S.O.S

OK, got the manifolds from Jeff, thanks Jeff! Just tested them and no leaks on the inside. However, there are some pin-hole leaks on one, the side I need of course, to the outside.



I only saw two small holes leaking, the pic looks deceiving. I'm sure this can be welded. Is it a sign of more corrosion from the inside?

I hate to ask but can I shove some JB Weld in the holes? At least to get through the season?

David,
It looks like it's been welded before and whoever did the welding had some problems. Aluminum can be tricky if there's corrosion present. It really needs to be ground down to good metal. Some of the alloys don't like welding ether. I'd take it to someone that feels confident with welding aluminum.

I would say that that is the worst that can happen with this possible jb weld fix. Although, what happens if any jb is there when you go to have them welded? Will that interfere with the welding work to be done?

See how the area with the pin holes is smooth? The manifold looks to be sand cast, and that is why it has a semi rough texture to it where it isn't leaking. Also, notice the grind wheel marks? Definitely been welded, and as Pete says, aluminum is a little tricky to weld. I won't touch welding aluminum, I take it to my welder guy.

I've used   HTS-2000 brazing rods several times and have had good luck with them, you must have a set of torches though, propane won't cut it.

You can find small quantities of it on flea bay.

Finally pulled the intake manifold off yesterday. Here is what I found. Of course the gasket ripped up when removing so I can't really tell if there where any installation problems. I'm sure your eyes are better than mine.

David,
Ether way on the gasket.

I'm sure more trained eyes will be along but to me it looks like something didn't line up with the intake install. One end looks like it bottomed out on the top of the block while the other end didn't. This may have prevented proper compression of the manifold gasket to the heads.

8122pbrainard wrote: David, Ether way on the gasket. I'm sure more trained eyes will be along but to me it looks like something didn't line up with the intake install. One end looks like it bottomed out on the top of the block while the other end didn't. This may have prevented proper compression of the manifold gasket to the heads.

From what I remember, there was a good 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap between the manifold and block on the ends. The instructions called for a 1/4 inch bead of RTV on the ends with no gasket.

If you have a 1/4 gap at the front or back something is wrong and you can't correct it with a 1/4 bead of rtv, you'll always have water issues in the oil.

dri fit the intake before you add the gaskets or RTV and find out whats going on. I think the heads are on the wrong sides maybe. if you look at the notch in the intake gasket should line up with the blocks wall that goes side to side, currently it's forward and it shouldn't be, this leads me to believe there are issues with the heads.

They are not, the tab being referred to interlocks with a tab on the head gaskets not with the heads or the block. I dont really see any leakage from around the water passages in the pictures that would cause the milky oil but tough to tell without being there.

The tabs on the intake gasket seem to fit right up with the tabs on the head gasket.

When dry fitted, the manifold seemed to fit right on the heads with no problems.

The old manifold had the cork gasket material at the block ends with RTV top and bottom. Wonder if I should use those that come with the fel-pro kit to help fill that gap? The Edlebrock manifold instructions say no.

I can't see any definite water leakage signs either but again what do I know.

All the bolts were tight, although I will say they all seemed a bit short to me, like they were just grabbing the threads. Don't know if that would matter since they where torqued and still tight.

The intake manifold bolts do not have much thread engagement, not even full bolt width on most cases.. but it is plenty .. dont use longer bolts they will bottom out or otherwise cause trouble.   

block them both off

it used more on an automotive applications and lets hot exhaust gases pass through and heat the base of the choke stat for a manual style choke stat that gets heated from this passage. With an electric choke stat it is not needed thus you need to close it off to prevent the heat build-up in the intake under the carb.

Well I'm not sure where I stand. Cranked her up and she ran great, nice and smooth. Ran for a good 30 minutes, in the driveway, stopping every now and then to check the oil. Dip stick was always nice and clean.

When I drained the oil, there was definitely water in it. It almost seemed like water draining rather than oil, not near as milkshakey, more like skim milk. I'm using 10w-30 for the flushing so it's pretty thin to begin with.

Don't know if the water is the left over mess and I need to keep flushing or if there is another problem that persist.

Checked the compression before I started her up. All plugs out.
1. 180   5. 185
2. 155   6. 170
3. 190   7. 190
4. 180   8. 130

I put some oil in number 8 and retested bumping it up to 135. Figured it was the rings.

Do I flush again and see if it improves?

Hay Vondy! retorque the manifold also just as a precaution. good luck!