'86 Barefoot Nautique 2001 |
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Posted: May-17-2011 at 7:29pm |
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OK, here goes. I'm newer to boating (through inheritance - I married into it) but am mechanically apt. My in-laws have an '86 BFN (grey/white/black with the large 2001 logo towards the stern and after a little bit of working on the boat last season (electrical) I am starting to bring it back up to snuff as I tend to be very meticulous about vehicles under my care. So, I apologize up front if these questions have been asked a million times - I've spent a few hours trying to find good info, but it seems like with this age boat it's harder to get the detail of info I'm looking for. Here goes...
1) The carb needs to be rebuilt. Not a problem, however I don't have access to the boat this week and would like to start ordering parts. Is this the 4150 Holley rebuild kit? And where do you guys get parts from? It seems like a lot of people recommend skidim. 2) Oil change. I haven't even attempted to look at how this gets done but since the motor sits down in the hull a little bit I'm assuming you need to run a drain hose somewhere? Type of oil / filter suggestions? This is a 454 I'm told and since this boat seems to be popular I'd like to restore it to as-good-as-new as possible. I generally run Ams in my cars/trucks/bikes - but am not sure if this should even be attempted in this age of a 454 (worried about leaks until I can completely tear it down and rebuild - not for another season or two). 3) The electrical system on this thing has seen better days. My thoughts are to redo the distributor and plug wires initially and then new battery and main and ground lines. After that I'm going to redo all the lighting wiring and add in some in boat LED accent. Again, what do you guys recommend for parts and since it seems hard to match parts up is there something I should be looking for to make sure, for example, I'm buying the right distributor, plug wires, etc? 4) Gauges. One speedo works of the two (I'm assuming this is for left turn / right turn accuracy). The dash is a little sad although none of the gauges are cracked. The ammeter and fuel gauges work but bounce around like they're on meth when you're not powered down. I'd like to replace them all on one hand but on the other I'd like to keep it as original as possible. It also seems like most boats only have one speedo. Is there anyone that restores / upgrades old gauges? 5) Switches on the dash all need to be replaced. Any suggestions on what type to use for the bilge, blower, lighting, etc? 6) Fake a lake - will this work on this boat? I've read certain CC have hulls that don't play nice with this, but if I'm going to rebuild and tune the carb I'd like to be able to do it in the shop. 7) Gel coating? The boat is in good shape from a body perspective, it's always on a lift in the summer under cover and then covered as well. The boat itself though is a little "dull". What can I do to preserve the color it still has and keep it (polish / protectant)? 8) Impeller. I forgot about this one - but this is a decent size motor and cooling is important. Anything I can do to replace the water pump system? I might as well just do it while now. I've read about the impeller in the pump on these being a common fail item. Anything else? This boat is relatively clean and taken care of, but just not to the level I would have unfortunately. I was thinking of augmenting the original analog dash with some electronics for speed, temp, etc - but I think I have enough on my plate for right now. Game plan for this year is to bring it up to "great" operating status by making sure the mechanical/electrical are all working well. Thanks so very much for any insight and suggestions! I'll keep digging for info. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Short answers:
1. Pull the LIST number off the choke horn and call Holley's 1800#. They'll tell you which rebuild kit you need. Make sure its a marine 650cfm 4160 while you have them on the horn. Do not run an auto carb. 2. Valvoline VR1 20w50. Lots of ZDDP for an older flat tappet motor. Wix/Napa filters are some of the best. 3. The distributor must be marine. Replacing it will set you back $300-400 for a nice electronic unit. I would opt to open it up and replace points and free up the weights/springs if its not showing signs of needing replacement. Plug wires arent marine specific, but need to be long enough to go under the headers (not over the valve covers) with a marine exhaust system. Replacing battery cables is a good idea if the old ones are corroded. Make sure you get marine (tinned) cable of a large gauge size. Think 0 awg. Skip the LED's. 4. Speedo redundancy is for tournament use, (not turns, you ski in a straight line)- the pickups can catch a weed and you lose the reading. New boats either have digital gauges (2 water pickups but only 1 display) or have a paddlewheel system (not susceptible to weeds) or GPS. Do some troubleshooting to figure out if its a problem with the gauge or somewhere upstream. Swapping intake tubes at the gauges would be a good first step. The original VDO gauges are pretty high quality- Id make the attempt to keep them original rather than swapping them out. 5. The original switches also have built in circuit breakers. You can get replacements at a Nautique dealer like White Lake or N3Boatworks, or from an electronics supply house like Newark. Note the breaker rating (amps) for each one you replace. 6. Dont bother with a fake a lake. A simple tee in the water line to hook up a garden hose is simple, cheap, and effective. 7. Lots of threads on wetsanding and polishing... pictures would help identify how bad it is now. Searching would reveal proven methods to restore gel color and shine. 8. If you dont know the impeller's age or condition, pull the raw water pump apart and inspect it at a minimum. Get a replacement to carry on the boat as a spare. This is a maintenance item. Dont go overboard with so-called "upgrades" just yet. Once you get the boat running and working as it should, you may be surprised to learn that it's "everything you need but nothing you dont". Definitely resist drilling holes at all costs. Welcome to CCF... post pictures when you get a chance! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Wow Tim. short answers but lots of them!!
