Boat stands- concrete blocks? |
Post Reply |
Author | |
jbenbri
Groupie Joined: November-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 54 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: January-23-2010 at 2:49pm |
I need to get my boat on stands to start removing stringers. I am scared to just leave it on the trailer. Anyone given this a try? Thanks.
|
|
SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yes, this is not hard, just time consuming.
You will need a floor jack & blocks or jack stands, some wood blocks & carpet to protect the gel coat. Lower the bow all the way with the trailer jack, block the stern on both sides. Raise the bow, block up the keel at the front. Level the trailer & you can pull it out some. Removing the prop guard (if you have one) is advised. You will have to jockey the supports a few times to get them past the trailer crossmembers. Take your time & always double check your support before crawling under the boat. |
|
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
|
ryanowen
Senior Member Joined: June-05-2008 Location: Detroit Status: Offline Points: 284 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yep. I used half cinder blocks and wood wedges. I put them down the center and along the sides. It was kind of nice because it lowered the boat and made it easier to get in and out.
|
|
jbenbri
Groupie Joined: November-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 54 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
How high did you stack them? It is a 83 SN and the trailer sits pretty high, about 30" or so. Won't I need to stack them about 4 high? I'm nervous they will want to rock.
|
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
What kind of boat? If its a 2001 or newer Ski Nautique, then I appreciate your concerns. The older, smaller hulls arent nearly as susceptible to hull deflection with the structure removed though, in my opinion.
If youve got a nice flat, stable surface to put the boat (like a garage), then putting it on concrete blocks is just fine. Just make sure its stable... once the trailer is out from under it, you may want to lower it as much as possible so its not as tipsy. Make sure you put some wood between the blocks and hull to keep from scratching it up too. |
|
bkhallpass
Grand Poobah Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You do not need to remove the trailer. I did so mainly to get it out of the way so I wouldn't cover it with dust or fiberglass. What you do need to do is to block up the perimeter of the boat before removing the stringers. If the boat just sits on the trailer, when you remove the stringers, the running surface will flex just from sitting on its own weight. You can easilty block the boat up with cinder blocks, jack stands, wooden blocks, etc. leaving it just above the trailer. Perhaps even wiht the running surface just sitting lightly on the bunks. Level it, and then you are free to remove the stringers witht he trialer in place. BKH
|
|
Livin' the Dream
|
|
jbenbri
Groupie Joined: November-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 54 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I have a couple of jack stands and could come up with a couple more but they are just to short. What about the stands on top of concrete blocks and a 2x?
|
|
WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Interesting that this comes up today. I am pondering what exactly I am going to do. I just traced out my stringers and will be standing the boat up today or first thing in the AM. I have large set of jackstands, but they are under my wife's convertible cause the trans needs to come out. I have a smaller set but they are way too small. I have a big pile of cinder blocks and think I will do just what you are talking about above. Blocks, stands, boards. I also have a bunch of popped motorcycle tubes I can cut and put between the boards and hull. Just for antislip, I do not care about hull scratches. I may notch the boards to set down on the cradled top part of the stand, and not be able to slip.
I am just going to lift it off the trailer, not remove the trailer. Two under the transom semi close to the corner, and two under the windshield on the outer part of the bottom of the hull. I may put one safety block under the keel. I am thinking a couple of us can just lift the boat up and adjust to level. I can easily lift the back end myself. Taking it down will obviously be a bit heavier. |
|
Mike N
1968 Mustang |
|
81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5779 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I've done this at least half a dozen times using snobsessed method with a little twist. If you happen to have an engine hoist you may be able to reach the bow lift ring, I've done this with my 81 and Mojo's Cuda. It makes for a few less steps moving the floor jack to get by the trailer cross members. You will still need the floor jack and blocks but it is easier. I've also used the hoist on the rear lift ring, just depends on what kind of room you have around the boat but it's like having a portable crane. I've unloaded my 81 by myself in about 15 minutes.
Removing the prop guard makes it easier but if you have a hoist just block the bow up off the trailer, go to the back, lift by the lift ring and roll the trailer out enough to block the stern. The prop guard is a non issue this way. A cautionary disclaimer on the lift rings... Make sure you inspect them before using them. If you need stringers they may be suspect too. |
|
You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
|
|
WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
We took 95%+ of the weight off the trailer. Blocks and jackstands on rear corners. The front stands are at windshield and wedged on the outside edge of the hull. Left just enough pressure on the trailer to keep the boat steady. The hull is level side to side, and fore to aft.
|
|
Mike N
1968 Mustang |
|
eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
if you could afford 6 sheets of ply, you can make a cheap cradle, trace on carboard your transom angles and cut your 4x8 sheets down the middle and glue 2 halves together, use your cardboard as a guide and cut the angles. do this every couple of feet and then you can build a frame and put castors on the bottem. the guys at D and D marine do this and its very sturdy and allows then to move the boats when needed
|
|
"the things you own will start to own you"
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |