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Refinishin wood swim platform

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Swatkinz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 6:13pm
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Hey Steve, thats interesting. Like I said, RJ has had it on his platform and it looks good 4 years later (this will be year 5).

What did you not like about (what signs should I look for). You know the one thing it said you should do on the can, is cure it in the sun, which there is very little of that around here this time of year. So maybe I will wet sand and do one more coat on the next sunny day.


It gave my platform an artificial look. The color was too orange and didn't allow enough of the grain to show through. Admittedly, I did apply 2 or 3 coats of it b/c after the 1st and then 2nd coat I remember not being satisfied. I felt that another coat would maybe do the trick. The finish held up for 2-3 months before it started to wear/flake off in heavy traffic areas.

I wouldn't use it again, but if I did, I think I'd apply one coat and leave it alone to see how it held up with that one coat.

Like I said earlier, I've heard from many people that they had good results with it and I wish you well with it too. I could've very well used it wrong, but I'm not taking the chance again. Removing it from my platform was very tedious and took forever. I'm sticking with the tried and true despite the routine maintenance that it'll require.

My dad's thoughts on it...."don't they all look good when they're in the water?"

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 6:46pm
It does have an orangish tint, I will admit that, but then when it was varnished, it had an orange tint too... The flaking is worrisome, so I will have to watch for that. When I wet it down to wet sand, it definitely beaded up. We'll have to see how it turns out.

Your Dad is 100% correct!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:20pm
Steve,
There's a guy that was on the mastercraft site (handle was TMCNo1) who had a teak platform that was legendary with regards to the finish.   He had some instructions that were on that site that I followed.

They were almost identical to what you've posted about how you've done your platform. He used the same sealer and that's how I was turned on to it. He had great results and as I mentioned, everyone ranted and raved about how good his platform looked.

Nonetheless, mine didn't turn out the same. I've got it looking pretty good now. I'll try to take some pictures tonight after I apply the 3rd coat of oil and post here. I should've taken a before photo with the teak sealer on it so that you could appreciate the difference. Hindsight.

Anyway....good luck with it
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:40pm
I've been on a few scary slick platforms, kind of kills the purpose of the thing. An oiled look that still feels like wood is best but what you're all saying fades the quickest? I've never oiled a platform, mine is almost as white as Pete's hair but sure looks great in the water!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Swatkinz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:47pm
Hollywood,
I couldn't agree more. For me though, when I walk by the boat during the off season or when I'm not on the water, the grey/white look just isn't appealing to me. Makes me feel like I need to do something about it. I read somewhere that teak will last the longest and be the most functional when nothing is done to it. You must be on to something.
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 7:50pm
Oil it and figure out a way to keep it from baking in the sun. You just may spend less time and money doing that then stripping/sanding/sealing the thing over and over again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald80SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2011 at 8:55pm
I wish I had not put that sealer on mine last year. I think I have gotten most of it off now. My plateform also looked Mustard colored.

Donald
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2011 at 1:34am


I used some home made concoction that worked great. I can't remember what it was. I thought I got the recipe from CCF.com, but can't find it. I am thinking it was some BLEACH, and LIQUID LAUNDRY SOAP and scrub with STEEL WOOL, rinse and repeat. Then some Watco teak oil from Home Depot. It really soaked that up. Anyone know recipe, did I miss an ingredient? I want to help a buddy with his deck. It is a MC...so I could tell him to sand the crap out of it, then paint it with some latex, but that would be mean. Everything turned out great last fall. The proof will come when I drop her in the water.
Before

During

After (should have taken the shot outside in daylight)

A little shinny (probably soaked it up this winter), but you can still see the texture of the grain
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2011 at 2:14am
http://www.bertram31.com/proj/deck/after.htm

I did find this site. He uses 2 quarts of ammonia and 1 cup of Wisk with a scotch brite pad ACROSS the grain. He is dealing with a 31 foot fishing boat, so pare the ratio down (16/1)? If my 5th grade math is correct, 8 cups to the quart?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2011 at 2:28am
Started the process today using a boat armour unique teak kit i mentioned earlier I found on craigslist. I first removed the platform with my nifty makita litium hammer driver. Here is a pic as I started with the first product. It is an acid wash, very little scrubbing. When I put it on the gray all turned black. After about ten minutes of sitting the black turned a deep brown.



After rinsing from the first step.



Second step is a brightner, applied with a sponge and then brushed,re-applied brushed...for about 15 minutes, till the color was realativly uniform. This is after rinsing, and my guess of what it will look like when done.



The kit does not mention sanding, I may hit it with 80 grit when it is dry, Then I will start coating with as many coats as it will take of the teak oil provided in the kit.




How did that get in there, Easter is coming soon. How did an ugly old guy like me have two such beautiful daughters, must be my wifes gene pool.
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2011 at 11:11am
Dave, looking good on the platform. Not as cute as those two little ones, but looking good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2011 at 7:45pm
Here it is dry and guickly sanded with 80 grit.


and after 2 coats of oil. I could barely see a difference after it dried from the first coat.