8er, We want pictures! make sure you get some as well as some text submitted for the CCfan diaries section. Also, add your first name if you care to in your profile. I feel once you've had a chance to spend more time on the site you'll realize most here use their first names. Welcome to CCfan. |
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Swatkinz
Platinum Member Joined: December-03-2003 Location: Lexington, SC Status: Offline Points: 1307 |
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Welcome to the site. Cool boat project. The CC world is a small one, but you're in the right spot.
+3 on adding pictures |
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Steve
2011 Sport/Air 200 Excalibur 343 2017 Boatmate Tandem Axle Trailer Former CC owner (77, 80, 95, 88, all SNs) Former Malibu owner (07, 09) |
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BFNSport
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Lowell Michigan Status: Offline Points: 211 |
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Welcome fellow BFNer
Jeff |
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mglines
Newbie Joined: April-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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2. on my 86SN there is a oil drain hose i run out the plug in the bottom of the boat when I change my oil not sure if the BFN has one.
Grats on the boat. I agree with what was said earlier. Get the boat running this summer then in the fall plan what you want to do to the boat then do it in the winter/spring. I started my project too late and may not get it done before end of july :( |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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WindX - Since your are the primary caregiver to this beauty, you might want to check the shaft alignment & packing gland adjustment. Pete B. has a great video on these items that you can find at the bottom of this site.
Have a great time with the boat this summer - just working on them is fun to me. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Here's Hollies number,very helpful guy's. Holley Performance Products provides award-winning technical support via phone Monday through Friday from 8AM to 6PM CST, and Saturday from 9AM to 3PM CST @ 270 781-9741.
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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I need to post the carb rebuild kit part number i purchased thru Napa "Sierra" nice kit and pretty complete.
I guess you wouldnt need to change the trans fluid, the tranny's are like the 4th kid you never wanted, neglected, last in line, left out of the family photo's |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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quinner
Grand Poobah Joined: October-12-2005 Location: Unknown Status: Offline Points: 5828 |
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2) You may consider getting an extractor pump, can be used for motor and trans fluid changes. Bought a Suk Up Pump several years ago, best one I have ever owned.
Use DexMerc in the trans, right Eric? |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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The fluid extractors work great.
When I got my 77, it came with the oil drain hose you put through the bilge hull drain. I tried it once but just couldn't keep the water from coming into the boat. I went back to using the extractor! |
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86BFN
Gold Member Joined: July-28-2008 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 882 |
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Welcome! You're going to love that boat.
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Waterdog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2020 |
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Damn, Pete! I guess you didn't have a trailer?
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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OK guys, first of all - thanks for all of the suggestions. :) I've had a few other things come up in the mean time and am finally getting around to doing a few things in the next couple of weeks.
Here's a few pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/djmeier/BarefootNautique?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvC-7qclMWASQ&feat=directlink One thing I was wondering is that @TRBenj mentioned an electronic ignition. I'd like to do this - what should I get? My plan right now is the following: 1) Rebuild carb 2) Redo ignition 3) Change oil (motor & trans) 4) Filters 5) Try to fix the broken speedo sensor 6) Get all of the lighting working |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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That boat looks pretty darn nice- and all original, as far as I can tell.
