1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

David that's what I'm talkin about. I wouldn't want any stinkin mufflers in there either.

Can you PM me about how to get in touch with you. I'd like to check out what you have goin on since I will be doing this soon to the Nautique.

Jeff

David....just got your msg....

Keeganino wrote: David your progress looks fantastic. Good idea to throw the bell housing in there as a mock up. Now that you have the secondaries in, will your next step be to remove the mains? Once you get into the 8" and biaxial the material begins to overlap in the exhaust channel so you need both stringers down before you get that far. Makes me want to do another boat!

Thanks!

Take a look at that pic again, you can see I have the starboard main cut out ground down and the new one sitting in there ready to scribe. Just trying to get my distance between the two correct first.

Man I don't know if I'd want to do this again. Perhaps I'll have to wait till the satisfaction of finishing comes along. Right now all I know is I hurt from grinding and thinking.

Are you ditching the floor pan? Why? I would vote to keep it, and the control cables going down the side as well. Personally, Id add the upholstered pockets back in too. But thats just me.

You can switch the Morse if you want. Instead of 10' and 12' cables, you'll need two 17' ones.

Need some suggestions on how to handle this. As you can see in my pics, the exhaust is going to run into the floor. The plywood is as far back as it can go before it hits the exhaust, the pencil line right behind it is where my seat base starts.

I guess in the past the old fiberglass pan laid partially on top of the exhaust. It also didn't go back very far under the seat base. I'm wanting to close in as much as possible with my plywood floor.

Any thoughts on what I can do? Different pipes?

David,

Just say "no" to mufflers. You can do it.

No mufflers. What about copper? Cheaper than stainless?

What would the sound difference be like between the fiberglass and copper/stainless?

Pete,

I'll bet you a Moose Drool. Not a Spotted Cow.   

WakeSlayer wrote: Pete, I'll bet you a Moose Drool. Not a Spotted Cow.

Mike,
You're on!!

We have a Metal Supermarket by work. I'll drop by there and see what they got. Thanks!

David,

Let me know what you come up with. My brothers are Master licensed plumbers. I may be able to get you a break on the copper pipe.

Gary,   that is a Morse 2. Those are reversible.

Pete, I am going to make room to bring a Moose Drool just in case, but I have a feeling you are going to need to find an LQ that stocks in WI.   

As far as I know they are just fiberglass tubes. If there are mufflers in there they don't do much. I sure would not want it any louder.

My seat base is just short of covering it. Might could route out some of the ply floor bottom like Pete suggested. Going to make the removable panel span the exhaust.

David,

Mufflers are for wussies. Sell them. They will probably bring a hundred bucks for the pair.

Pete, I could be wrong but I do believe the big copper like that is usually type "K" and is suitable for more than just DWV. Type M is usually soft copper and prob. more expensive.

David, you can buy silicone 3" hose at 4 Star Hose Supply. They are located up around Harry Hines. It runs about $20 a foot. E-basic power or Jamestown Distributors may also have a good deal on the stuff. Silicone exhaust hose is much more flexible than the wire hose although much more expensive. It is also thinner walled with a higher heat rating. If you do have to go with the copper tubing, use the silicone hose to make connections and it should go much much easier than with the wire hose which is a PITA.

Also, the type "K" copper is thicker than the type "M" soft but has the same O.D. If you go copper, get the type "K" and bevel it as much as possible. Pack the tubing in ice and heat the hose. Should help a great deal.

If it were me....I'd buy stainless. Probably close to even money there anyway. And remember, mufflers are for girls. The boat is loud anyway. So if you're gonna be a bear be a grizzly

If you can find copper, great- it sure looks cool and sounds great. I cant imagine SS really sounds any different though. And its going to be cheaper too. Plus, since its tubing and not pipe, its measured by OD and will match the ID of the hose perfectly.

If you do decide to go with copper, dont worry about getting exhaust hose over it- it can be done. If you have to make any bends (like going from vertical out of the H-M snails to horizontal in the bilge) then I would highly recommend using corrugated hose. Anything else will kink, especially if its thinner and not reinforced.

You are correct Pete. Soft copper is also available in those wall thicknesses. I'm speaking from a local perspective because in this state, typically type "M" and "L" are used in soft applications. Type "K", although commonly used in refrigeration, is usually the preferred spec. for commercial piping applications inside a building here. Many times, that will be the way the local supplies run their inventory. So if he goes in and asks for Type "M" they may very well sell him soft copper in a complete roll. Talk about a PITA. It takes a couple of guys to unravel that crap. In the end, he can probably acquire the Type "K" hard for less money and with less frustration.

David and I only live about 45 minutes apart, so I'm speaking from local experience. I used to do the commercial takeoffs and estimates for my brothers when we had a commercial plumbing business together. I also personally held a Journeyman plumbing license at one point in my career. LOL...it's a subject for which I am not so proud to say, I have learned the hard way. Boy were they mad to see a roll of big soft copper show up instead of hard copper. They made me come help unravel it and I never made the mistake again.