S.O.S

either or doesn't make much difference just torque in stages and to equall amounts in a criss cross pattern starting in the center working outward like shown in the torque sequence.

Hey David like your new picture-
Someday when you get some spare cash,get this book.On the head bolts it does not say you can't reuse them,and before I went with the new heads,I had reused mine with no trouble.

Gary S wrote: Hey David like your new picture-

Thanks Gary. My sister-in-law took that the last time we were out. They were on their pontoon and we had their kids, giving them a ride in the fast boat. Used some app on her iPhone that gives it a blurred and over-saturated effect. Thought it was a nice action shot.

Unfortunately the last time the old Mustang was on the water

e-mail theses pics to me please

yes get some new ones for those they have corroided, almost looks like they are in a water-jacket but I don't believe any should go through one at all, do you remember which holes those came out of?

I assume these I have linked too before will be fine???

Fasteners

vondy wrote: I assume these I have linked too before will be fine??? Fasteners

Dave, Those head bolts will come with washers that are chamfered on one side. The chamfer goes towards the head of the bolt. Don't put them on upside down, should be an illustration with the bolt kit so take a look. The bolt has a radius where the head meets the shank and the washers are relieved to fit.

Well everything is cleaned up and ready to be assembled. I was going to install the heads but I don't believe my threads are clean enough. Most of bolts I can tread all the way by hand. But some start to tighten up before the last 3 or 2 threads on the bolt disappear into the hole, this is with the head off.

I think I need to get a thread chaser. Can't seem to find much info on what size these head bolts are. I believe 7/16??? We have a pretty good hardware store by work that might have one, if not, I'll order from Summit Chaser. Does anyone know the exact size and thread count?

Thanks!

Yep 7/16 - 14

GottaSki wrote: In a pinch, one can take an old bolt and cut a straight groove down the threads with a cutoff wheel. Beats waiting.

Well look at that, it worked! I was under the impression there was a bit more to a thread chaser but cutting a groove in the old bolt seemed to clean it out pretty well. Thanks for the tip! Now I can get those heads on tonight.

Well I have the heads on.

Now I have an issue with the rocker arm bolts. There are about 4 of them that do not want to easily thread on. Can I simply replace with a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store, or is there something special with these?

And what is the proper procedure for tightening these up? Obviously I will be compressing some springs.

Luchog wrote: dont forget to take that towel out your intake valley

I figured I'd just leave it in there in case I have another leak it would absorb the water and keep it out of the oil. Maybe I'll throw a ShamWow in there instead.

Sorry, I seem to mistype in the mornings, takes me a while to wake up.

I'm talking about the nuts, not bolts.

If his engine is really an early '68, first year 302, then the studs will be non-positive stop, and we'll have to coach him through it. Can't just crank & go.
After some initial setup I set mine following instructions with the engine hot & running.
One can tell by the existance of a shoulder on the stud. No shoulder means more coaching.

This what you mean by shoulder? Do I just tighten till it bottoms out?

Most of the nuts I can tread all the way down by hand with no rocker on the stud. The other 4 or so I would have to crank with a wrench to get them down. They feel a bit tight and I don't know how sensitive torque settings are here so I thought that might throw it off. If that matters. Again, this is just threading them on the stud itself without the rocker.