That looks to be the original carb and distributor- I might be inclined to do a water test before tearing into or replacing anything. That being said, the LIST-9394 carb takes a Holley 703-28 renew kit, and I really like the DUI distributor we're running in our BFN. PerformanceDistributors Marine DUI The one thing I would definitely add to the list is to replace your riser gaskets. They look to be leaking pretty good externally, so better get new ones in there to prevent them from leaking internally... you dont want water in your cylinders. |
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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So for the distributor is this correct (I had been looking at the DUI based on another thread I found that you were talking about):
M12720 - All Small Block & Big Block Chevrolet V8's and C9051 - SB Chev - Under Headers ------------------------------------------------------- Also, where would you go about getting the riser gaskets from? Finally - is this the right bilge pump? I'm on a buying spree today. :) http://www.n3boatworks.com/eshopprod_cat_5045-68032-69650_product_868314.Bilge_Pump_Rule_500_GPH_Fully.htm EDIT: Riser gasket? http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RM0099 And would it be wise to get the exhaust rebuild kit, or just the riser gaskets? http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173091 Oh, and in terms of water test - I've driven the boat plenty last year. That's why I'm doing all of this this year while it's still out of the water. It needs to be done! Been neglected, or barely maintained, for quite a while. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Yes, that is the correct part number for the DUI. Im not sure about that p/n on the Livewires... you definitely want the under header wires, but those are for a small block. Might want to call and ask them if they have a BB version. The Livewires are really nice, but pricey!
Getting the full manifold kit is not a bad idea, but the one you have listed is for the 5.0/5.7. Call SkiDIM and see if they have a kit that fits the 454. That bilge pump should work well- we just installed the same one. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Links don't work like other sites. here's your link to the pictures |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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link 1 Link 2 Link 3 "Not Given", Also not common with other site, we have a tendency to use first names!! If you want, fill in your profile! I guess you don't want to let anyone know who you are?
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Thanks for all of the suggestions guys!
So far I haven't made a ton of progress, but I'm getting there. This weekend I pulled everything out of the boat in terms of seating and then the long plank that covers the tranny, pipes and prop shaft. Things were rather dirty so I spent a few hours degreasing, cleaning and regreasing where appropriate - I can now see the original color of the fiberglass! :) In the mean time I ordered a bunch of things. Particularly a new bilge, carb rebuild kit, riser gaskets and a few electrical. I also did order the DUI7k and the LiveWires (although after talking to a guy who did my order I'll have to wait at least a week for that since they're swamped). Tonight I'm doing the carb rebuild, plugs, bilge, and riser gaskets. I'll get some updated pics of where I'm at. But - a few questions of course for the experts! I'm going to buy a new battery - I see that group 65 & 48 will fit the battery compartment. Any suggestions on type? I have a DieHard Platinum in my truck (gel) and love it. I know I don't need deep cycle for just starting, but figured I'd look for some feedback. Mainly on the size I should get... Next up is electrical panel. Wow, CC did a horrible job wiring all of the accessory switches. Once I got under there I was surprised at how bad it was. They have a main 12v feed coming into the very bottom breaker (blower switch/breaker) and they Y that off in a daisy chain recursively all the way to the top breaker. Have any of you replaced that cluster of daisy chained awfulness with a power bar? My thoughts are take the 12v lead and drop it into a power bar (similar to the grounding bar that's back there). I've just found that a lot of the splits, in their 20+ years of service, are getting rather fragile. As for plugs - any suggestions? On the sticker it states "AC#MR43T". What size flush T do I need (I forgot to check and am now not anywhere near the boat)? I'll also try to get some video after I get things fired up! :) |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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1 week turnaround on the DUI is pretty quick... if it takes longer, dont be surprised!
Id go with a group 65 battery- they fill the batt box nicely. Im not married to any particular brand, just make sure to get a non-deep cycle. Ive got a bunch of Everstart MAXX-65N (Walmart brand) in most of my boats and theyve treated me well- good warranty and reasonably priced... though theyre a few bucks more expensive than they used to be. If you have a "ground bar" or bus, then its probably not original- but probably a good idea. I plan to add one to most of my boats (probably add power, ground and IGN busses) and get rid of the daisy chains. We had the MR43T's in our BFN. No need for the M (marine) designation though- the regular R43T's should suit you just fine. Your water inlet hose should be 1-1/4". Glad to see you gung ho on those riser gaskets... but dont be surprised if the bolts fight you and turn it into a longer project than you anticipate! Be patient and soak them if need be. |
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Thanks for the fast update (as usual!). Per your advice I soaked the riser bolts overnight before I attacked them with some DeepCreep - the very last one was a PitA (go figure) but the rest weren't too bad. I was amazed at how bad those gaskets were and the chunks of material in the water side of the outflow. Clean everything out and scraped the riser and header down to shiny metal. However I didn't happen to get new bolts when I ordered the gaskets so I'm off to get some grade 8's to replace today.
