No Super Sucker needed

Chris,
Thanks for the proceedure. I guess I've been wasting the stuff through the years!

I already had the 262 at home as well as the 290. With my last order to McMaster for the bolt, nuts, some sheet gasketing, etc. I ordered the 243 which is medium and considered removeable. That's what I plan on using.

262 is removeable and really not permanant. It just needs to be heated to about 450 F which actually is below the tempering temp of steel. We do it on a regular basis here at the plant on a couple of assemblies. Never had a issue and we re use the fasteners.

eric lavine wrote: I wanna know how 79 came up with the "R" and the "TM" symbol

just cut and paste

Moving along but I didn't get the trans back together. I forgot that the output shaft sun gear is at work waiting for me to press it on the shaft and it goes in next!!
So, I continued on with more small stuff.


I got the oil pump (in front on right) rebuilt with a new plunger spring and ball bearings for the check valves courtesy of McMaster! Faced the check ball seats and fabbed a new bronze pick up screen. It took some time to form into the cup shape and solder to it's base. The "super sucker" (front left) I rebuilt with a new rubber plunger and new stem packing.

Here's the PITA front main seal. It's a rope seal (remember I got the Gortex to put in it) but not the easiest to get in there, with the gaskets and the Permatex all at one time. The split brass housing is also the front trust bearing for the crank - tight fit!! The actual brass split housings needed some work too. The hubs are riveted and soldered to the thin brass backing plates. There were a couple of spots where the joint was "cold" soldered. I ground/cleaned them out the best I could used a acid flux but I still worried about one spot. I ended up getting the JB weld out again!!



I went looking for period correct hose clamps. I found some NOS but the guy gets $30 each for them. I need 6 so it's on to plan "B" which is using the old two wire type. This is what they call a "Sherman" clamp:





Besides these chores, I continued on with the wire wheeling and cleaning up remaining parts. Fasteners are taking quite some time. Some needed the hex's ground because of rust. No, I can't run out and buy some of these original fasteners. All hex's are heavy heads (larger) and new heavy bolts start at 1/2" size. Others are cheese heads and that's not because they are made in Wisconsin!!! See the front main seal and you'll see the heads look like a wheel of cheese.    

Pete I'll look for some clamps like you need if you post a pic of the ones you want.Have 3 drawers full of clamps from the old shop.A minimum ID would help too.

Bob

Great work Pete. Looking good!

Gary,
I looked at the tower style "Wittek" clamps and I seem to remember finding that they weren't used until the late 30's. Correct me if I'm wrong as you're into the tractors more that I am. It's a alternate! I did find the site you linked to. Lots of tractor stuff out there!!

The two wire with the stove bolt is the other alternate I mentioned. They will take some work too. Since they don't come small enough, I need to modify the threaded anchor point on the wire by rolling the "pig tail" back on it's circumference.

I've got my fingers crossed that Bob will open up one of his drawers and find a cache!!

Pete,I moved the clamps to the lake last fall.Not going this weekend Trey has a flat track race in Wichita KS.I'm pretty sure I can cover you on the clamps but will be 2 weeks till I can look.I have a couple of boxs of square nuts if you need any of those.

Bob

Gary S wrote: HW,I've got this one------                                                              Munday wrote: Pete,I have a couple of square nuts if you need any of those. Bob

Gary,
You must have been sitting too close to HW at the last Chicago Beers meeting!! Good thing you weren't right next to him!!

Bob,
Your efforts are appreciated. Thanks. The couple weeks sure won't hurt me. I still need to find a carb and deal with the water pump. I gave up on the original pump. The gears and housing were so worn that every single wear surface would need to be built up and re machined. I got my hands on a old Sherwood gear pump that's still in good shape however will need mounting and drive shaft modifications.

Bob,
I started working on the Sherwood gear pump I got from the friend. The original pump was face mounted and this one is foot mounted so a simple angle bracket will do the job. Then it's some minor lathe mods to the shaft end to mount the gear drive. I'll get a picture posted of the results. Thanks for the thought.

One of the interesting things about this old Sherwood gear pump I have is it's herringbone brass gears instead of the more common straight cut gears. The herringbone gears were a short lived attempt to improve the efficiency as well as increase the operating life of the typical gear pump. Then, when they got better at making a rubber impeller it took over because it drastically improved the operating life of the basic pump even though the impeller itself became a maintenance item.

Thats a nice job.Blends in very well,much better than the pump I have.What are you looking for in carburation?

Bob

I got the trans back on - then off - then back on again!! The first time I forgot to install the bolt and spring assembly onto the planetary brake band. It's got to go on before the trans case. I'm glad I'm using non hardening Permatex!!

I thought I'd post a couple pictures of the tail end of the trans because the seal is interesting. It's old school but very fitting with the era. I cut off half the picture below but it shows part of the compression seal. It's inside the flange in my hand and looks like a toilet flange wax ring!!! The inside flange bolted to the trans case has the output shaft bearing but notice its outer face is tapered. The outside flange is tapered as well and the packing ring goes between both. When the outside flange is tightened it compresses the compression packing. Same principle as our prop shaft and rudder shaft packing.



The sealing surface is actually the outside surface of the hub on the output flange. Here it is assembled.

Eric,
Close!! It's Detroit Diesel Alpine Green! I found out that's the color Universal used back then. I'm sure the Alpine Green was around before GM started using it on their diesels!! I started painting some things today that need to be done pre assembly like the backside of the flywheel. The color matches real close to some old paint chips I saved.

my second guess was Alpine

Roger, Thanks! I'm having lots of fun with this project. It's certainly a challenge because it's really not a unbolt, send to the machine shop and bolt it back together with new parts. The only problem is it's keeping me away from other projects I should be doing. Of course you always go for the fun ones rather than do things like work on the house!

I sure hope this thing fires up!! I'm probably going to get a non original carb just to get it running since finding the original is turning out to be difficult. I'll find one eventually but it just may take time!

Pete, Have you ever posted a picture of the launch? Like to see what you've got ahead of you regarding the hull.