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Tune up on 351? |
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skicat2001 
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Joined: November-24-2008 Location: Ft. Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 1950 |
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 Topic: Tune up on 351?Posted: March-10-2010 at 12:08am |
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Hello guys,
I was kicking around tuning my 85 Nautique boat, and getting her ready for spring. My boat was tuned in 06, and thinking about doing it myself. As this site has brought me so much knowledge reading other posts in many other aspects. I need deep detail of what parts and how to do this properly as you guys did with my risers and gaskets on the manifolds. What are the parts? What steps do I take? Who do I order from? I had the points redone from my mechanic this fall, should I redoe those,and leave alone and just do the wires and plugs? What kinda tools will I need to set plugs? Do they just screw in or..? How much will it cost me to do myself? I am looking forward to you guys helping me on this matter. I think I am do, and would love your help. I know this doesnt take long, but I am 2 weeks away from putting her in the water. I might just go ahead and do this tune up.. Thanks SkiCat 2001 |
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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Luchog
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Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 12:34am |
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just change the oil and filter go and have fun with it!!!
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 12:36am |
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Thanks for the info!!  
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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Luchog
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:34am |
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Buy 8 spark plugs, take each lead out at a time and replace the plug, you just need a 5/8 wrench. Spray some W40 so they come out easier. You can get Autolites 24 or NGK BPR6FS.
When you take plugs out check them out to see if any carburation or ignition tuning is needed. They should be tanned and dry. Then replace each cable, one at a time so you dont mix them up. You could also get the tune up kit for your distributor, Most likely a Prestolite Distributor. Replacing the rotor and cap is quite simple, changing the points you'll need to set gap to spec with a feeler gauge. It is a good idea to spray some W40 on the springs below the plate if it's been sitting for a while. Open the gas/water separator if you have one and clean it, replace the filter if needed. Change the water pump impeller with a new fresh one. you probably have a sheerwood pump. Connect a water hose to the engine's water pump inlet (the one with the hose connected to the bottom of the hull) or get one of those fake a lake hoses wich go into the hull water fitting. Start the engine and have it warm up, check the water pump does not get hot. When you touch the oil filter and feel its hot its time to shut it down and suck the oil, through the dipstick with a pump or take the crank plug out, put something under so you dont make a mess. If it has the oil suction hose you can plug the pump to it, another way if you dont have an oil pump is to take that hose out though the hull's plug and shut air through the dipstick. Suck out all oil and add fresh one through the passenger's side valve cover cap. Replace the oil filter. The crank uses 4 quarters plus one for the filter. Anyway use the dipstick to see when it's full, check level on the water, do not overfill!!! I see many guys here like te Valvoline VR oil or other high on ZDDP. For the oil filter stay away from FRAM, you dont need a PCM filter neither. Put a plate below the tranny plug to take oil out, fill again through the dipstick tube until you read a little over full on the dipstick. you must recheck tranny oil level on the water after running the boat. You use Dextron III fluid for this. Check that water pump and alternator belts are tight and have little to non play, if not loose the brackets bolts and plie the pump or alternator until belt is tight then ajust the bracket. If the belt teeths are too worn, replace belt. My point was/is, that it is unlikely any of the things you'll replace will make your boat perform better, in fact you will probably mess it up after spending some hundred on unneeded parts and then you'll have to spend more hundreds to fix it, my advice is leave it as it is and enjoy it until something starts acting up and then you'll learn each procedure at a time. what do you think? |
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79nautique
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Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 11:37am |
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PLEASE...leave it alone?
I'm not in that boat, the plugs need changed with Autolite plugs, never use NKG's in a ford, your not overseas so the autolites are easy to locate anyware in the states. But I would inspect the cap and rotor looking for carbon tracks in the cap and corrosion on the rotor tip and the tower tips inside of the cap, replace if you see mild to heavy corrosion usually green in color. Check for cracks in the cap replace if you find one. Replace if you see heat marks in the center of the rotor or cap post pictures here if your not sure. next I would inspect the RWP impellar or install it if you removed it for the winter, replace if any vanes are missing or it has grooves in the vanes. Next hook up a water supply and start the motor get it up to operating temp, set the dwell if points then set the timing, recheck the dwell, recheck the timing set dwell at 20 degrees, timing at 8-10 degree's. check your idle make sure it's around 700-750 when you set the timing, if it's higher when you set timing lower it and recheck the dwell and timing untill all three are set correctly. Since your not in the water you can't put it in gear and adjust it to the 600-650 setting so you'll have to recheck all of that once you are on the water takes about 5 minutes tops. Next you can fine tune the idle mixture screws and idle to there final settings. This should be done on the water and in gear for best results. Next change the oil if it wasn't part of your winterization, change the filter, if you have a hose attached to the oil pan drain plug, run the hose thru the drain in the hull and drain the oil out, no air no pump is required. Next inspect the tranny fluid change if needed. set the plug gap at .035" replace one plug at a time. If you buy the marine grade plug with the SS base then you can extend the time you leave them in the motor. Standard plugs like to rust up pretty quick in a boat so I always changed them each year but after I ran the boat a time or two to use up the old gas and burn off the fogging oil to prevent fouling and leaving deposites on the new plugs. But I would fire it up, set the dwell and timing if points, E! ignition just timing get the carb pretty close then fine tune it all once your on the water. |
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DrCC
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Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:36pm |
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Chris, Why no NGK's in a FoMoCo? I love em in my 2-strokes.
