engine rebuilt

Sebastian,
I was in the same situation last year. I got my GT40p heads from Clearwater Cylinder Head (800)572-1963. They offer new castings and reconditioned castings. I got the reconditioned heads for $400 + $50 shipping. That included brass freeze plugs and drilling out for 351 head bolts. I did a lot of additional work, but re-used the stock cam as it was in good condition. You will definitely notice the extra horse power from the GT40p heads! Good luck with your project!

Try calling them on Monday, I also tried to email them and had better luck by phone. Don't worry about your english, I'm sure they have someone that speaks spanish there! My engine started out with a burnt exhaust valve. When I got the heads off, the cylinder with the bad valve had a hole burnt through the piston, so I had to rebuild. The previous owner of my boat apparently hydro-locked the engine at some point since the machinist also found a bent connecting rod when he reconditioned them. It was a mess, but she runs great now thanks to the guys on this site!
Was your engine running well before you discovered the cracked head? Have you run a compression test lately? Since the heads are off, what do the cylinder walls look like? Can you still see the cross hatch pattern clearly? If you don't know of any additional problems, I'd put the new heads on and try it. Warm the engine up, then do a compression test and decide if it needs more work. All you have to lose is a few hours and the price of a gasket set. I'm sure others will have their opinions.

engine ran perfect before the discovery...it did burn 1/2 quart of oil between each oil change, every 50-60 hours...
regarding the cylinder walls they are smooth, but with a little ridge at the top....
anyway I'll be ordering a complete engine rebuilt kit...are the summit kit ok? I was also thinking on Performance auto warehouse for parts.
regarding my english its actually good btu I get stuck sometimes wiht technical words...

critter wrote: Depending on how much of a ridge you find at the top of the cylinder, you may need one of these... Ridge Reamer

interesting reading.. I´ll discuss it with the machinist if possible, I´ll also going to check the bore to see if it´s within specs.
Anyway I´m considering to order all the parts now, to save some shipping cost and time in the future.
I case it in specs i´ll be ordering a rings and rod bearings kit in std size. And a complete kit with pistons in a .10? oversize, for when I decide to rebuilt?
Maybe I´m ahead cause Í didn´t even finished the tear appart of the engine yet...
Regarding pistons what should I order? cast, forged or hipereutetic? rings moly or other material?
Eric I don`t recall ever changing the damper plate since I own the boat, so I guess it´s a good opportunity to do it now, you carry them?

I would definitely go refurb'd and save the cash over new. Dont forget that if you go with a new cam, you should strongly consider Tristate over Clearwater because of the upgraded valvesprings.

eric lavine wrote: they are cast plugs!!!!! lol, everybody has a little Pete in them, the holes they cover let sand out not ice

technically they are core openings that are machined and fitted with stamped brass or steel plugs.

Options
1 new pistons on .30 and leave the rest in std measure
2 leave everything and re ring along with all bearing in std size?

Gasket any particular thing or use the ones in the kit? also thinking on the metal multilayer ones? are they good for marine use?

If you have a Machine Shop close by, take the Block and Crank to them and let them check the wear. They will tell you if you need the cylinders bored or just honed. They will check the Crank for wear and let you know if it needs turned or can be polished.
They will tell you the size Bearings and Rings and if you need new Pistons if they have to bore.
You do not want to have to pull this motor again. Those are the required and simplest checks.

I would say that looking at the wear pattern the crank has at least one rod journal out of round, notice the concentrated area were the wear is, should have been a little more spread out accross the surface.

Well question is now how deep are your pockets and what is the budget?

Piston's don't look too bad might be able to reuse, but .025-.030 bored over is nice too, the crank has to be turned, whats the thrust bearing look like, on the block too?, your getting a better cam and lifters, unless availibility/price is an issue, so is it budget, mild or HO build?

going back to the cam what the break in good for?

I also noticed that you have the 2 piece fuel pump cam ecentric, when ordering specify that you need the offset timing set to accomadate the top gear, that workhorse looks like it was ready for a freshening up.

Kapla I Do need a another specific picture... It would be one with your wife's friend doing some wrenches on that 351!!!

eric lavine wrote: I also noticed that you have the 2 piece fuel pump cam ecentric, when ordering specify that you need the offset timing set to accomadate the top gear, that workhorse looks like it was ready for a freshening up.

thats right this offset cam should come along with the timing chain kit or should it come appart? Is It necessary to replace that part? It has to be new with the timing? I was thinking on putting an edelbrock double timing set...

Kapla check Roberto Bettiga on price for the damper... they are not that expensive around here and he'd gladly walk you through the instalation.

kapla wrote: Luchog wrote: Kapla I Do need a another specific picture... It would be one with your wife's friend doing some wrenches on that 351!!! you wish.. I imagine her in the workshop jumpsuit with her face all covered in grease....

You guys are heading down a slippery slope with this, Eric's already been on here today talking about wet spots!