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jbear View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2006 at 3:37pm
Chris; No thanks necessary. Don't ya realize how many of us are watching and following and enjoying you workin' on this boat?

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2006 at 5:11pm
Well, I appreciate all of it!
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JEFF KOSTIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2006 at 7:20pm
    Great job Dave!! Glad to hear the mount is fixed!!!!!

Jbear, keep up the good work!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2006 at 7:58pm
Well, I finally got the shifter removed, so I can take off the vinyl on that side and repair the wood beneath.

I've also got the steering wheel off so I can take the dash off and begin rewiring it with the new gauges.

I'm going to repair rotten wood tomorrow, in the seat and that side thing.

I've been removing all the various things that are attached to the hull so that I can buff it up. Pretty soon I should be able to post "naked" pictures of my boat!

And, I almost forgot. A buddy of mine with a machine shop is going to build me a custom pylon - it's going to be a regular height ski pylon with an extension that slides over it for boarding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hawkeye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2006 at 7:46pm
Yea short of snagging a pylon out of a scraped boat its difficult to find one. Your buddy seems like a good pal esp. if he only charges you materials.

What sort of mount are you fabricating? or does your boat have the mount?

Oh and fix your link to Jack Russell Terrorists, you have terrorists spelled terrorsists. Great dogs though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2006 at 4:55pm
My boat has the mount in it. It just doesn't have the pylon. Never did, according to the original owner. The mount is 1" diameter, but I'm going to put in a 2" pylon, just because I think it looks cooler. And we're not going to use a rope ring - my buddy's going to turn a custom thing on the lathe for the rope. I'll post pictures eventually.

Thanks Hawkeye, the link is fixed. They are great dogs.

The boat is pretty much naked now. I'm trying to decide what to do with the dash - I might go aluminum, or I might just stick with the original wood-grained contact paper. The truth is, it doesn't look that bad with new gauges.
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JEFF KOSTIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2006 at 7:24pm
    Dave, always a pleasure to see ya workin on that cool boat. The pylon mount as you described I am assuming is the hole in the hull where its about a inch. Does yours have the floor bushing/trim ring installed in the floor? I ask this because the 74 has a smaller plyon than the 76. Both are original and the guess (have not measured them) is that the 76 has a 2-1/2 inch diameter, and the 74 has a 2 inch diameter.
     Keep up the good work!
                             Jeff...
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JEFF KOSTIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-20-2006 at 8:28pm
    Oh yeah, whats the purpose of the old rope ring with the 45 degree stub??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2006 at 5:33am
Originally posted by JEFF KOSTIS JEFF KOSTIS wrote:

     Oh yeah, whats the purpose of the old rope ring with the 45 degree stub??


Huh? Do I have an old rope ring? I did grab a cheap pylon on eBay, thinking it would work only to figure out that it was too short. I'm using it to figure out the location of the pin hole in the mount.

There's no trim ring on this boat. I'm going to have a custom one made. It's nice to have a friend with a machine shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hawkeye Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2006 at 12:40pm
Yea, get the dimension from the current nautique pylon stub, i think its one of the coolest looking around.

The old style ring w/ the finger works, but i think its just a pain in the butt, and no where near as functional, plus all the ropes now have loops perfect for doubling over a pylon stub.

Sould work out great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2006 at 3:14pm
Yeah, the old ring is history. I'm going to have the new style made.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2006 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by hawkeye hawkeye wrote:


The old style ring w/ the finger works, but i think its just a pain in the butt, and no where near as functional, plus all the ropes now have loops perfect for doubling over a pylon stub.



    What is the purpose of the finger on the ring?? I tried to ask that in a previous post, but I was unclear. My fault.

                                 Jeff...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2006 at 7:58pm
Just the old way we used to attach the rope. Through the ring, around the outside, and over the finger. If that makes any sense. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2006 at 8:24pm
I remember being taught that when I was a kid, but I could never do it the same way twice for the month I didn't have a tower on my first boat!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2006 at 9:22pm
    Dave, I see in the "patrs for sale" post someone has a 75 SN that burned and is being gutted. I was thinkin of you that maybe the pylon might be OK as well as the floor ring. You could then have your machine buddy build a new head. Might save some work if the price is right?????
                                  Jeff...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stang72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2006 at 11:27pm
Jeff...that pylon melted! I was hoping for the motor cover...which prob. melted first!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2006 at 6:27am
Ummm... that's a pretty hot fire if a pylon melts... Anyway, the materials to build a pylon cost $20.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2006 at 8:17pm
   WoW!!! That is cheap!! I need to purchase my stock from you as we pay crazy amounts for steel and aluminum. That pylon, being solid and hardened aluminum for 20 bucks is unbelieveable! Well, I guess it matches the ratio on what you picked up the SSmini for!

