S.O.S

Vondy are you with the laptop on the shop? lol so you can actually follow up the progress and ask in real time?

I'm not worried about the nuts now since the studs are positive-stop. Maybe someone else is.

Just get some advice on how to check the lifter preload when torquing down and you should be all set.

Don't know if you guys can see these. I'm thinking they are supposed to lock but I really don't know.

So I got the nuts. All went on smooth. None seem like lock nuts. Does that concern anyone?

I have searched everywhere trying to find the proper tightening procedure but there doesn't seem to be much out there.

Do I just tighten down to the stop then torque? Or do I need to rotate the engine until the one I am tightening lifter is down? Or what?

Thanks guys! Once I get these tightened up I'll put the intake and exhaust on and be ready to fire her back up!

TRBenj wrote: Yes, you will want the cam to be on the base circle when you torque the rockers down. If you want more detail, do a google search for "setting lifter preload". Some of the procedures wont apply to you because of your older head design with non-adjustable valvetrain, but it might be good reading nonetheless. If you really wanted to dial in your preload properly, you may have to adjust your pushrod length.

come on it's bone stock, thighten them down and move on, the cam hasn't be removed the lifters haven't been removed either so all that is needed is for the push rods to be double checked for straightness and then the rockers torqued down.

HHHmmmm usually if that much has to be milled they are junk .010 is about max from what I have read.

79nautique wrote: come on it's bone stock, thighten them down and move on, the cam hasn't be removed the lifters haven't been removed either so all that is needed is for the push rods to be double checked for straightness and then the rockers torqued down.

Talk about your half-arsed... minimally you need to rotate around to the base circle when you tighten them down and check to see that you have no play and are not bottomed out. You need to do this to make sure you haven't got lobe wear or anything else that could have changed here.. we talk about the importance of ZDDP in the oil.. this guy has been running a low zink milkshake for a while here. I wouldnt make it rocket science on this engine...

Vondy.. based on the fact you dont have adjustable studs then you do have hydraulic lifters.. solid lifters would need provisions for adjustment beyond changing the pushrod length.   

Found this on setting lifter preload.

adjustments

vondy wrote: Since I took my lifters out briefly, is there a need for assembly lube? I coated with oil before putting back in, would that be sufficient?

David,
I feel you're ok as long as you put them back in the same spots. As mentioned, they are already broken in.

OK guys, help me out. Here's what I did, and Lord knows I don't know what I'm doing...

I tightened each nut until it bottomed out. Then I torqued to 20lbs. Turned the oil pump with a drill to make sure everything was flowing. Turned the engine by hand a few times. When the number 1 cylinder was on the compression stroke with both lifters down I took a straight edge across the head and scribed a line on both push rods. Took the torque off of the push rods and scribed another. At this point they were close to 1/8 of an inch apart. I retightened and did it again, this time the marks where just under 3/64 apart. I tried it on cylinder 7 and got about the same results. The gap got bigger once I turned the engine by hand and smaller if I loosed then retightened without turning the engine.

Am I doing anything right here?

Hopefully you are torquing each nut down when that lobe of the cam is on the base circle? You dont want to be torquing it down if its on the lobe (lifter isnt all the way down).

1/8" (.125") of preload is pretty excessive. The goal is .020-0.060", so even 1/16" (.0625") is on the high end.

Like I said, the motor should run just fine- and you shouldnt hear any lifter noise (this will happen if you have insufficient preload, but less likely with too much). Im sure there are a ton of motors that were bolted back together without so much as checking preload, but just be aware that somewhat shorter pushrods would be ideal.

81nautique wrote: Guys have we really determined if these are non adjustable rockers

Yes, I believe we have. This vintage SBF had stud mount (pressed in?) rockers that need to be torqued down to the shoulder. The only way to set the preload properly is with different pushrods (or a new adjustable stud system)... no shimming option like with the pedestals.

Are the nuts pictured actually locking nuts? I couldnt say for certain, but they look just like the ones that I pulled off a few older 302's- so they should be ok.

bolt them down and move on the variation is due to the fact your not getting consitant hyd pressure on the lifter, they have lost there prime to a degree for lack of a better term, assemble them and torque them and install the intake and finish the re-assembly.

Getting close. The plan is to have her assembled and running in the driveway Saturday. Will take her out Sunday assuming everything is clear. Scared to death I'm going to start her up and the heads are just going to blow off the engine

They were not painted before actually. If the plan sticks to redo the stringers this winter I will paint the whole engine while it's out.

I sure hope they are assembled correctly. I put the part of the gasket that says front to the front on both ends. Torqued it all like I was supposed to.