Gel Coat Prep

62 wood wrote: I use Nevr-Dull wadding polish. I also dampen that with a little crome/metal polish, like Turtle Waxs, to keep it moist.

I noticed that AutoZone and Advanced carries it. I'm going out tonight to pick some up. Thanks. Yours look great.

If it doesn't end up looking decent I'll move on to plan "B". Thanks, guys.

Riley wrote: West Marine has the Taco rub rail in 6' lengths. rubrails.com has it in 12' lengths at a much better price, but $150 for shipping makes it very expensive.

I priced Taco rub rail for our Mustangs last summer.I went to Boaters World and it was about $63.00 for the 12'. They were unable to get the 6' lenghts. I also went to West Marine,they could not find it in their books and were going to call me back,and never did. The model you need is A11-0152,it's 1" high and 7/16" wide.Here is the original Reid quote-- "As for the rub rail, try this site and page. http://www.tacomarine.com/cat--Aluminum-Rub-Rail--cat2_aluminum_rr.html
This is the exact replacement if you're looking for the anodized alum. The model you want is A11-0152. You can buy this thru West Marine, but you'll need to give them this part number as I don't think you'll find it in their catalog. It comes in 12' and 6' strips, and I think I normally used 3-12s and a 6, with about 3 feet left over". This was in reference for a 71 Skier.I measured my Mustang, and needed 39'

Good Morning! I appreciate all of the information you are giving. Especially since you have already had the experience of using the products and completing the tasks.

I'm getting excited and anxious now. Don will hopefully be matching and giving us the sample to send for gelcoat by the end of the week. Still alot to do before the gel coat goes on, but I'm gearing up for this! Heck, I was excited when Dave buffed a few areas on the boat. WOW!

I'm going to work on that rub rail I have at home and see if it'll work. You guys are the greatest because now I know exactly where to get it and even the product number if mine is not salvagable.

I'm getting antsy, guys! And I still have a few more weeks to go, as I've got to wait for the "match" and the gel to arrive after it's ordered. Boat needs flipped....getting closer

Chelle'

[QUOTE=62 wood] Michelle, The rail would have to be pretty beatup not to be able to save it.
QUOTE]

That's positive thinking and I hope that's the case.

After losing my "fingerprints" temporarily I will make use of gloves. I had the shop order extra small for me and they fit nice and tight. I have a hard time working with gloves. Now, they are the first thing I put on when I walk in the garage.

Yeah....I'm REALLY excited.

Once the color is matched, I'll take a picture of it sitting on the mustang and post it.

Hey, I haven't heard from Pete or Tim. Either I'm doing OK or they are thoroughly disgusted with the route I'm taking. LOL

somehow...I knew I would receive a response like that. LOL.... My bad for not editing when I had the chance. LOL

sanity wrote: Hey, I haven't heard from Pete or Tim. Either I'm doing OK or they are thoroughly disgusted with the route I'm taking. LOL

Pete is up north where he doesn't have an internet connnection. Perhpas he'll stop at the library to check on CCFan soon.

TRBenj wrote: Michelle, looks like youve got a decent plan. Just to clarify, are you going to spray gel over the entire thing, or just doing spot repair?

I'm going for the entire thing.

tim, its marketed under the Bondo name by 3M, its not a filler or what people would call bondo, Its Polyester resin with hardener, the ingredient list on the can is proprietary. I brought it up earlier because the poly resin I by out of Fla is 30.00 per gallon and 108.00 to ship the 5 gallon pale, And apples to apples the Bondo polyester resin is far superior to any of the ones I've used in the past....most of the times its impossible to get the air bubbles out....this stuff doesnt get bubbles.
Maybe i came across as being a smart ass, Im on my 16th gallon this month.....it adds up

word for word, when Reggie fountain builds boats he wants less suger and more spice, he removed Baja's inner liners and installed his time proven wood grid of stringers glassed directly to the hull making it more resistant cracking or worse failure.
Still not satisfied, Reggie substituted the polyester resin used for boats fiberglass construction with vinylester, a stronger and more flexible choice than traditional resins.
hull construction was switched from balsa core to high density foam sandwiched between the glass.
Just some helpful info for stringer jobs, it is essential to use epoxy where needed though, I used some to laminate wood to a transom and as for glassing the exterior i switched to polyester, dont be concerned much about the balsa and foam though, this is a different process on the bare hull. with balsa core they are 4 inch by 4 inch sqaures with the grain perpindicular to the hull..they must cut them from a long 4x4 to usually 1/2" thick and laminate them to the inside glass on the flats and then glass over them.....very light and very strong