                                 Jeff...

PS How do you do it???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2006 at 4:13am
Well, first off I wasn't aware that the thicker pylons are SOLID. I thought they were made from tubes. I'm making mine from tubing.

I don't think I could make it for $20 from solid aluminum, but I don't really think it's necessary to do it that way unless you just like the tapered look of the soldi ones. Aluminum tubing should be strong enough, since most of the load is borne by the outer surfaces of the pylon. In fact, making a pylon from solid aluminum is actually kind of wasteful, now that I think about it.

That said, it is sometimes possible to get small pieces of bar stock from machine shops and metal suppliers below market just because nobody wants the small scraps. Usually these pieces are 6" or less though. Not all shops will work that way though. Usually it's the machine shops that will get rid of it cheap. The metal supply places aren't so generous.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2006 at 6:52pm
    Dave, you will certainly need to get some extra hard and thick tubing. Just make sure shes gonna be plenty rugged, because figure on how much cantilever above the floor. The pylon with a rope tied to it should be able to hold the boat back at full throttle take off. I never thought that until pulling several skiers or having tubers tubes go underwater. You are right in the fact that being solid doesnt give a huge difference, but it will certainly help from kinking at the floor. The aluminum is very "spring like" as I thought mine was going to hit the engine cover, then sprung back.
                                 Jeff...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 2:38am
Back in my college days I knew how to calculate the forces and come up with the right size tubing. These days I don't have that kind of skill anymore, so my pylon design is simply to make it possible to replace the tubing easily (pull two pins) if it bends.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 5:55am
Sorry to sound negative Dave but I think you're looking for trouble. Make it solid, I would be more inclined to design it so it doesn't bend than to come up with an easy way when to replace it when it does.

just my .02
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:35am
Well there are plenty of cheap add on hollow aluminum plyons out there, and some expensive hollow onese (flitepipe) but every one of them has supports up at the top that greatly (more than an order of magnitude) cut down of the forces the tube sees when compared to the cantilevered design in these boats. I would at a minimum if using hollow tube find myself an appropriate diameter steel tube to sleeve it with, no sense crushing the engine box while tryin to find out if the pylon is going to buckle at the floor joint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:50am
Fill the hollow tube with concrete and don't worry about it collasping or leave it hollow and most likely you will be replacing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 7:09am
concrete, I like it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 2:56pm
I'd go into the engineering of tubes versus solid, but frankly I don't remember it from engineering school. I do remember this though - solid round stock is only marginally stronger than tubes of the same material. In some configurations, it can actually be stronger (for instance, an elliptical tube is stronger in the long direction than solid round stock of similar dimensions).

Maybe I will dig up my old engineering books and calculate the thickness and diameter of aluminum tubing required to support the same static and dynamic loads of a solid one. Anybody have any ideas about the force exerted on a ski rope by a skier? Maybe this summer I'll attach a spring scale to my rope and measure the forces involved.

Okay, now that I think about it, the force on the pylon can't actually exceed the maximum force I can pull against the rope without having to let go. I bet for a 260lb skier (like me) that can't be more than a few hundred pounds. So, if I engineer the pylon to be able to support 800 lbs peak it would seem the odds of buckling would be pretty slim.

It would be interesting to make a pylon out of carbon fiber. It would be pretty easy to make a three ~ four foot piece of carbon fiber tubing that would support 3~4000 pounds without buckling. That would be cool - the stiffest pylon ever.

Do you really think a pylon could collapse fast enough to crush an engine box? That's a pretty dramatic failure. I would expect some small bending to appear first. What do ya'll think?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote trikeaholic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 5:39pm
I am going to try 2.5 dia seamless 6061 aluminum with a 1/4" wall. Strapped to the bow lifting eye, I highly doubt it will even think about bending.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:03pm
Sounds like a new episode of Mythbusters coming up. Actually I have no idea so I'm looking forward to the results.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dchris17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 6:21pm
Looks like Trike is going to be the first experimenter. I'd bet 1/8" 6061 would be strong enough for an extended pylon with a bow strap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2006 at 7:08pm
    The one major difference between the "tube" and "solid" is that the "tube" will buckle if stressed too hard (unless its real thick), while the "solid" will bend, and remain relatively strong after it bends. This is only true on material that isnt so hard that its brittle.
                                    Jeff...
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