S.O.S

Will Sea Foam or any other product help speed up the water removal?

Hay Vond! I did, check yours out. be careful with seafoam very good product, just dont put to much in, will loosen up stuff you didnt even know you had. hope you make the water by the 4th if not give me a call and head north good luck!

David,
Looks like you found the problem! The lake test will tell for sure. You may not get it up to temp in the yard. No load. The lake test will tell and confirm your water/oil issue.

Back again. Water in oil.

Last weekend had her out twice. Ran fine. Oil nice and clean.

Brought it 4 hours to my brothers house. Checked oil before we went out and looked good. Had a few hours of lake time and she ran great. Had a nice run on the way back, huge smooth lake. She was around 3000 rpm and running nice. Temp was good, etc. Put her in this morning, checked the oil and there it was! Water once again. On the PCV valve as well.

Pulled the plugs and no water in the cylinders.

I have no idea! Makes no sense to me why it was fine for two days of boating and now I'm back where I started.

Now I have a 1600 lb paper weight to tow 4 hrs home.

The consensus between the two mechanical engineers and car restorer is it's the head gasket. The theory is that the extra drive time on the lake Friday was enough to heat up and expand whatever problem was caused by the overheating. Guess the only next step is to pull the heads.

Thoughts?

While the heads are off have them checked for flatness. A long shot but you never know!

Before spending any money on the heads, have the pressure tested. Then you'll know if they are worth working on them or need replacement.

But first, the intake needs to come out again, so first recheck there.

Good luck.

Pete I have a hard time believing it's the fitting of the intake. Not saying it's not possible but that thing sure seem to fit nice and snug. I did a dry fit and saw no problems. Was very careful placing it back on, used 6 guide on bolts, placed a good bead of RTV right on the edges of the water ports. Torqued it down immediately in the right sequence in several passed, re-torquing after an hour. It just all seemed to fit just right. I'll take a lot of good pics when I remove again.

Does it not seem strange that there was no trace of water in the oil after two lake trips?

Thanks guys.

what Pete means is that you are not getting the water ports correctly aligned.

What heads are on those H&M engines?

The heads will have stampings (raised cast numbers and letters) on them.    IIRC, these are in between the valves and an be seen by taking the valve covers off.

Decking (milling) heads does not require the valves to be taken out.

the heads on H Ms are closed chamber DOOE castings one of the best stock heads for ford till the gp 40s. if you come across any, stock pile them just sold a used set for 400 bones. sorry to hear your still having the proublem vond. jeff

The D0OE's have to be worked on but they will preform better than gt40's if you know what needs massaged to get them there.

horkn wrote: The date codes are under the valve covers, but the ID code is underneath, near the push rod holes. I highly doubt D0OE heads came on a 302.

I doubt you know what the hell your talking about. So please go away as your wrong again just like on the FE thread.

horkn wrote: proof?

have you actaully ever held a set in your hands DA no you haven't so please STFU. They came out in 69 on the 302.

1970 D0OE heads on 302 is an unconfirmed application. No one has proven they came stock on one. Did you personally take a pair off a factory unmolested 302? If so, what model? You are not talking about a boss 302 are you?
I've been around a lot of ford muscle cars.