For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2011 at 5:47pm
This thread is helpful to me, because I need to refinish my platamaform. The previous owner sealed my platform with something and the teak isn't able to breathe.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2011 at 2:55am
I am up to five coats 1 day apart, the fourth soaked in but I felt like I was just pushing the 5th around on the surface, I am going to let it sit a week and try one more. I really like the color, even the one wierd blond board in the middle.

For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2011 at 1:31pm
That does look nice. I read several posts here that recommend applying the Teak Oil on a warm day, in the sun. I guess the wood's pores will open up even more and soak up the good stuff. Might be a while before you have a 70 degree day in MN tho.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mglines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 2:26pm
I guess while I am doing other stuff to my boat I might as well redo the teak deck. When you take the deck off is it best to remove the deck with brakets from boat first? It looks like there is only 6 bolts(if i remember right) holding it on.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:17pm
Originally posted by mglines mglines wrote:

I guess while I am doing other stuff to my boat I might as well redo the teak deck. When you take the deck off is it best to remove the deck with brakets from boat first? It looks like there is only 6 bolts(if i remember right) holding it on.




Everything I read, said to take the deck off and to treat the bottom of the deck the same as the top. So I did slide the deck out of the brackets, then took the deck brackets (male) off and re-painted them. I even pulled the (female) brackets off of the boat and updated them. That way I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat. Took the opportunity to get new speedo pitot tubes from SKIDIM.com.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

The problem with removing brackets from the boat is that the top fasteners are not screws, theyre bolts with backing nuts, so its a 2 person job to remove them. They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Depending on how badly your platform needs refinishing, you might want to remove the brackets from the teak anyways. Its just a few screws either way (no sealant neccessary) so not a big deal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:32pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Tim,
You typed faster tan I did this time!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mglines Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 4:03pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

The problem with removing brackets from the boat is that the top fasteners are not screws, theyre bolts with backing nuts, so its a 2 person job to remove them. They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Depending on how badly your platform needs refinishing, you might want to remove the brackets from the teak anyways. Its just a few screws either way (no sealant neccessary) so not a big deal.


This is what I thought and why did not try to take the brakets off the boat. Thank you for this post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Tim,
You typed faster tan I did this time!


I was curious about the two different types of hardware. I had lag bolts in the top holes and long wood screws in the bottom holes. You think the PO replaced the nut/bolt combo with lags?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimSpangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 6:20pm
Both my 82 and 83 had lags in the top and wood screw in the bottom.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 6:24pm
Originally posted by TimSpangler TimSpangler wrote:

Both my 82 and 83 had lags in the top and wood screw in the bottom.

Fascinating. I believe Jimsport's Sport Nautique was the same.

Both my '79 and '90 had bolts on top, lags/screws on the bottom. I guess CC was inconsistent for several decades!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wacko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 9:51pm
My 80 has lags on the top and wood screws on bottom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 12:26am
Originally posted by mglines mglines wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:

I could add alittle silicone to the screw holes as I put the brackets back on the boat.

Uh oh, wait til Pete sees this!

The problem with removing brackets from the boat is that the top fasteners are not screws, theyre bolts with backing nuts, so its a 2 person job to remove them. They also need to be sealed properly upon reinstallation, using 5200, 4200, Life Boat caulk, etc. Silicone is NOT a proper sealant. This is not a very fun job. If you dont have any leaks in the transom from the brackets now, then I would highly recommend leaving them alone.

Depending on how badly your platform needs refinishing, you might want to remove the brackets from the teak anyways. Its just a few screws either way (no sealant neccessary) so not a big deal.


This is what I thought and why did not try to take the brakets off the boat. Thank you for this post.


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 11:28am
Silicone does not belong below the waterline.

3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 11:42am
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimSpangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 1:56pm
4 Coats of Star Brite teak oil and 3 coats of Watco teak oil.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweet77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2011 at 2:32am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

   
Originally posted by malcolm2 malcolm2 wrote:


OK, I am here to learn, so tell me the problem with silicone, and the benefits of the other stuff you suggested. Again, I have lags and screws, so it will not be difficult to "fix" my screw up...Unless I get the word that I need to replace the lags with nuts and bolts. Let the teaching begin.

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

Silicone does not belong below the waterline.
3M Marine Adhesives and Sealants

Malcolm,
Have you ever been able to literally peel silicone off a surface? Silicone bathtub caulking is a good example but it holds true with any of the silicones. It's adhesion is poor! The only place it's good for is when it's between two surfaces/flanges like a subsitute for a gasket and even then I'd suggest something like Permatex! Yes, you can say the platform brackets against the transom are two surfaces but the bolts and their holes are not. If there was a silicone under the brackets originally, I'd say most of it you were able to peel off. Try to get 5200 or 4200 off and you'll see the difference.

I hate silicone!!!




There are some types i dont mind
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