79 Nautique rebuild?

Monty,
Were you able to find the original red and black outdoor carpet? If so, I'd like to know where you bought it. I have an '80 that looks very much like your boat. Mine is approaching a re do.

Ok did more fitting and a little plumbing work. I'm going to mark everything and start with cpes treatment.




A fiberglass book I reserved at library finally made it to me. After looking at it I'm more confused than ever. It says to have rigid plastic foam pad under the bulkhead and other areas so you don't have hard spots. I was thinking that the wood parts should fit as close as possible and then be glued down with that mat and a thick mixture of epoxy or peanut butter.I know its back through the patch and WBTS and others. Did I miss something I remember several comments that CC set the stringers on foam pads. Was that the norm back then and things are done different now?

AT&T & CWA Sounds like were in the same boat.

Here's what came out on exhaust back plate.



This is the biggest piece of template I had.       Woo ho.



Did some more fitting for mock-up.
How come the phone only rings after you get in the boat? I wonder if anybody kept track of times entered and out I'd probably set a record..
Kirk, Our contract is up Apr 4 @ midnight I may have the time to work on boat But I've been kind of holding off placing order for fiberglass materials$$$$$

Monty, that's looking good. I bet you are thinking, "If I could take a month off of work, I'd have it finished in no time!" Good luck.

There is a electric blower that is mounted in a fiberglass box, flip the lever in the box to release air and switch on blower to raise it. The fancy ones are remote controlled so you can raise it back up for rough water. Then lower when returning. We are on a Corp lake and have to use a generator for electricity. The valve on the tank is a safety I installed. After looking today I think I can raise my bunks with some 2" square metal stock. more fun.....




lake lifts

Monty, just looked back through your post and the cradle came in 1980 so a 80/81 would make a good starting point as its the same hull,they may be the same in 2001 boats, need a 2001 guy to size one up for you.

Nice lift by the way.

Thanks I'm not too far from lake of the Ozarks lots of lift dealers there. I measured boat so will see if I can come up with taller brackets.

Pardon me for being dumb. But do I need to buy new Taller brackets? or is there a way to make these work? I know I'm a long way from this issue but want to get this figured out while I'm there or at least know what to be looking for. Monty

Thanks. I sent a E-mail to Paul about a engine cradle. Does anybody know what years would work on my boat? I want to beef up the pylon area as much as possible as the boys want to Wakeboard with that stripper pole.
I got the files for the other stringers from Jeremy. Thanks so much!!! to you and Roger.

Have to make a trip to lake this weekend to check on things and thought of my lift right now is setup for my runabout do you what changes will I have to make for the CC?

Monty as Kirk and Mike said the pylon fixing is a weak part on our year boats, and the engine cradle type is the way to go with all the extra things/ways now around to pull. I would think the later cradle may fit with a small amount of work and setting the stringers for one, may be worth a post on the parts wanted list or mail Paul
he has lots of parts he helped me out and sent over to the UK if not a cradle you may need some other CC parts.

nautiquefanatic

pcarpenter2@carolina.rr.com

or call (980)581-0006

Mike you could go ping pong on your next boat

uk1979 wrote: to ping pong balls.

Dammit !!

For the pylon mount, and I do realize this is a different boat: Mine was two pieces of 3/4" ply peanut buttered and screwed together. One went between the stingers and one went on top in a notch. Then my floor. so it is 2" plus total of surrounding cross support.

Monty yes a good solid bit of 2x8 under the floor sealed and epoxy on with a good snug fit around the pylon along with the 4 bolts through the welded top plate down to the under plate to give a 3/4 ply and 2 inch depth should be fine, not sure what Kirk's mean's as I am thinking you are putting the front floor in as a big slab not unlike he shows in his post, you could put some off cuts of ply under the floor where you fix the seats too all epoxy on,then I would coat the tops of the stringers with wet epoxy and screw down or if its a removable job just more screws no wet epoxy.
As for the shims I too had them 11/4 at the front and 1/4 at the back I may be wrong my guess is the stringers were set as a one size fits all on the engine package you had, and its easy to just shim up, you have 351 and I have 350 and the early 70's boat may have had something different.

My 79bfn is alot like the 79sn in and around the pylon. This was a huge failure point in the floor system on mine. I wish I had taken pictures of this part of the floor before tearing it apart. If like mine, the only attachment point for the pylon is the socket in the bilge (which has no pin), and of course the floor. With the exception of my daughter, everyone pulled behind my 81sn was 200#s plussss. With the simple laws of physics, the attachment down at the floor and its close proximity to that socket in the bilge, there is alot of force or leverage created at the attachment points. I would tie that floor around the pylon in with more than screws. If the floor attachment starts to fail, then that socket in the bilge is going to get wallowed out. I would use more than screws to hold that part of the floor in.

Good Work Monty glad it works,on the floor Mike is right 3/4 or at a pinch 5/8 as the ski pylon is bolted through the floor on your year SN and is the main support so a good multi ply (WBP grade) would be good coated all over with CPES & epoxy ( when you coat it up do all over at the same time on a thick plastic sheet, will help to keep it flat and not pull one side,they say epoxy has a low shrink rate/ to dry! ) as for the sides that was fiberglass which was over the ply/wood then over foam, lots of schools of thought and all good Mike's post shows the ply way well, the back middle section was 3/4 ply that you could remove with screws for ease to work on.

Lots to read up on here for floors Foam or no Foam, if no then there are Mike's pool noodles right up to empty soft drink bottles (caps on) to ping pong balls.
At the end of the day its your boat and do it as you feel happy with which could be a combo of all the above or a new twist.

Keep it up and keep the new wood work skills under your hat and on here, if the skirts find out you will soon have lots of new jobs which = less boat time.