I have the carb completely apart (save one piece) and cleaned up. The question I have though is to get this last plate off what kind of screw head is that? The only thing I ran across online was a Holley jet remover that looked similar. Do auto parts stores carry this? I haven't rebuilt a carb in years and wasn't sure. I can probably get them out with something else, but would rather do it right. Hoping I can get everything put back together this evening. Then all that's left is the electrical and throw in the new bilge. I read through the controversy that is feeding the boat water thread and all of the debate over collapsing hoses, etc. I think I'll swing over to Lowe's and build your setup TRBenj. Thanks much if anyone has any insight on that Holley question! |
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TimSpangler
Senior Member Joined: November-19-2010 Location: Gettysburg, PA Status: Offline Points: 198 |
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I noticed on the carb that it is using the old style spring screws on the bowls. You will need to get new (updated) screws to replace those (if you haven't already). Nice boat Is the seat behind the driver a standard feature on the BFN? I like it, and I may want to do something like that on my SN.
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Really? Why's that (the need for new screws)?
I'll put up better pics once I'm all done, but thanks! I'm guessing it was standard. The upholstery on it is identical to the rest of it which is the only reason I'm making that assumption. I could very well be wrong though! |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Good move on the simple tee for the garden hose.
Those screws on the rear metering plate come out pretty easily with a large phillips screw driver... but Im curious if anyone knows a better trick! Those seats are removeable and were optional in BFN's starting sometime in the early 80's. They were called "judges seats". CC started offering something similar in those about 10 years ago and called them "jump seats". They work great as additional removeable seating... Im going to build a few some day. |
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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OK, good deal, I just didn't know if they'd be in there too tight and I didn't want to potentially wreck any soft metal.
So can I get away with reusing those screws? Or can I get something that's not a special order to use in place of? Was hoping to get it all done in the next two days. |
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TimSpangler
Senior Member Joined: November-19-2010 Location: Gettysburg, PA Status: Offline Points: 198 |
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For the Secondary metering block, those are clutch head screws. You can get a small set for about 10 online. Apparently they can cause a leak situation, and the new gasket washers will not work correctly with the old style screws. The new screws are hex head. (I just rebuild mine about 2 weeks ago)
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TimSpangler
Senior Member Joined: November-19-2010 Location: Gettysburg, PA Status: Offline Points: 198 |
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Yep Clutch Head Screwdrivers
Thanks TIM, I am going to look into that a bit more. |
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BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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I trimmed a small flathead screwdriver to fit those screws...works great.
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windexh8er
Newbie Joined: May-17-2011 Status: Offline Points: 11 |
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Well after a lot of late nights this week I got the boat back in the water. Everything was running much better when in the driveway then last year. The 454 idles much smoother now. I think, at this point, I'm lacking some tuning of the Holley though. In the driveway it would start right up, maybe with just a touch of throttle. I had it out for a quick run down the lake back to the cabin and it seemed to run well - although this is where I noticed one of the differences. About mid throttle there seems to be a rather large flat spot now. It pulls relatively well on the low end, then once the boat planes out and I opened it up there was a 4-5 seconds where it felt like a slow spool and then once I got over the hump it took off again.
Are there any good tuning posts, videos or any other reference material out there? Most of the stuff I've found was geared towards car tuning and I'm not sure most of it applies. The other thing is that the electric choke is cranked way past the markers that are all along the top. This is the way it was when I started working on the carb and, I figured after the rebuild, that I would be able to go back to the markings - but it refused to idle at all directly in the middle. The only thing I really adjusted on the carb was to make sure the floats were level and then adjusted the idle screw up from the 1/4 turn further open as suggested in the paperwork that came with the rebuild. Also - off hand how much oil does the PCM 454 take? I only got 6 in it before it said it was full. Oil pressure seems to be a bit high when running. Thanks much in advance gents!!! Oh - I also found out we have two of those "judges" seats that were original with the boat. So if anyone needs any dimensions let me know I can get more detailed pics of one out too if that helps. |
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