79 Nautique rebuild?

Good info for the guys Monty,like the pour spouts no more hit or miss with a new cans.

79TiqueRebuild wrote: Does anybody have any suggestions or ideas for attaching gas line and wiring harness along the stringers? I believe it originally had cable ties with holes and screwed into the stringers. I found some ties that will work but I hate to put screws into my new stringers.

Monty,
We all hate putting holes through the nice epoxy/glass into new stringers but sometimes it's needed. It's a PITA but for holes, the recommended procedure is to drill the hole, inject CPES with a syringe and then when putting the screw in use 5200 in the hole.

Does anybody have any suggestions or ideas for attaching gas line and wiring harness along the stringers? I believe it originally had cable ties with holes and screwed into the stringers. I found some ties that will work but I hate to put screws into my new stringers. My thoughts were some type of small screw with a plate on the back that I could epoxy to the stringer and possibly glass tape over with screw sticking through then attach clamp and put a nut on it.Does this make any sense? Or should I just use screws and inject cpes ?

Thanks for the pointers guys.That injectable foam looks great. I was not going to foam but I feel in these areas it will help support the air and cable ducts and battery box.I feel it will be sealed good enough water won't get in. I had already ordered the pourable kind of foam should be here Thursday. I will probably tarp and put a heater in the boat to raise the temperature while I pour and while it cures. My pour will probably be a multi layer pour also I'll make a mess for sure.
Keegan, I used a 2x8 Douglas fir for my pylon support but tied it in to both primaries and secondaries. Then am going with 3/4 exterior plywood with mat on both sides Epoxied down and 3 layers of tape on all joints. Monty

Nice pics and work! Forgive me if I missed it, but what kind of lumber are you using around the pylon? I can't decide if I want to use solid wood or plywood there, but leaning towards ply. I believe 2 layers of 5/8ths were original to my boat so it was really thick. Since plywood has layers running in different directions, it would offer strength in different directions. I could see solid wood cracking from one week spot in the board. I also plan to foam the bow around the hoses. Let us know what you decide to do and how it goes.

Monty I found with the foam I used as long as you have blow/fill holes around 3inch in size well spread over your cover board you should be OK, but the foam has some power when its going off so some supports in the battery box would be a good idea, as for setting the battery box you could pop some screws from the top of your cover board into the flange around the box if no flange epoxy some tabs to fix to then after you foam unscrew to remove the cover board.

Think its best you play with the foam first to see how much it expands, when I made my block of foam first time it lifted the lid with a 28lb on it, second time less foam and 56 lb on the lid it just held this was with no blow holes.

Keep your shop nice a warm when you do foam to get the max out of the foam and for long time after it set or you will have sink back, also watch the vapors as its not good to breath in.

Great work on what I can see Roger.

Monty like the pictures of your new work and see you have added a notch for a pylon timber to fit into,that should hold it well,a good idea on pre cradle boats.

Thanks Gary I hope this is my last.We'll see what happens in the next 4 years.

Got to do some more work on the boat.I got drivers main bedded down.
I used the dishsoap and water to wipe clean my expired work.
I am starting to understand about the rounded edges.Live and learn.
Thanks Greg

Roger, How many gallons of epoxy before I get hooked?
One thing that concerns me is how well the epoxy will bond to the pvc pipe
I plan on using for my air ducts. I really like your glassed duct work.

Monty, great to here your news and now back on the boat ,like the diving belt as a weight, not sure how cold it is round your way but Greg rigged up gutter from the drain plug under the boat to the yard drain so he could use a hose to rinse off.

Keep the pictures coming looks like there are a few 70s boats in rebuild.

After waiting since April, We finally have a contract and received my order from US composites.They pack the mate3rials very good I might add.
But they only ship you what you order. I overlooked cabosil so whats another week.

I Started by bedding the rudder port base.


Then tried a main stringer one thing I found is that at first I didn't mix the epoxy thick enough. I was worried it would setup too quick. Ha Ha
After mixing it thicker I still had some ooze out on steep angles but I found a sheet of wax paper helped hold it in.


The holidays and a head cold got me of past my 24 hour window so I guess I will have to wash down with soap and water. Is there any particular kind of soap to use and do I just rinse with a wet rag and towel dry?

Ah the don't fully bed the stringers school of boat repair rears its head..

That is not all nonsense they are talking in that book, however I wouldnt let it phase you. For the most part your hull is relatively thick and you dont run your boat on rocks and your trailer is full bunk and well constructed so the bunks are located correctly in relation to the stringes. Additionally your hull will have foam so an acute flexing by the stringers is not very likely.

If you need to fix a sailboat or a racing boat give me a call and we will talk about foam bedding teckniques. Anyone who read my 83 floor thread closely might note some of the adjustments I made to eliminate the foam.... extra hull reinforcement on the stringers well tapered so as to not create a stress concentration, and the additional supports I used were not bedded and much less layering was used to attach them. All overkill but I like overkill...

Monty,
It was just confusing with your posting a picture of your platform in the middle of your CPES/stringer project!! Keep going as it really looks like you've got the basic idea on the stringers down. Fantastic!!

Keep the CPES to the stringers and off the Teak. The stuff (Teak) is so oily that no "finish" really performs. Some (like the Epifanes )will last for a season and then fail. Stick with a oil and look for a synthetic. I do not honestly know of any finish for Teak that works better than a oil type.

Monty,
Keep putting the CPES sealer on first coat until it won't absorb anymore. Then the next day after it's "kicked" (solvent evaporated and the thermal has cured the epoxy) give it one more coat. Then your good to go with the next step - normal epoxy layup on the stringers. The CPES is great stuff!!!

What's the picture of the platform? did you put CPES on it too?

Monty,
I have done my seats twice in the twenty plus years that I have owned the boat. The drivers seat takes a beating with the beading that is stitched into the seat. Wet skiier sits down to drive and the thread rots.Water runs down through the foam , the plywood delaminates and the star nuts no longer have anything to bite into. Best results have been Westing the plywood base completely and securing the upholstery with 3/8" stainless staples. You might have to use 1/2" on the corners where the material piles up. At Home Depot the "Arrow"stainless or monel staples are wrapped with a bullet proof tape to prevent pilfery. To the best of my knowledge stainless is available only in 1/2" width staples.

Cool, someone still using a library! What's the copyright on the book?

I have a couple of books on fiberglass and that rigid foam trick isn't in either.

Super nice job on the dry fit!!!