Sanity,

I'm with 62wood on refinishing the aluminum trim. Most on the site know that I'm a little off my rocker when it comes to shining things up. Here are a few of my projects, the trailer trim pieces were painted red when I got them. Over 40 feet of trim had to be striped and buffed. Very similar to your rubrail just not as large. I'm currently working on some risers that came to me painted ford blue, they were a mess and I'm almost ready to finish polish them.

For tools I use an assortment of sanding disks from 80 up to 320 to remove paint. Then move on to the 3M pads pictured( I got those from 62wood and they work fantastic). Then on to polishing, I use either a #5 or 6 polish with a bench top buffing wheel. A regular bench grinder with a buffing wheel will work also. I have also used a 4.5" handheld grinder and polishing disk with good results. I've found the key to good polishing is pressure and heat. Lots of it. You will be amazed at what you can bring back to better than original condition.

These started out Blue and are alomst ready for final polishing.


Over 40' of trim.

Ended up Here.


And my arsenal

Alan, just finishing one up, (balsa core) 2x3 rotted spot under the tank...normally I would pass on something like this but the rot stayed contained   I know alot of the Balsa is wet on this boat and put a commercial de-humidifier in it for 2 weeks and probably pulled 20 gallons of water its a 2000 go fast. I went in with birch ply and laminated to the thin area and glassed over that. if she snaps it wont be there

Rub rail stripped and sanded. You were right once again... salvagable it is. Need to shine up yet, but it looks great.

I know...pictures! I'll get some in soon.

OK...have a few rear "seat" questions. The original fiberglass frame with torn unrepairable cushion is there. It was not attached to the boat when purchased. Can someone explain to me how it is attached? There are snaps on the top of the seat, so I can assume there was a cover on the boat at some point.

There were no front seats. I printed out the seat construction from the site a while ago.

In the meantime... getting ready for the big boat "flip" and I'm a little nervous. But I'm sure everything will be ok...

Thanks!
Chelle'

Sanity,
My 64's front and rear seats did have snaps at the top originally. I (and dont tell Pete) used velcro to replace them when I had the new interior done. I know its not original..it was just a temporary fix,that ended up working very well.

Heres a pic ..



How you planning to flip the boat? We just got done flipping my Higgins back sunny-side-up before Thanksgiving.

BTW, glad to hear about thye rub rail...figured it shouldnt be too bad...

Michelle,
Yes, I've been up north and offline for a couple of weeks and looks like I've got some catching up to do!! Reading though the thread it looks like you have gotten most of your questions answered. All I can add is always follow the manufacturers directions for the gel coat. Each can be slighly different as far as hardener and thinner for reduction. Each may have some recommendations as to the proper fluid tip and air cap for the spray gun/type you will be using. If not, get a reduced viscosity from them and then call the gun manufacturer.

Who did you end up with for the gel? Mini-craft?

5 gals. seems like alot but yet there can be waste so 4 may not do it! (5 gal. may be a decent price break compared to 4)You end up with lots of caoats to get the dry film build and do sand quite alot to get rid of the orange peel. Measure the sq. feet and run it past the manufacturer (also the mil build).

BTW, I'm for new rub rail. The new will be anodized and trying to clean up the old just isn't worth it.

Hey Pete...I missed you until I read that last statement. Just kidding. I'm trying to keep it as original as possible except for the platform that will installed. And what I have will work for now, as the money will be spent on other Mustang needed items. And to think that in the back of my mind I was thinking "Pete will be pleased!"

Still researching where I will end up getting the gel. Rumor has it that there is a place in McKees Rocks (approx 30 minutes away) that carries gel coat. Haven't found out the name yet. We used to purchase from a company called National Polymers so, I am going to try them after lunch. "If" I can't get the info, it leans towards US Composites or Minicraft.

The bottom of the Mustang is all that's left to strip and repair if needed. The flip-over is being organized. Once it's flipped I will feel sooo much better.