S.O.S

vondy wrote: As much as I hope Chris is right I don’t think I installed the intake incorrectly. The guide post causing things to not line up does not make any sense to me. .

Ok the end of the guide post is x distance from the mounting surface, is that guide post perfectly straight? no it's not, is the thread hole taped so that the end of the guide post is perfectly aligned with the thread at X distance? no it's not.

the intake has sloped sides, the guide pins can prevent the sloped sides from aligning correctly because the projected zone above the attachment point is not the same as the zone for the threaded bore below the attachment point. The attachment point is the flat surface of the head where the threaded bore starts.

so if the guide pins are bent or the projected zone isn't within tolerance to allow perfect alignment of the sloped faces it gets wedged into place instead of mating equally. This will create gaps on one side or the other or the front end or back end causing vaccum leaks and water leaks too. In forty years of watching and installing intakes I've never seen anyone use a guide pin to install an intake, you want a hard one to do grab an early 70's olds 455 cast iron intake and use your guides, it'll bend them before you can shake a stick at it.

intakes can be screwed up very quickly when not paying attention to detail and using shadetree technics.

79nautique wrote: PAPA wrote: 79nautique wrote: PAPA wrote: Seriously doubt if the 69 mustang with a 302 had a DOOE-B casting head on it when it left the factory as that was a 1970 model engineering change. With all the head problems that they had in those days I would guess they easily could have been replaced very early on in the cars warranty years if you pulled them off a 69. I seriously doubt you have actually held a D0OE-B casting in your hand otherwise you would know that there are date codes cast on it as well, none of which are from the 70's. All of you can speculate all that you want but none of you have actaully had the heads in your possision or hands. Well one other person has but I doubt he looked that close at them, as I suspect his engine builder has all ready installed them on his engine. Chris, All I was saying is that heads with that engineering number cast in them (DOOE) were designed for 1970 and newer model applications. They may have been cast in a foundry anytime from 1969 on up. The engineering number for Ford basically tells what the first application of what that part was for. They can produce them with that casting number as long as they want if the design isn't changed. Hope this clears this up. John. your information is wrong I'm well aware of how the precieved coding supposedly is, but if you actually study the information you will see quite a few examples where it does not follow your coding. Again when you have actually seen the casting in question in your hands and when you understand that the casting number is not the date code then maybe you'll be up to speed and can speak on the same level as I do from first hard experience having owned, reworked and seen all of the casting markings on the heads in question including the foundry identification.

Don't want to beat a dead horse and keep getting this off track but I guarantee my information is correct. Speeking on your level and getting up to your speed will be tough, but I have been working with Ford part numbers for 41 years and I know what a engineering number and a part number is. Like I said earlier a DOOE-B number on a head was ORIGINALLY DESIGNED for a 1970 model application. END OF STORY.

PAPA wrote: David, Sorry to waste so much talk about nothing.Hope you get your problem resolved. John.

Think nothing of it, it's quite entertaining and keeps the thread moving.

David, that oil froth is totally disgusting. I can imagine how fed up you are about it.

Hopefully the head gaskets fix the issue. And please make sure to post the head stampings on here.


Kelis said it right.

"my milkshake brings all the boys to the yard"

ugh

Pulled the valve covers off this morning. Port side looks fine but the starboard looks like someone literally sprayed it with water. This is also the side that had the cracked exhaust manifold.








Here's the port side.

I plan on pulling the head tonight.

Here's what a guy my brother works with who rebuilds old cards thinks...

"starting to seem like a cracked head...water would be going into crankcase via push rod holes. That explains good running and no smoking."

If it is a cracked head what would you guys do? Find a used one, deck and replace gaskets on both, or just buy a new assembled pair from Summit?

Edit: just realized the prices on those heads are for each, not a pair. So more than likely I would try to find a replacement or buy the new unassembled ones.

vondy wrote: I plan on pulling the head tonight. Here's what a guy my brother works with who rebuilds old cards thinks... "starting to seem like a cracked head...water would be going into crankcase via push rod holes. That explains good running and no smoking." If it is a cracked head what would you guys do? Find a used one, deck and replace gaskets on both, or just buy a new assembled pair from Summit? Edit: just realized the prices on those heads are for each, not a pair. So more than likely I would try to find a replacement or buy the new unassembled ones.

First check what heads are on the engine, then you could find stock D80E or E7s for real cheap on Clearwater. I'd replace both, but you could just do one. You'll have plenty of power with any head on that little boat.
GT40s are an option too, but in your case I'd stop making "improvements" to the boat as you have stated it's not THE boat for you. Stop complicating yourself and start enjoying the boat for once.

Luchog wrote: You'll have plenty of power with any head on that little boat.

Luciano,you'd think so but you'd be wrong

High Vond! Looks like maybe a cracked head from pic, the one shot of block at top looks concerning as well. is it oil or just dirt from disasembly. sorry for all the bull happining with the stang. Jeff

Dont look for a crack, it most likely wont be visible. What you are looking for is rust from a water path where it shouldnt be any.
Look around the water passages to the intake valley, and to the oil return passages on the block, gaskets, and heads.

Too many unuseful pics over there, we only need to see the block and head mating surfaces, and both of the gasket faces.

After a few days off castings will start to rust, more on the surfaces that's been exposed to water.

On another note, what was the compression reading for that cylinder bank?

Can't really see any rust paths that look like they don't belong. Should I just take the heads to a pro and have them Magnafluxed?

When I checked compression before we got her back on the water a few weeks ago these where the numbers. 1-4 being the head that is off now.

1. 180   5. 185
2. 155   6. 170
3. 190   7. 190
4. 180   8. 130

After my latest discovery of water in the oil we checked and got a high of 155 and a low of 140. Average being 150. I did not right down exact numbers for each cylinder at that time. Must have still been in shock

Thanks for the help y'all!

Luchog wrote: magnafluxed or hidraulic tested YES!!!! spending money on new heads and stuff until all is checked NO!!!!!

$40 to clean and Magnaflux the pair. I'll try and swing them by the shop Monday.

Luchog I was done spending money on this boat months ago... or so at least I thought. The cheapest route now is the best for me. As long as it's done right.

Can these heads typically be repaired?

New developments.

Pulled the other head. As soon as the exhaust manifold came off water poured out of cylinder 8. First I thought it was the manifold but did a pressure test and looked good.

There is a rust trail from the water port to the cylinder on number 5.




Cylinder 8 is a bit rusty, I assume because there was water in there. There is also some gouging on the piston.




And... turns out my heads are different. Port side is from 69.

















Thoughts?

Thanks to ReidP here is a chart on Ford heads.Be careful,some of those late model heads will really lower your compression

I find that really odd that both Gary's and your HM 302's had different cylinder heads on each side.


I've seen a more recent head chart that has all the old heads and the newer ones on it. I think I posted it before, but it has all the ford small block heads, new and old with all the specs.

That mustang 2 site is missing out on the E7TE's and all the Gt40 models.