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Ignition Coil Specs

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2010 at 6:12pm
Originally posted by athhud athhud wrote:

Great! I was really afraid that we wouldn't have anything in common and would have to cease communication!


Just wait - you may get some comments on leaning out that engine and running split point plugs in it!!!


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2010 at 6:22pm
your really going down the wrong path with your suggestions.

leave the jets alone. It will not have any effect on the plugs firing.

So to test the coil you check for Continuity for the primary winding, pos neg teminals.

next check for Continuity for the secondary winding, secondary tower to the neg post.

next you check for shorts so if you have Continuity it's shorted.

test neg post to secondary tower,

check pos post to secondary tower,

check neg post to case,

pos to case,

secondary tower to case,

if no Continuity is found no shorts coil has now been tested and is good.

next verify you have 9v with key on and measuring across pos and neg terminals of the coil if you don't have at least 9V you have a wiring issue. Also the starter relay does not bypass the ballast resistor and feed 12V to the coil during starting it's not a car it's a boat and why only one terminal is used on the relay. Crock of dung if you think otherwise.

next step is seting the point gap with a feller gauge to get you close to the proper dwell angle. next you have to start the engine and set the dwell if you don't have a dwell meter then you don't need to be using points to start with and need to upgrade the system to electronic.

Next you set timing.

next you adjust the carb's idle

next you recheck the timing since you just lowered the rpm and changed it. repeat idle and timing adjustments until they are both correct.

Now go enjoy your boat.

If it doesn't run right you have a bad coil, points or condensor or all of the above.

Checking for resistance does nothing and is a huge wasite of time unless you are fine tuning a high perfromance engine and want the max out of the ignition system and since most don't even know what changing the resistance of the coil does it's better left alone.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athhud Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2010 at 7:39pm
Not up to speed on sarcasm are we?
My solenoid does bypass the ballast resistor, while starting, because I wired it to do so. Why do you keep assuming that the engine isn't running properly? I can assure you that every thing is in spec, because I have personally tuned every part of the engine myself. By the way, the handy little fluke 88v can be used to measure dwell (you just have to run a quick calculation in your noggin )

Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2010 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Also the starter relay does not bypass the ballast resistor and feed 12V to the coil during starting it's not a car it's a boat and why only one terminal is used on the relay. Crock of dung if you think otherwise.


Indmar's are wired to bypass on start and PCM's aren't!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2010 at 8:40pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Also the starter relay does not bypass the ballast resistor and feed 12V to the coil during starting it's not a car it's a boat and why only one terminal is used on the relay. Crock of dung if you think otherwise.


Indmar's are wired to bypass on start and PCM's aren't!!


Chris on this one you are wrong, Pete you are half correct.PCM now has a wiring diagram that uses the "R" term to supply a full 12 volts during cranking.
There is a improvement in starting by using the "R" term even on a electronic ignition.Took PCM several years to adopt this practice again.
Ignition upgrades will include, dizzy, ballast, coil , protection module and a new solenoid with "R" term.If you think that EI gives a hot spark at start allow the solenoid to bust that coil with a full 12 volts.........BIG BLUE ARC...........1" or more gap...........     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athhud Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2010 at 8:54pm
Makes a cold start so much mo betta!
Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2010 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by athhud athhud wrote:

Makes a cold start so much mo betta!


I would like to know the values of nominal vs jumped. I would guess 25 to 30 percent hotter spark........
Just did another in the shop a couple of weeks ago.Instant start after heat soak was biggest improvement.1976 SN w/PCM 351 less than 300hrs.
Boat stock and unmolested, It came with the jumper wire taped into the harness and a 3 wire solenoid.
After the dizzy upgrade it still did not crank as easy as Karen's stroker, amazing what a simple solenoid change with the addition of that wire will make........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athhud Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2010 at 4:34am
Yeah, last year my neighbor was talking up his new electronic ignition system at the ramp. He insisted that I get one. After my '86 with points fired up on the first try, after sitting up all winter, he didn't think his new ignition system was so hot... With the jumper wire and properly maintained points, it is hard to justify an electronic ignition.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2010 at 4:54am
WRONG     There is no substitute for HI VOLTAGE.....The points will be fine,just saying there are just better ways to spark that plug.

1949 CC Dart original points and condenser,the 61 year old spark plugs looked good, but changed them along with the plug wires.Plug gap is .025, basic 1940 technology.

We live in the modern electronic age, bring the old girl up to speed.The idle change is worth the investment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athhud Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2010 at 5:29am
If it ain't broke, don't fix it... Until this little glitch, I have never had a single problem with points ignition. I don't have any experience with EI in the marine environment, but I haven't read any stellar reviews that warrant confidence.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:05am
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Also the starter relay does not bypass the ballast resistor and feed 12V to the coil during starting it's not a car it's a boat and why only one terminal is used on the relay. Crock of dung if you think otherwise.


Indmar's are wired to bypass on start and PCM's aren't!!


Chris on this one you are wrong, Pete you are half correct.PCM now has a wiring diagram that uses the "R" term to supply a full 12 volts during cranking.
There is a improvement in starting by using the "R" term even on a electronic ignition.Took PCM several years to adopt this practice again.
Ignition upgrades will include, dizzy, ballast, coil , protection module and a new solenoid with "R" term.If you think that EI gives a hot spark at start allow the solenoid to bust that coil with a full 12 volts.........BIG BLUE ARC...........1" or more gap...........     


sounds like an update for the older boats and not OE unless it's a late model PCM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:30am
Originally posted by athhud athhud wrote:

If it ain't broke, don't fix it... Until this little glitch, I have never had a single problem with points ignition. I don't have any experience with EI in the marine environment, but I haven't read any stellar reviews that warrant confidence.


Andrew,
There's some threads where I've talked about going 28 years on a point set without problems! I've preached the issue of keeping the point set quite a few times vs: going with a conversion module. I really feel the conversions are marketed/pushed on people as one of those "should have" items but really shouldn't! They are nothing but "bling"!!! Something goes out with the module out in the lake and unless you have a spare, you're stuck. With a point set, you can always clean them up to make it back. Performance gains are none for a conversion. Starting maybe but a tuned up boat does wonders too!!! If someone really wants to dump the points, then the only way to go is with the complete distributor conversion.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2010 at 11:31am
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

sounds like an update for the older boats and not OE unless it's a late model PCM


Both as I have learned.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athhud Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2010 at 4:52pm
I completely agree Pete! My soldering iron doesn't work in the middle of the lake, but my flat head screw driver, fine file, and feeler gauges do!
Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2010 at 1:02am
I'm having a very similar problem...79 makes the direct statement that you should have @ least 9V @ the coil. I do not...I only have 6. What should the voltages be on each side of the ballast resistor? 12 and 9? I am seeing 10 and 6.
"I don't know what the world may need, but a V8 engine's a good start for me"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2010 at 10:02am
Originally posted by Dank Dank wrote:

I'm having a very similar problem...79 makes the direct statement that you should have @ least 9V @ the coil. I do not...I only have 6. What should the voltages be on each side of the ballast resistor? 12 and 9? I am seeing 10 and 6.

Check the voltage at the battery first. A good fully charged battery will have about 12.5 volts. If that's good, check what voltage you get on the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor. It should be real close to the battery voltage. If lower, go back to the ignition switch and check the "bat" terminal. That too should be close to the battery voltage. Keep tracing/checking volts all the way back to the battery. You're looking for a resistance causing a voltage drop caused by a bad connection.


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