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Engine Temp

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:22pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

My question is this, if the impeller is burnt up, or pretty well worn down, will you be able to tell which way the blades are supposed to be "combed"?

Brian,
Just look at the direction of rotation of the pulleys/belts and you'll see which way the blades are "combed".

Now, if you don't get them correct, they will flip. Even Depco pump in their impeller replacement instructions states this. However, I can't imagine it does the rubber much good!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:28pm
well while watching the pulley might help, you need to pay attention to the set screw on the side of the pump and make sure it's facing the same direction before and after the RWP is removed from the bracket, otherwise the pump can be put on backwards and the pulley will still rotate in the same direction.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2010 at 4:32pm
They will flip, I did it once, and yes for those wondering it was on purpose. I'm with Pete though, it can't be good for the blade to do that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2010 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

well while watching the pulley might help, you need to pay attention to the set screw on the side of the pump and make sure it's facing the same direction before and after the RWP is removed from the bracket, otherwise the pump can be put on backwards and the pulley will still rotate in the same direction.

Chris,
We were discussing which way the blades go (combing) and not a backwards housing install. Yes, it's important too but hasn't come up - yet!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2010 at 12:34am
I'll keep an eye on the installation of the pump.

So, from Hollywood's earlier post, a bad impeller could cause it to run hot (180) but not totally overheat? Does the circulation pump pull some water without help from the raw water pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2010 at 12:58am
Originally posted by TX Foilhead TX Foilhead wrote:

It did work, but the boat running a steady 190 or so leaves little time for watching anything but the temp guage.   

Man that hot to me.. I run between 150 to 155.. Thats normal temp, isn't it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2010 at 1:51am
Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:

Originally posted by TX Foilhead TX Foilhead wrote:

It did work, but the boat running a steady 190 or so leaves little time for watching anything but the temp guage.   

Man that hot to me.. I run between 150 to 155.. Thats normal temp, isn't it?



Agreed, that is too hot. 150-155 is fine. The 143 in the Mustang fluctuates up and down as the stat opens and closes.
My 502 holds at 160* no matter what.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2010 at 2:13am
I was poking around on ski discount marine and noticed that they advertise an impeller removal tool.

Is this necessary when replacing impellers? Also, it looks like the gasket is a separate item. Is this typical?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2010 at 3:30am
I pull mine every fall just to let the paddles relax for the winter. It comes off easy, never needed a tool or felt I was forcing it. Maybe on a boat that sat for years in a barn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2010 at 3:47pm
I think the tools migt be useful on the Vdrives where your working blind and don't have room to pry it out with something like a screwdriver, not needed for a DD.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:26pm
Thanks, I won't bother with the puller tool then, sounds like unnecessary money to spend.

I can borrow one of those hand held, laser temperature readers from a friend of mine this weekend... or just buy one.

I was thinking I'd check around the engine to see if it's just my gauge that's off. What spots on the engine do I want to check to get my actual engine temperature?

Is the thermostat housing the accurate spot, or other places along the cooling system, block, manifolds etc.?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:45pm
I would just run the gun everywhere.
Stat housing will heat up when it opens. Otherwise it has cool bypass water from the waterpump blowing past it. Intake manifold is where you can verify your temp gauge is accurate. Exhaust is always good to check, too. You should be able to leave your hands on your exhaust manifolds when the engine is running.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2010 at 2:56pm
Thanks for the tip.

I'm pretty the exhaust manifold temperature is good. I can leave my hands on the exhaust manifolds for a good 30-40 seconds anyway, with the engine fully warmed up and running. I'm not sure if I could keep them there indefinitely, but they're definitely not hot to the touch, just pretty warm.

I'll check the intake manifold temp with the gun this weekend, and everywhere else too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tag962 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2010 at 11:46am
After reading this post I am a little worried about my 1990 196. Can someone tell me where the impeller is located so I can check it? I believe it is in the housing on the corner of the engine closest to the driver seat??? I am not a mechanic by any means, I hate to sound dumb but all of this talk is over my head! I just finished putting a new floor in my boat last night, what a nightmare!!! I would like to check the impeller before I go out in it tonight. It will be the first run of the season for me so I am very excited! Living in upstate NY & loving the water, makes for very looooong winters! Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2010 at 12:35pm
30-40 seconds is good. If you cannot touch them at all, you have problems.
Tag, follow your thru hull water intake hose. It goes through the trans cooler to the impeller pump, then to the circ pump.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 1:31am
Hi Tag,

You're right on the location. The impeller is inside the raw water pump, which almost looks like the equivalent of a mini power steering pump on a car.

