Spindle Replacement??

I can't remember what the spindle/axle looks like on my trailer. Is the spindle replaceable or not. Mine are pitted and I'm considering either replacing them if that's possible, or going with some speedy-sleeves. However, for the cost of the speedi-sleeves I could get new spindles.

1993 CC trailer, single axle.

doesn't matter that the spindles are pitted they are not set up for roller bearings, they are set up for tapered roller bearings so the race is in the hub and that is the important surface for the bearing. So unless the bearing is loose fitting on the spindle you don't have anything to worry about. But you do need to worry about where the lip-seal for the hub rides towards the rear of the spindle. If that is smooth and free of pitting your good to go if not get a speedy sleeve and call it a day. If the bearing is loose on the spindle get a speedy sleeve for it to correct the problem.

buy a new axle

Glen,
Yes the spindles are welded in and the reason I mentioned the torch. (oxy-acetylene). The weld is usually blind IE: a hole in the axle tube filled with weld to the spindle. The complete weld needs to be blown out.

I went down this road with my original trailer and ended up just selling it and replacing it with a new trailer. The problem I ran into was I couldn't find a replacement axle with the correct drop. I was looking into having an axle made with the drop but the price was around $700. I didn't feel comfortable having a new spindle welded on and some guys told me it would be difficult to get it on perfectly straight and may end up wearing the tires unevenly. Once I added up what it was going to cost to have an axle made and have the trailer refurbished... it just made more sense to replace the trailer.
I think I may have had a new spindle welded on and refurbished the trailer if I didn't pull the boat long distances, but I do, and the peace of mind knowing I have two good axles with sealed hubs and 4 disk brakes has made my travels better and keeps the wife from worrying

Hollywood wrote: ^^ I'd be more worried about the truck! LOL

Ha, ha HW!   I figured it would be Eric bustin my balls about the truck!

Or you could try this spindle seal same idea as a speedy sleave but made for this application.

xjglen wrote: So then.. the spindle slides into a blind hole in the axle and then is plug-welded form a hole runnig perpendicular...so the plug-weld itself bares no load...the plug weld just keeps the spindle in place. Is this correct??

Glen,
The spindle doesn't go in a blind hole but just into the inside of the axle tube. Then yes, the hole in the tube is plug welded to the spindle.

I'd give that Bearing Buddy seal a try. Sure would be easier plus they do make a good product.

Not sure the suggested bearing buddy seal is going to do the trick, you still have a lip seal riding on the old journal that is pitted, it's only adding an o-ring basicly. The first piece that goes on just puts a finished surface over the face of an unmachined rough finished surface so the o-ring, so it's going to still blow past the lip seal and over the o-ring, but that's just my designer instinct kicking in.

I have them but have not taken them apart to see how they look. Part #1 in the pic is cup shaped to fit over the old seal surface.Then the oring goes on between that part and the bearing to seal the spindle to that cup. Then the oversize seal runs on the outside of the cup. You put pressure on the bearing buddy and the oring just keeps the grease from going out between the spindle and where the cup meet.All but one size is under $13 one is 21. I think it's worth a try, if it works great,alot cheaper than having a spindle replaced only to rust out again.

So...can anyone tell me with certainty that this system works then?
If I used this system would I need to run bearing buddies?? I'm not a fan.

79nautique wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote:     79nautique wrote: Not sure the suggested bearing buddy seal is going to do the trick, you still have a lip seal riding on the old journal that is pitted, it's only adding an o-ring basicly. The first piece that goes on just puts a finished surface over the face of an unmachined rough finished surface so the o-ring, so it's going to still blow past the lip seal and over the o-ring, but that's just my designer instinct kicking in. Gary S wrote: I have them but have not taken them apart to see how they look. Part #1 in the pic is cup shaped to fit over the old seal surface.Then the oring goes on between that part and the bearing to seal the spindle to that cup. Then the oversize seal runs on the outside of the cup. You put pressure on the bearing buddy and the oring just keeps the grease from going out between the spindle and where the cup meet.All but one size is under $13 one is 21. I think it's worth a try, if it works great,alot cheaper than having a spindle replaced only to rust out again. Gary, Take a look and post a picture if you can. When our master designer made the above statement, I just couldn't believe they would design/market a seal upgrade and then use the old spindle seal surface!! well maybe the picture isn't to scale but don't see how an o-ring smaller than the sleeve's O.D. is going to ride on that surface or for a lip seal with a smaller I.D. is going to ride on the same surface so it must not be to scale but then if it is to scale it's going to be exactly the way I discribed it would POS waist of money not going to fix the problem. These are design with the intent that the spindle and the sealing surfaces are good, not to repair a spindle, but what the hell do I know, ever designed a liquid cooled rotor in an AC induction motor or even seen one? you don't use lip seals that's for sure.

Chris,
Let me get this straight - you want to put liquid cooling in a trailer spindle?

79nautique wrote: FYI it's not an up-grade but an additional part for the bearing buddies to work properly. Not to repair a bad bearing/seal journal.

This may be very true. We'll see when Gary opens the package for a better idea of how the seal works. You are correct that the exploded view leaves allot to the imagination.

79nautique wrote: FYI PETE hewitt, floe, shore station.. Research try it sometine...

I already did but stated the frame sizes in general terms and admitted that. Maybe you didn't read the responce thoroughly. I thought you were going to list all the sizes by manufacturers!

79nautique wrote: ever designed a liquid cooled rotor in an AC induction motor or even seen one? you don't use lip seals that's for sure.

79nautique wrote: might see what you can find for AC induction motors too.

Oh but I'm very familier with the water cooled AC induction moters with hands on experience. We've got several older large variable frequencies that use water cooling. These were designed back in the early days when the PWM/voltage/frequency control was very crude plus inverter grade insulation wasn't around so they needed to be kept cool. 2 are even running on 2300 volt. We even have some large eddy current drives that are water cooled. 50 tons (600K BTU) of cooling tower to handle the load.

79nautique wrote: NOT water and not a stator, oil cooled rotor not the stationary stator windings.

Chris,
Did I say stator? No and once again you are reading into what you want to gain for your personal advantage. Sorry that I wasn't more explicit for you to understand and should have mentioned they are equiped with rotary unions.

The "hands on" I mentioned, involves having several of these drives apart!!

xjglen wrote: If I used this system would I need to run bearing buddies?? I'm not a fan.

I figured that,thats why you have a '93 trailer with bad sealing surfaces and I have a '69 that just needed them
Why don't you just ask bearing buddy and see what they say?

Pete and Chris, the instruction picture is the same as the one I posted above. You install that cap shaped sleeve which the outside becomes the new sealing surface,then the o ring goes on the spindel.You then put the hub on with the supplied seal and when you set the bearing clearance the o ring is then between the inner bearing race and the sleeve to keep the grease from going thru where the sleeve and the spindel meet. Seems to work. I just thought it would be something to try,no welding, no removing of the brakes and can even leave the boat on while you work on it.