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96SNOB Steering
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Grand Poobah
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Points: 2119 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2010 at 3:55pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Chris, that sounds more like a cable issue to me. Take the cable off the rudder and turn it by hand- if its smooth and turns easy, then dont bother pulling it... although now might be a good time to change the packing.

If the new (R&P) cables are like the old (rotary) ones, then you'll need to reuse the clamp tube. Pull the new cable through (Ive always done front to rear) using either the old cable or a rope (that you pulled through when you removed the old one). Install the cable at the helm, such that the middle of the cable's travel has your steering wheel right side up (this can be tricky). Then install the cable to the rudder. The last thing you want to do is to lock down the clamp block to the clamp tube. You do this by putting the steering wheel in the center (equal travel in both directions) and holding the rudder straight. Clamp the cable down in that position.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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Grand Poobah
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Points: 21184 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2010 at 3:36pm
Edit: Just ignore my advice- I havent had to do a rack cable (yet). Jody has it covered.
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Grand Poobah
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Update on the SNOB Cable. New one is sitting in the office and I'm planning on instillation in the next few days.

I've been researching rudder removal. We had a vibration last year when turning, the best description I could come up with is it felt like the rudder was rattling around. I went to see the boat last night and the rudder seems to bounce when you turn the wheel. It would only do this in one direction, the other way was fine, smooth and easy.

Does this sound like grounds for rudder removal?

Just to be sure, I pulled these steps from another thread and a pic of Tim's 90 Rudder.
Originally posted by phospher phospher wrote:


1. Get a six pack of beer and start drinking. What else matters?Done

2. Remove rear seat. Done
3. Remove rear panel.Done
4. Remove rear floor board (might require removal of doghouse.Done
5. Remove saftey wire at top of rudder post/tiller arm.
5a. Support rudder from below (do not let it drop).
6. Remove bolt from top of rudder post.
7. Loosen clamping bolt on tiller arm.
8. Lift tiller arm up off of rudder post.
9. Remove rudder from below. may require jacking boat off of trailer bunks so rudder clears prop gaurd, if so equiped.



-phil




I'll probably pull the rudder first and check everything out before I pull out the old cable. I'm worried about messing up the throw when I tear everything apart.

Any thoughts? Suggestions?
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Grand Poobah
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Thanks for the info Jody, looks like I have some research to do on cables!
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Grand Poobah
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Points: 2867 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2010 at 4:23pm
I was wondering the same?    Moomba pics?


AT
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Thread Jack

Hey Jody good to have you back!! how was your trip to the aussie land?
Pics?
kapla
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Grand Poobah
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Sorry my disclaimer at the end should read: This application does NOT apply to the pre Teleflex Rack and pinion era nautiques as the old rotory systems do have a the extra throw incorperated in them.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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Grand Poobah
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Sorry I have to jump in here. When we went over to Teleflex rack and pinion there really was not any thing special or propriatary about it until we utilized the idea of incorperating the old larger rotory cable in the rack format. Then in either late 90's or early 2000s teleflex went to a larger rack mount and pinion assembly. Since Teleflex and Morse combined company's the larger heavier rotory/rack cables became more troublesome and early failure became a problem and Nautiques have now gone over to the standard Teleflex Extreem cable.
A suggestion for all that are considering a new cable in a early Teleflex rack and pinion application is to go ahead and up grade the pinion assembly to the newer unit and utilize the newer Teleflex Extreem cable. you will be happier for it. Also if you are paying more than $145.00 for the cable you are being robbed!
This application does apply to the pre Teleflex Rack and pinion era nautiques as the old rotory systems do have a the extra throw incorperated in them.
Cheers!
Jody

Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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Points: 4492 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2010 at 1:31pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:



Buy the stuff that came on the boat, from someone that knows CC,quality aint cheap.


Don't worry Billy, waiting for Karen to get me hooked up!
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Points: 21184 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2010 at 11:52pm
I agree with Billy. Buy the right cable for the boat. The earlier boats (pre-2001) used the standard cable with the shorter throw. I notice a huge difference in low speed maneuverability. I can get by with the smaller boats, but we're buying a high dollar cable and converting the BFN over this spring.
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Points: 4245 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2010 at 10:22pm
There is a throw differece between a CC cable and bass boat.I think it is 10" vs 7" all else being the same.
You can use a "standard cable" and it will fit, and it will turn the rudder BUT........It will not turn as sharp to port.........Just did one in the shop,

Buy the stuff that came on the boat, from someone that knows CC,quality aint cheap.
boat dr

1949 Dart
1964 American Skier
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Grand Poobah
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Thanks for the info guys...I'll do some more checking and see if Karen can get me one in the next few weeks.


Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

According to White Lake Marine's online store, all boats from 93-97 used the same 19.5' steering cable. Its special in that its a special Teleflex part (not a universal cable), but theres nothing special about the SNOB.


Tim,thanks for clearing this up. Looks like the one in their shop is around the same price as what Karen expected. The weird thing is the dealer thought it'd only be 150?

You guys think the difference would be in quality of the cable?
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My understanding is that most later model CC's have an XX.5 cable, and a proprietary throw to them.
Mike N

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According to White Lake Marine's online store, all boats from 93-97 used the same 19.5' steering cable. Its special in that its a special Teleflex part (not a universal cable), but theres nothing special about the SNOB.
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N3 Boatworks

Bruce was the parts guy at MWCC forever.
Mike N

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Thanks Mike, do you have any contact info?

Just got an email from Karen. She said we'd need a special cable for the SNOB. I'm guessing due to the windshield and dash being moved back. Makes for a pretty pricy cable, but I guess thats the luxury of having an open bow!
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Chris    I bet Bruce Foutz does.
Mike N

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Anyone know the correct length for a 96 SNOB?

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