You can probably take your test drive without worrying. If you're temp guage reads normal, you're good for a bit. The impellers are a normal maintenance item though.

I haven't done mine yet, so I'm talking from more what I've read than what I've done. I found a good article hear though, I posted it earlier too:
http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm

My friend had done a similar job on a Mercruiser stern drive, and gave me the tip of using a large radiator hose clamp, to sort of tighten down/squish the new impeller to fit it into the housing. That's all I know for now, hope to report back soon with a real, first hand facts. I'm guessing if you replaced your floor though, an impeller should be no sweat for you. I think it rates much lower on the Do It Yourself Capability rating scale.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 3:42pm
you guys act like it's a major hassle to get the vane in the pump, all you have to do is dip one side in then rotate it as your pushing it to the center and then down, jacking with hose clamp or anything else is just a waiste of time and you'l end up screwing things up. The vanes are flexable come on, get some hand and arm strength and be a man or find some one that is not a wussy to do the job for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 3:49pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

The vanes are flexable come on, get some hand and arm strength and be a man or find some one that is not a wussy to do the job for you.

Even I can do it!!! Hose clamp??? Next thing you know someone will get out a small ring compressor!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hawktique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 4:19pm
I have to agree, just stick it in!!! Pretty simple.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 4:47pm
Squeezing it in my hand works just fine for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 4:51pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Squeezing CQ in my hand works just fine for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 5:59pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Squeezing CQ in my hand works just fine for me.


LOL

I think that works for most people.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2010 at 6:41pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Squeezing CQ in my hand works just fine for me.


Yep, looks just like this.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2010 at 12:30pm
Alright, alright, I get yeah

My friend who suggested the hose clamp runs Mercruisers. Maybe Mercruiser impellers are stiffer?

Or, maybe guys who run Mercruisers are wussies? Well, that's what I'll tell my friend
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2010 at 4:22pm
My brother and I used a hand held laser temp gun and went all over the engine while it was warmed up and running. The warmest place we could find anywhere was 125 degrees; that was one of the hoses coming out of the circulation pump. Well, the exhaust manifold flanges were hotter, but the rest of the exhaust manifolds were fine.

I'm leaning towards a general ground issue on mine. There are other gauges acting funny, like the fuel gauge. Also, using the horn or lights makes things act funny. Also, turning on the ignition (not cranking just turning it on) takes a little gusto away from the blower motor.

I was happy to find the motor was not running hot anyway, I'll have to sort out the ground issue though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2010 at 6:06pm
I'd like to know at what temperature these marine mufflers would start to burn up. I think there may be a lot of unecessary worrying about the engine temp. Think about regular car temps...regularly going over the 200° mark.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2010 at 11:06am
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

I'd like to know at what temperature these marine mufflers would start to burn up. I think there may be a lot of unecessary worrying about the engine temp. Think about regular car temps...regularly going over the 200° mark.

Craig,
I always use the analogy of a stretch limo with the AC on full blast out in the sun in the desert of say Nevada. Hot yes! Problem no!

I doubt the exhaust/mufflers see anything over 175 degrees after all the cooling water is mixed in. That's well within the limit of the glass muffler(s). They only go when there's no water. Of course we know no water is what kills the RWP impellers too!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2010 at 12:28pm
^^^ Exactly what I'm thinking Pete.

I keep an eye on the temp gauge, especially after first start up of the day, and I'll watch to make sure 1 of the pipes isn't spewing out a ton of steam, but you won't find me using the risers as handwarmers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2010 at 3:54am
I did the impeller last weekend. It was pretty easy. I did it with the boat still in the water. I got the kit that included the gaskets and stuff. I wound up using Babe's Boot butter to lube it up. It would have popped right in pretty easily anyway.

The old one wasn't bad, but it had enough little spider cracks in the rubber vanes that I didn't feel like replacing it was a waste of time/money.
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