Bilge Pump Stopped

LB,
If you have a volt meter or at least a test light, first check to see if you do have power going to the pump. Trace the wires back from the pump to the terminals on the relay. It may be a bad pump. Just because you here the relay click doesn't mean you have power going to the pump. The pump may be on a different circuit (fuse) than the control circuit for the relay.

LakeBoy wrote: Where is the relay/fuse located? Under the dash?

Sorry I don't know. Where is the clicking sound you're hearing? As mentioned, try to see if you can trace the wiring back from the bilge pump.

LakeBoy wrote: How relevant is the indicator light not coming on?

It may just be burnt out or yes it may be on the same circuit as the bilge pump (not the relay coil circuit) in which case it would indicate no power to the pump/light. Fuse? Relay contacts burnt up? In ether case, there's always a reason - bad pump pulling too much power/amps.

Well, I did the deal yesterday. Check the fuses, they were OK. On my firewall there is a power on/of swith with a bilge pump "on" switch setting. Also a bilge "breaker", one of the push in variety. It was popped out. (tripped) I pushed it in and I then popped the wires off the bilge and checked for power.

Got power. Popped the bilge out and the motor was tough to spin, so I figured the bilge pump is crap.

Any advice on replacing it? Mine is a Rule 500 Automatic bilge pump.

What is the deal on automatic v. non-automatic?

The strainer area was pretty clean. I think the motor siezed up. May have run dry or something. I went to West Marine and the Rule Automatic 500 GPH was 60 bucks. Not bad but it was a 3-wire pump and mine is a 2-wire. Much less an electrician than a mechanic, I opted for the 2-wire, non-auto model at 27 bucks. I trailer my boat and could not see getting into a re-wire project for a bilge that is used on occaision or emergencies. Plus the new pump snaps right onto the base that is already installed.

I let you know how it comes out.

Rick, thanks for that. I opted out of the automatic. It was 60 bucks instead of 30 bucks, and I didn't want to get into a rewire project. I have no need for an automatic per se. More of a luxury. Got the manual installed last night. If I need the bilge, I hit the switch. I get very little water in my bilge, mostly want it for emergencies like a hole in my hull. I trailer the boat, and leave it in the water when I camp at my ski club. After 4 days in the lake, I am lucky if there is 3/4" of water in the bilge.

This way I am set. If it annoys me somehow, I can spring for the auto and the rewire.

Thanks guys for the tips!

Thanks Monty. Went footing yesterday, no video, just me and the wife. You should try it Monty. Find someone who has a boom and try this:

First Time Footer

This is my friends first attempt ever.

Guys - Because I feared the original bilge pump might fail, or I might forget to leave it on I installed a second bilge pump. A "Whale" brand of pump. http://www.whalepumps.com/documents/brochure/SUPERSUB__SMART_650.pdf
I added a second thru hull fitting and changed the original thru hull fitting to stainless to match the new one. It was a pain to run the bilge tubing but was able to snake it through the access tube. The new Whale is wired direct to the battery so it does not have a manual over ride now. It is always hot and ready to go no matter what position the dash switches are in. The best part of this back up pump is there is NO mechanical float switch to mess up! It has a water sensor on it. Also, because it is a horizontal pump rather than a vertical pump it fits neatly under the engine. Lastly, it kicks out a steam of water about 5 times bigger than the original. If you add a pump or replace your original you should also consider replacing the cheap ribbed tubing with smooth wall bilge pump tubing. It offers much less resistance. I considered this installation just cheap insurance.

Hope this helps someone.

1990 Correct Craft