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79 Nautique rebuild?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2010 at 1:56am
Originally posted by 79TiqueRebuild 79TiqueRebuild wrote:

   
Keegan, I used a 2x8 Douglas fir for my pylon support but tied it in to both primaries and secondaries. Then am going with 3/4 exterior plywood with mat on both sides Epoxied down and 3 layers of tape on all joints. Monty


Sounds solid to me!   
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2010 at 11:15pm
Does anybody have any suggestions or ideas for attaching gas line and wiring harness along the stringers? I believe it originally had cable ties with holes and screwed into the stringers. I found some ties that will work but I hate to put screws into my new stringers. My thoughts were some type of small screw with a plate on the back that I could epoxy to the stringer and possibly glass tape over with screw sticking through then attach clamp and put a nut on it.Does this make any sense? Or should I just use screws and inject cpes ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2010 at 11:35pm
My foam arrived today. Its in the Dreaded one gallon cans.

Does anyone have any tips on pouring from gallon cans? I really struggled with the cpes it seems I spilled more than went in the container till I got down a ways. Thanks, Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2010 at 8:39am
Originally posted by 79TiqueRebuild 79TiqueRebuild wrote:

Does anybody have any suggestions or ideas for attaching gas line and wiring harness along the stringers? I believe it originally had cable ties with holes and screwed into the stringers. I found some ties that will work but I hate to put screws into my new stringers.

Monty,
We all hate putting holes through the nice epoxy/glass into new stringers but sometimes it's needed. It's a PITA but for holes, the recommended procedure is to drill the hole, inject CPES with a syringe and then when putting the screw in use 5200 in the hole.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2010 at 12:39am
I didn't get any physical work done on the boat but did some searching.
I found this on Rot Doctors site.I bouught my cpes from Jamestown and it didn't come with the spouts. I will try and make some out of plastic though. Has anybody used these?


We provide two free disposable pour spouts with each 2 gallon unit of CPES and L&L Resin--one for Part A and one for Part B. Simply fold and attach to the can rim, leave on and dispose with empty containers.


Also ran across this link on working with pour-able foam. I will feel more comfortable when I attempt it now. Monty
working with pourable foam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2010 at 9:19am
Good info for the guys Monty,like the pour spouts no more hit or miss with a new cans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2010 at 10:46am
Would this cutlass bearing fit my boat? cutlass bearing Or would it be best to buy from g2marine? Thanks, Monty

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 1:59am
Got the foam poured in the two areas I had decided to foam. The rest of the areas have drain holes and I will not foam.






Test fit of plywood before cpes and coat of matt.




Got my cutlass bearing and used all thread an some washers to get pull into place. used a small drill bit to dimple where the set screws go and blue locktite on set screws. (Thanks Eric).


If anyone could has a picture of how the battery door is hinged/mounted I would sure appreciate it. Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 7:16am
Monty the battery hatch I have is just a piece of ply with carpet on top then trimmed round with Ali T section so it drops in the ply floor snug, not sure if it had a screw too will check over the weekend.

She is looking good now soon be back on the water, like how you use the cups A & B good idea Roger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 10:18am
Thanks for checking on that Roger. My next question would be on where to get the aluminum channel the lid sets in? I would like for it to be close to original.

I used the A & B to measure out the foam and then mixed them in empty epoxy jugs that I cut the tops off of. Lowes gives away paint stirring sticks.   Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 10:18am
looking good, dont but that plywood to tight! in this case loose is better
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-02-2010 at 11:05am
Monty, here are some pictures of the battery lid,its made from 1/4 ply with a 1/2 inch ply frame cut out of one piece with the trim screwed around the side,now looking at it the trim is S/Steel, you may be able to find something at a big DIY shed S/S or Ali and just miter it round
It is just a snug/push fit in the hole.
I know you seen it before but don't forget to cut some off cuts of floor ply and fix under the floor to fix the seats back in.
Have a great Easter Roger.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-02-2010 at 9:09pm
Thanks Roger your pictures really help. The door I removed was just a piece of plywood with rusty hinges!
I had visioned that the trim was mounted to the floor and the lid rested in it. It makes more sense and much easier find (I hope) a piece that will mount to the lid.