Lee, Yes, do put a new impeller in it! I replace every 3 years whether it needs it or not. |
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skicat2001
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Joined: November-24-2008 Location: Ft. Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 1950 |
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:39pm |
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Thanks Al, Yes sir, I change impellar every 100 hrs or annually.. |
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:41pm |
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Please excuse my comment.. |
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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DrCC
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:42pm |
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Hey, I lived in Katy in 1980. (Unintentional rhyme)
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skicat2001
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Joined: November-24-2008 Location: Ft. Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 1950 |
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 1:47pm |
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Really? Great place to live.. Hey Chris and Grimblat, Reading yalls post on tuning the boat! Great stuff.. Thanks guys.. 
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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kapla
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:08pm |
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wonder the same..no autolites here so I went with the NGK 
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<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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79nautique
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:09pm |
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last time I checked Ford doesn't make two-cycle engines and they don't own NGK so how can you match the correct heat range by using NGK's NGK's work great in the TL but I wound never use them in an american designed car. |
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DrCC
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:24pm |
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Chris, by 2-strokes I meant like all my chainsaws etc.
So, It's a keep engines with how they came type thing. GM/AC etc... |
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 2:52pm |
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What is the difference in these plugs guys? Is one spilt fire plug, or just provide stronger combustion to the engine etc..
As I can see Chris sounds like the hard part is setting the idle mixture screws. As this will be the final step in the fine tunning process.. You da man Chris! 
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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79nautique
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:02pm |
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the difference is the engine came with autolite plugs from the factory so I suggest you stick with that brand, now going with the platnum series is fine if they interchange for the heat range only which they do in this application.
The idle air mixture screw can be a little harder to figure out at first but with a little practice and guidens you can learn how to notice the fine change you have to listen for and the smell as well, a vaccum gauge is a great aid for the beginner. there is a lot more going on with the spark plug than most realize, the length of the tips can vary and effect combustion, heat ranges vary as well and may not be the same from one brand to the next. A good exapmple is AC/Delco's number system there are R44T, R44TSX, R44 and severall other letter combinations the number is the heat range the trailing letters are tip styles so you have options depending on if it's a fresh rebuild or an old one burning oil. Autolite doesn't have as many options compared to AC/Delco's stuff but the main part is the heat range and you have a better chance getting it right with the factory speced plug, now if your experienced then yes you can play around with different brands and heat ranges but for the average Joe I don't recomend doing it. Most that are Running something other than autolites are because they can not get them in their country so you have to use what you can, you just have to inspect them and read the plug to verify the engine is running like it should and sometimes it's trial and error sometimes there is a direct replacement, so not everyone is in the same boat. |
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:25pm |
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There is a big difference in plugs Chris. I will have to see what is in mine, but wouldnt doubt it if NGK was in there. Would be my luck..
As you had some great steps and where in great detail on tuning the boat, I will look around for these plugs you talking about. I am also a member of Overton.com and recieve a catalog from them every spring and summer. They have a tune up kit for 66.99 includes cap, rotor, points and condesor.. There plugs they sell in Overtons catalog are NGK plugs... I will look for the others.. |
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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79nautique
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:32pm |
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go to wal-mart, autozone, o'reily's any parts store in the us and get autolite 24's or the iridium version just don't try and gap the platnium plugs with a wire style gapper you have to use the ramp style gapper so you don't knock the platnium tip off of the plug.
also the cap and rotor you can get any where too nothing fancy about it just cross refernce the dist brand and number and your good to go or order them from correctcraftparts.com |
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:36pm |
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Cool Chris,
I apperciate the advice, if I have problems, I will send you an email.. Thanks!
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:40pm |
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Wow, $67 for a tune up kit??? Where do you think Overtons gets them? Probably just a Sierra kit. You can even get it from West Marine cheaper! Stick with a decent auto supply like Chris recommends and buy your ski equipement (or tubes) from Overtons. |
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 3:48pm |
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Pete,
They dont say what brand they are.. They range here from 39.99 up to the 67.99.. Now, I notice there are different caps for V-8 motors, tall-cap, flat cap, clip cap, and a screw cap. The one I need is the tall cap rotor, and its price is 39.99 but I dont have the that type of ingition. But I will shop around, to see.. |
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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79nautique
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 4:43pm |
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get the model number of the distibutor and it's brand mallory or prestolite, call Billy get the right numbers for the cap and rotor and then order them from him or use the info and get them locally.
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:01pm |
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I sure will Chris.. You say the guy is Billy who I will be talking too..
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:10pm |
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Lee,
Billy is one of our members (boatdr). He's in the boat repair business and also the parts. His wife Karen sometimes answers but she can handle your parts needs too. I know they have a separate phone line for parts but I don't have it!! Try their main phone 318 386 2825 |
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81nautique
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:18pm |
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hey Chris, Not to be a nit picker but there is no such site as correctcraftparts.com , it redirects to some dealer in canada but it sure isn't Billy's site. He should chime in with the correct url but looks to me like he pulled it down or changed it. |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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TRBenj
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:19pm |
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81nautique
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:27pm |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:29pm |
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Pete, Thanks, I will give him or his wife a hollar on this.. Can he ship pretty much anything? |
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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TRBenj
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:40pm |
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No, Boat Dr. requires that you pick up everything at his shop in Monterey, Louisiana. |
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skicat2001
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Posted: March-10-2010 at 6:42pm |
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Oh ok.. Thanks TR..
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1985 CC 2001-SOLD
Lee Michael Johnson |
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79nautique
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Posted: March-11-2010 at 12:30pm |
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Hummm I believe he was just pulling your leg. But thanks for the correction I didn't realize it's Mycorrectcraftparts sorry for the confusion. |
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Luchog wrote: