses are a terific idea. I will try the local thrift store or Mattress Store when I'm ready.
It beats my idea of rolling it in a snowdriftLOL.
I would suggest you take lots of pictures when you flip it. Much easier on your back to be the photographer rather than the grunt! Did you get the "color photos to order the gel?

Hey Pete...I missed you until I read that last statement. Just kidding. I'm trying to keep it as original as possible except for the platform that will installed. And what I have will work for now, as the money will be spent on other Mustang needed items. And to think that in the back of my mind I was thinking "Pete will be pleased!"

Still researching where I will end up getting the gel. Rumor has it that there is a place in McKees Rocks (approx 30 minutes away) that carries gel coat. Haven't found out the name yet. We used to purchase from a company called National Polymers so, I am going to try them after lunch. "If" I can't get the info, it leans towards US Composites or Minicraft.

The bottom of the Mustang is all that's left to strip and repair if needed. The flip-over is being organized. Once it's flipped I will feel sooo much better.

Michelle,
Yes, I've been up north and offline for a couple of weeks and looks like I've got some catching up to do!! Reading though the thread it looks like you have gotten most of your questions answered. All I can add is always follow the manufacturers directions for the gel coat. Each can be slighly different as far as hardener and thinner for reduction. Each may have some recommendations as to the proper fluid tip and air cap for the spray gun/type you will be using. If not, get a reduced viscosity from them and then call the gun manufacturer.

Who did you end up with for the gel? Mini-craft?

5 gals. seems like alot but yet there can be waste so 4 may not do it! (5 gal. may be a decent price break compared to 4)You end up with lots of caoats to get the dry film build and do sand quite alot to get rid of the orange peel. Measure the sq. feet and run it past the manufacturer (also the mil build).

BTW, I'm for new rub rail. The new will be anodized and trying to clean up the old just isn't worth it.

Sanity,
My 64's front and rear seats did have snaps at the top originally. I (and dont tell Pete) used velcro to replace them when I had the new interior done. I know its not original..it was just a temporary fix,that ended up working very well.

Heres a pic ..



How you planning to flip the boat? We just got done flipping my Higgins back sunny-side-up before Thanksgiving.

BTW, glad to hear about thye rub rail...figured it shouldnt be too bad...

Rub rail stripped and sanded. You were right once again... salvagable it is. Need to shine up yet, but it looks great.

I know...pictures! I'll get some in soon.

OK...have a few rear "seat" questions. The original fiberglass frame with torn unrepairable cushion is there. It was not attached to the boat when purchased. Can someone explain to me how it is attached? There are snaps on the top of the seat, so I can assume there was a cover on the boat at some point.

There were no front seats. I printed out the seat construction from the site a while ago.

In the meantime... getting ready for the big boat "flip" and I'm a little nervous. But I'm sure everything will be ok...

Thanks!
Chelle'

Alan, just finishing one up, (balsa core) 2x3 rotted spot under the tank...normally I would pass on something like this but the rot stayed contained   I know alot of the Balsa is wet on this boat and put a commercial de-humidifier in it for 2 weeks and probably pulled 20 gallons of water its a 2000 go fast. I went in with birch ply and laminated to the thin area and glassed over that. if she snaps it wont be there

Sanity,

I'm with 62wood on refinishing the aluminum trim. Most on the site know that I'm a little off my rocker when it comes to shining things up. Here are a few of my projects, the trailer trim pieces were painted red when I got them. Over 40 feet of trim had to be striped and buffed. Very similar to your rubrail just not as large. I'm currently working on some risers that came to me painted ford blue, they were a mess and I'm almost ready to finish polish them.

For tools I use an assortment of sanding disks from 80 up to 320 to remove paint. Then move on to the 3M pads pictured( I got those from 62wood and they work fantastic). Then on to polishing, I use either a #5 or 6 polish with a bench top buffing wheel. A regular bench grinder with a buffing wheel will work also. I have also used a 4.5" handheld grinder and polishing disk with good results. I've found the key to good polishing is pressure and heat. Lots of it. You will be amazed at what you can bring back to better than original condition.

These started out Blue and are alomst ready for final polishing.


Over 40' of trim.

Ended up Here.


And my arsenal

word for word, when Reggie fountain builds boats he wants less suger and more spice, he removed Baja's inner liners and installed his time proven wood grid of stringers glassed directly to the hull making it more resistant cracking or worse failure.
Still not satisfied, Reggie substituted the polyester resin used for boats fiberglass construction with vinylester, a stronger and more flexible choice than traditional resins.
hull construction was switched from balsa core to high density foam sandwiched between the glass.
Just some helpful info for stringer jobs, it is essential to use epoxy where needed though, I used some to laminate wood to a transom and as for glassing the exterior i switched to polyester, dont be concerned much about the balsa and foam though, this is a different process on the bare hull. with balsa core they are 4 inch by 4 inch sqaures with the grain perpindicular to the hull..they must cut them from a long 4x4 to usually 1/2" thick and laminate them to the inside glass on the flats and then glass over them.....very light and very strong