Looks like another decal will need to be replicated...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-02-2010 at 11:30pm
Looks great! You are moving fast. I am working out battery box details right now. I bought from Rot Dr and got the pour spouts. They work really well. I kind of laughed at them at first but they work great.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 12:06am
Roger, Does this look like it is what I need to go on the battery box lid? I might also use it for the removable section. Monty


Aluminum T moulding
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 7:29am
Monty,great find that will work the old is 11/16 across the top and 1'inch deep,the shape of the top is almost the same.Roger
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 10:59am
Do you guys think that molding will bend around a tight radius (1-2") corner? I dont see it happening, but maybe Im wrong. I need some battery box trim as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 11:26am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Do you guys think that molding will bend around a tight radius (1-2") corner? I dont see it happening, but maybe Im wrong. I need some battery box trim as well.


Tim,
I agree that the T moulding will not bend even if you had the tooling for it. It's a pretty high temper aluminum. Notice the original is stainless steel. You can see the rust around the weld from carbon precipitation.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 11:42am
Thats what I suspected Pete... any recommendations on something that would work?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 1:07pm
Tim,
On my Tique, I ended up using the T molding but I mitered the corners. I didn't like the way the lid fitted with the wrapped around the edge carpet. I'm surprised you didn't notice the non original miters!! The lid is all the way forward and the front edge is under the kick panel so the T molding is on 3 sides. I used the smooth top from McMaster. Drilled and countersunk for oval heads on the top into the lid side.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 4:58pm
Had another look at the battery lid trim and Pete is right it not S/S tried a magnet on it and stuck well, I think its made of tin plate and it's made in one piece a bit like a tin can,would take some tooling to do now, some more pictures.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 5:55pm
Roger,
It may be 400 series (martinsitic) grade stainless. It will attract a magnet and still have some corrosion resistence. The weld area really shows the "red" rusting which would be very typical especially since I doubt very much if the piece was ever passivated. Yes, the toolong would be extensive. I'd say it was roll formed first into the basic T shape and then the corners bent.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 9:30pm
I was at my brothers house last weekend and was discussing trim. He had used this when he built his teardrop camper.flexible t moulding
He said it bent fine around his doors. But the radius around the battery box will be alot tighter. I has happy to find something similar at taco, They have a distributor near here. I may just go with something like this.
vinyl t moulding
Don't worry Pete your secret is safe.
Thanks for all the help.   Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2010 at 9:21pm
I have a Question on the seat brackets. I marked them when I removed them but I think they were wrong. I would think the 4 screws would go on the front side of the seats. Here is a picture of the brackets and how they were oriented. I'm trying to put blocks on the underside of the floor to screw into. Thanks, Monty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2010 at 9:29pm
It really doesnt matter, its a cosmetic issue only. Despite the difference in the number of screws, the brackets are dimensionally symmetical.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2010 at 9:31pm
Ok Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2010 at 9:35pm
Keegan,
I put the 4 screws forward figuring all the load from the person leaning backwards goes to that end. Of course if you turn the observers seat facing the rear, it blows that idea!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2010 at 11:05pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Roger,
It may be 400 series (martinsitic) grade stainless. It will attract a magnet and still have some corrosion resistence. The weld area really shows the "red" rusting which would be very typical especially since I doubt very much if the piece was ever passivated. Yes, the toolong would be extensive. I'd say it was roll formed first into the basic T shape and then the corners bent.


Impressive metallurgy knowledge there Pete.You are well seasoned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2010 at 1:03am
I will soon be dealing with the same issue. I didn't know if the brackets came this way or if the previous owner drilled and extra set of holes as a result of the soft floor. I was going to locate the 4-holes front on the driver and passenger and I made the floor batten 3 inches to better accommodate. I didn't realize that they where symmetrical. If you are concerned just drill an extra set of holes on the other end.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-16-2010 at 1:32am
I agree with Pete's thought. Put the 4 screw end to accomodate the load. If the passenger is predominantly sitting one direction, figure for that load.

I am not calling anyone's passenger a load. Especially the SHW's. It is merely a technical term.
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