No Super Sucker needed

Gary,
I looked at the tower style "Wittek" clamps and I seem to remember finding that they weren't used until the late 30's. Correct me if I'm wrong as you're into the tractors more that I am. It's a alternate! I did find the site you linked to. Lots of tractor stuff out there!!

The two wire with the stove bolt is the other alternate I mentioned. They will take some work too. Since they don't come small enough, I need to modify the threaded anchor point on the wire by rolling the "pig tail" back on it's circumference.

I've got my fingers crossed that Bob will open up one of his drawers and find a cache!!

Great work Pete. Looking good!

Pete I'll look for some clamps like you need if you post a pic of the ones you want.Have 3 drawers full of clamps from the old shop.A minimum ID would help too.

Bob

Moving along but I didn't get the trans back together. I forgot that the output shaft sun gear is at work waiting for me to press it on the shaft and it goes in next!!
So, I continued on with more small stuff.


I got the oil pump (in front on right) rebuilt with a new plunger spring and ball bearings for the check valves courtesy of McMaster! Faced the check ball seats and fabbed a new bronze pick up screen. It took some time to form into the cup shape and solder to it's base. The "super sucker" (front left) I rebuilt with a new rubber plunger and new stem packing.

Here's the PITA front main seal. It's a rope seal (remember I got the Gortex to put in it) but not the easiest to get in there, with the gaskets and the Permatex all at one time. The split brass housing is also the front trust bearing for the crank - tight fit!! The actual brass split housings needed some work too. The hubs are riveted and soldered to the thin brass backing plates. There were a couple of spots where the joint was "cold" soldered. I ground/cleaned them out the best I could used a acid flux but I still worried about one spot. I ended up getting the JB weld out again!!



I went looking for period correct hose clamps. I found some NOS but the guy gets $30 each for them. I need 6 so it's on to plan "B" which is using the old two wire type. This is what they call a "Sherman" clamp:





Besides these chores, I continued on with the wire wheeling and cleaning up remaining parts. Fasteners are taking quite some time. Some needed the hex's ground because of rust. No, I can't run out and buy some of these original fasteners. All hex's are heavy heads (larger) and new heavy bolts start at 1/2" size. Others are cheese heads and that's not because they are made in Wisconsin!!! See the front main seal and you'll see the heads look like a wheel of cheese.    

eric lavine wrote: I wanna know how 79 came up with the "R" and the "TM" symbol

just cut and paste

Chris,
Thanks for the proceedure. I guess I've been wasting the stuff through the years!

I already had the 262 at home as well as the 290. With my last order to McMaster for the bolt, nuts, some sheet gasketing, etc. I ordered the 243 which is medium and considered removeable. That's what I plan on using.

262 is removeable and really not permanant. It just needs to be heated to about 450 F which actually is below the tempering temp of steel. We do it on a regular basis here at the plant on a couple of assemblies. Never had a issue and we re use the fasteners.

8122pbrainard wrote: Chris, I never really knew there was a recommended procedure. I usually put it on both and then run the screw in and out a couple times to make sure the thread locker is on all the treads!! Did I flunk threadlocking 101?

well yea you did, kinda waisting the product, but on a blind hole let it drip on one side of the threaded hole in a straight line so to say, then insert the bolt, the air forces it back up around the thread as you screw in the bolt. On a thru hole just apply a line of the product starting a couple threads up from the end of the bolt and your good to go. No need to run it in then back out again and re-inserting, you've basically wiped it clean and have decreased the effectiveness of the loctite. It cures by the lack of air so it needs to fill the space between the threads for it to cure, by inserting removing and reinserting the product is thinned out and creates gaps so there is always air present so it doesn't cure.

FYI if you plan on ever dis-assembling the rod caps you don't want to use the red stuff aka 262 it is perminate.

Here's one for you,

What is better when dealing with a blind thread, appling loctite to the holes threads or the screws threads?

apply it before, don't use the wicking stuff very thin, you might as well not use any if your going to use the wicking version.

eric lavine wrote: on rods I always loctite, thats me though, never loctite on mains because they are stationary. i think some of the loctites are good to 350 degrees.

Eric,
Do you use the loctite that is designed to wick in after assembly so it doesn't affect the torque reading or do you pre loctite and use the torque multiplier for lubricated/coated threads?

The self wicking (apply after assembly) is considered a "medium" strength. I have it at home but along with the grade 8 bolts I'm ordering, I'm also getting the 262 loctite. It's considered "high" strength, 300 degree and states it's resistant to oils.

All of the loctite brand thread lockers have a temp range up to 300 except 1 which is 450 but it seems to be for large bolts.

normally a standard nut torqued shouldnt loosen, on rods I always loctite, thats me though, never loctite on mains because they are stationary. i think some of the loctites are good to 350 degrees.
damn Pete, i do see the basic similarities between Joe's and Paragon's. I did not know Paragon went back that far

High temp locktite?

Eric,
The trans isn't a Paragon but rather a Joes!



I sure wish I had found this cross section view BEFORE I put the crank and planetary in the press and broke the housing!!

BTW, I had asked you if you knew how far back Paragon went. I found this picture from 1917 showing a Paragon in one of their adds. This was in the early days when the trans's were "add-ons", not cased and were simply put in line with the prop shaft. Even more alignment with the good old wood wedges!!

Brian,
Yes we have wire machines as well as machining centers. Thanks for the offer The problem is really how much time do I really what to spend on the old pump. The old housing could be rebored for the gears and bored/bushed for the shafts but then it's the gears! We do not have the gear hob so we're talking having a set of custom oversize ones made or I go out and buy a hob!!$$$ If I can't find the rubber impeller to fit and see if I can get the original housing to work, then I have a friend who has already offer to give me a NOS Jabsco gear pump of the next generation. Mounting would be the only project as they were foot mounted whereas you'll notice in the pictures the existing was face mounted.

It will be interesting to see if Depco comes up with anything.

I've got several choices/options!!

Can't find a rubber impeller that will fit. Looking over some rubber impeller pump, it looks like the cavity ID. is about 1/8" smaller than the impeller that goes in it. The existing gear pump cavity is 1&3/4" so I've been looking for a 1&7/8" impeller. Thickness (depth of cavity) is 1". I'll keep looking because I feel the conversion to rubber is a great idea. Besides, I don't have much hope in Depco coming up with parts. Another alternate is to take a newer style Jabsco gear and modify the mounting to fit. Of course that wouldn't even look original!!!