Teak Maintenance

Never, never , never use steel wool on teak. The rubbing action causes tiny little pieces of steel to be driven into the wood like splinters in your feet. They will just rust away. Instead, use brass or bronze wool or better, you can use a coarse "Scotch Brite" pad made by 3M company. They come in varying grits and are made of synthetic material. You can find these at any automotive paint supply house.
It's easy to get carried away with the scrubbing thing so before you start getting carpal tunnel syndrom from all that scrubing, make sure you have bleached out the wood with regular household bleach. Takes about an hour or two of bleaching. Then lightly scrub the wood with the pad with the bleach still on the wood. Once it's good and dry, try several layers of Amazon Teak Oil. Make sure you really get the bottom coated well too since it's almost always black from mold.
The platform on my Fish Nautique was so far gone I had to replace it. Prior owner used a pigmented "oil" on it. Never use that junk. It just makes your teak look like painted pine and once it starts to break down, it will look like hell.      

On my '79 I have a more yearly approach, I use to use TEAK Oil on my grid but I found I was having to re-oil it 3 or 4 times a year to keep the nice wet look. I would rather be cruising than rubbing oil on! So here is another approach Cetol Marine by Sikkens, which gives TEAK a nice translucent finish with a nice Honey appeal. I just redone mine two days ago, Good for the year ! Every season I sand my grid down with 100 grit and reapply 3 coats of Cetol Marine.

I'll agree with the advice on the varnish on the platform. Any suntan oil, motor oil, algae,
whatever and they will be very slick. A droped ski and the surface will be compromised' water will get under the waterproof finish and fog. That said I did my Martiniques platform with 120 and a random orbital sander. Finished with a mix of turpentine/teakoil/boiled linseed oil.
Steel wool is really iron wool in that it will rust. The steel you drive into the wood will discolor in time causing red or black stains.
DO NOT use raw linseed oil. It can take months to cure, sunlight causes it to darken to black over time. It is best used for garden toolhandles. Teak is hard, dense, oil rich wood.It takes years for it to take a finish, the oil in it keeps coming to the surface and driving the finish off. That said a 1987 boat with teak will have wood able to be finished. I used Helmsman spar varnish with UV protectants in it on the interior. It looks beatiful and its been 6 years and no maintenance has been needed. The platform get all sorts of abuse, and needs periodic oiling. Same mix, The terp thins and helps penetration then as it evaporates it draws the other oils into the wood. Wipe a gererous amount on wait 20 minutes buff the excess off and in a couple of hours it dries. I'll be giving it 3 or four coats at the start of the season then about once a month a rub with a damp cloth. Warning after using any of these finishes soak the rags in water and put them in a fire proof container outside until they are dry then dispose of. They will spontainiously combust.
Good luck

1time17

believe the tranny fluid, stored my
neighbors century last year in my
shop the overheard fluid dispenser
leaked all winter and did the teak
some justice, so im reaffirming pswann
suggestion

fredo68 but anyone having questions
on the teak my neighbor woodboy
is the on to ask fredo68

I used 60 grit and transmission fluid and got amazing results in less than an hour. The amount that leaches into the water is so minute compared to engines that I am not worried about a greenpeace ship pulling up in front of my boat and blocking my passage. Thanks for the tip!

I wouldnt drink teak oil,
Prevent spill from entering drainage/sewer systems, waterways, and surface waters. Use non-sparking tools


All about teak oil (msds)

I better get to the Depot and get some teak oil.I didn't know they had it....It's probably more environmentally responsible than trans fluid...

On the bottom of your feet.

That's a good idea, I might try a spot under the platform, I don't see how it would not leak off in the water but I'm game.

I've got to ask where that idea came from, Tranny fluid? Doesn't that make you wonder. I use the 3 step kind west marine sells.

I was told many years ago never to use steel wool anywhere near a boat. Those little steel fibers behind screws and such create long term problems. Any boaters supply outlet carries bronze wool, a few more $ but it lasts for years.

Duck Soup (aka) Lonely Nor'Easter

Linseed oil is a great perservative for the swim platforms. My 1982 "2001" platform is still in great shape with the original platform. "Boiled linseed oil" dries much faster than plain.

Oops, forgot one. I personally would pre drill any holes in the teak before installing screws. Teak is a soft wood but why take the chance in possibly splitting it. If you are taking the time to beautify your platform then take the extra time to do it right the first time. Besides what could it hurt???

I have a good teak swim platform that needs re-finishing. It has some graying and a few marks and dings. What is the best way to re-finish it? What is the best way to clean it? I have heard of oiling teak OR laquering teak - which is recommended?

Also, when I drive screws into the teak to mount it, is is necessary to pre-drill (it seems like soft wood)?