79 Nautique rebuild?

Welcome to the site Monty. Looks like you have yourself a job there. But you have found the site that will help you get it under control. Many good threads here. Lots o luck.

john

This is off my 1977/78 which has no engine cradle I think 1979 is when they started to fit them but yours looks like its before this so should be the same others will confirm this
the hull should be the same ,good luck and welcome to the site.







sub stringer add on

Monty,
Your pylon is only bolted at the floor level. The bottom is just a pin into a socket that's glassed into the bilge/keel. I'm sure it's rusted in. Try some penetrating oil and soak it for a couple days. If still stuck, you'll need to cut the socket out of the glass. Not the worst because it sure looks like you'll be doing quite alot of glass work elsewhere! We''l certainly help you through it and it looks like the guys have already given you a good start.

Welcome

Welcome to the site!

It looks like you have quite the project ahead of you there. You will get through it with the help from everyone here.

Mike

Monty, I really like the throw cushion protecting the trailer fender in case the motor falls. Yeah.. that should do it.

Here is a close to accurate list of what I used for my stringer job in a 66 Barracuda..
List of materials to replace the stringers:

Quanty      Item                            Cat#        Price
5 gal     Epoxy resin 635 thin 3:1 ratio   EPOX-635316 $243.00
2 gal     Epoxy resin 635 thin 3:1 ratio   EPOX-635315 $109.00
1        (2)Pumps                         EPX-P31        $6.25
1 roll    50 yds 2" E-glass tape           FG-C02R       $15.85
1 roll    50 yds 4" E-glass tape           FG-C04R       $26.05
1 roll    50 yds 8" E-glass tape           FG-C08R       $52.00
20yds     Epoxy mat                        FG-EM10550     $5.35/yd x 20 = $107.00
5qts      1/32 milled fiber filler        SM-MF050      $16.25 - (used in filets)
4" 3/8"   Fiberglass Rollers               FR-1314A       $5.35 x 3 = $16.05
5qts      Phenolic Microballoons           FL-PH025      $12.50
2 boxes   2" wood paintbrushes qty-24      BR-TA20B      $12.25 x 2 = $24.50
5 ea      1qt mixing containers            CON-MM032       $.55/ea x 5 = $2.75
5 lb      tub of talc                      SM-TAL01       $5.25
15yds     6oz cloth                        FG-C0638       $4.30/yd x 15 = $64.50
13yds     #1708 biaxial                    FG-170838      $6.40/yd x 13 = $83.20
3 boxes   1" brushes                      BR-TA10B      $14.45 x 3 = $43.35
                                                        -------
                                                        $916.64

2 gal     Epoxy resin 635 thin 3:1 ratio   EPOX-635315 $109.00 (Additional needed for floor)

2 galkit CEPS Jamestown Distributers      SMI-CPESWGL $198.00     
        (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer)

Stringers-
2ea       2"x8"x16'
2ea       1"x6"x12' === All 4 were $220.80

Each stringer consumes about one gallon of epoxy resin from start to
finish. Use the epoxy to laminate both sides of the stringers. Seat
the stringers with a layer of epoxy mat and use weights to set. Fill
gaps with filler and epoxy. Make a bead on each side of the stringer
where it meets the hull at least 1' up on the stringer and on the hull.
Then use 2", 4", 8" strips along the joint to mate the stringer to the hull.
Then cover with 6oz and then biaxial.

I got my materials from US Composites.

At least this is what I did for my stringers. Not saying that it is the best way but it is working for me.
I have yet to install the floor as I am waiting for warm temps to pour the foam.

Good luck.

you forgot one little thing, Beer cost

Monty
Good work keep the pictures coming,here are some shots of my pylon apart.


I found a Dremel a good tool to use on the cutting out with a diamond wheels on it,there cheap as chips and one big wheel in a pack of 6 cut a main stringer out,also low dust so thin and small.

Monty,
Don't forget to check the condition of the wood blocking that's glassed into the transom. Drill some holes into the blocks close to the bottom and see what comes out.

So, what did the PO do to screw up his stringer "repair". Some details will help others here on what NOT to do!!!

Hi Monty

Looks like its moving on well,as for the lump of bondo you show could well have been done by PO I found that the stringers had been fitted in the hull with foam dabs along it in the factory before they were glassed in, so a small gap around 2mm would be there, so a repaired job at some point would fill it, but if its glass/poly then just filled when the factory glassed in, just check it out with the old original glass/poly.

Now let see if we can work out the new stringers, I have some Dwgs of the Stringers off my boat 1977/78 I think there the same as yours, have put them in DXF file full size, so if you have a friend with a plotter type printer you should be able to print off actual size and use as a template to lay on your new wood (remember Dwg's is of the deepest side or facing to the middle of the hull and are handed)

If you know someone with a CNC router you should be able to put the tool paths to each Dwg and put a small off set on the Hull Side ( bigger ) to scribe in.

Scribing in

I have know doubt there will be many schools of thought on how too, all with there own merit.
Give this a go, Cut to length the new wood, cut out the Dwg along the hull side only lay on new and mark along the new wood, keeping the rest of the paper on the other side will help to keep it straight, then you can cut to the shape of template, Keep more wood than you need along the top of the stringer.
Scribing now lay the stringer in the boat where it needs to go and just mark cut/plane until your happy with the fit so its in and out allot on the boat,or put some wood each end right across the top of the sides and clamp say 2x4, then an upright down next to the stringer position, screw or clamp must be plum (upright) now stringer is the ruff shape lay in and clamp the front only, now cut a small piece of 1/8 ply or hardboard 1/16 longer than the biggest gap you have at the front (would think it should be just over 1 inch in height and can be 3/4 wide) now with it go to the back of the boat lift the stringer up and clamp when you have the same gap as the front.
Now with your scribe piece run along the hull down each side of the stringer with a pencil on the top of the scribe which gives you the shape of you hull.Now depending on how you prep the hull before fitting this can be tricky, if you grind off all old flush in the hull no problem but harder to set back in the right place,or the leave base channels in gives you the place to re fit in which case would need to off set stringer to scribe by it thickness so it can run in the channel then repeat to do the other side easy to do by unclamping and moving the cross bars.
Now you have a line on each side you can saw/plane/sand up to it, I would leave a touch more say 2mm off the line from the front to nothing where it flattens out as its a steep curve and will fit better, should there be a cock up you can just redo until your happy, when your happy with the fit then cut the other side of paper template lay on your hull shaped stringer mark and cut to right size,this way you have a few chances on the scribing, some on here can do it first time its what you are happy doing.
When you have finished one then repeat for the other side (remember its a mirror of it ) and then lay the first one on to it and mark the top and you should have a pair.

I have tried to post the DXF files but will not load so if you post a E mail I will ping over unless someone can help me with this.


Have fun and keep us posted on how it going and you might think its a bit slow on here but many are at a reunion the weekend and beer is involved too but will be back soon.

As for me I'm off to take my youngest daughter out for the first time teaching her to drive and she thinks the rear view mirror is to check her makeup so could be gone a while.       

Hey Uk, you mention dxf file which is a file format usually produced from an autocad drawing. If you are using autocad, depending on the version (06 or better?) you can plot it to a jpg or a pdf.

If you cant do it, send it to me and I'll put it into both formats. Also, I might be able to print it full size on several 24x36 sheets and send it to you. Then you just cut it out and have a paper template to use

Thanks for the help. I would of never even attempted this project without this great site and the knowledgeable people on it. I don't know anyone with that type of printer or cnc equipment but will do some checking around.



Now I get to put a set of struts on my son's honda he is going for his drivers license on Wed. Thanks Monty

Hi Guys
Monty/Daniel just pinged them over let me know if its not come through.

Looks good Monty! You may want to cut the glass top off of the wood in the stern like you did on the steering port. They took a while to dry in my case and I replaced 2 of 5 pieces in mine. Of course soak them in CPES after they dry...and the dryer they are, the more they'll soak up almost plasticizing the wood. Cool stuff!

Edit-That glass around the edges of the steering port could be holding water.

Monty,

Try this posting..
dampners

I notice that Monty's boat has the ski shelfs btwn the gunnels and floor. Was this a CC interior option? I've seen them on other boats, but not most. Doesn't look like they'd be to hard to add on my BF, but what's the general opinion on them? Do they get in the way or are they beneficial?