1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

OK, I'll try Car Quest or Napa. What are my options if I can't find one?

Well I decided on the gray. Placed my order this morning. Thought about the cream but figured the gray would be a good neutral color. You can't hardly see bilge anyway once it's all together.

I ground off all of the old gelcoat. That stuff was a pain for sure. If I stick to my plan I'll have the stringers fiberglassed in this weekend, I'm sure USC will not get my tint to me tomorrow so I won't be able to tint my last coating unless I hold off on the biax till next week.

Almost forgot to ask one more question. I am taking my bellhousing to a welding shop today to have them look at welding the cracks on the engine mount clamps. I was going to have them sandblast the whole thing so I can go right to painting it. Is there any problem having them sandblast the aluminum?

One more thing, cover the data tag with heavy tape prior to blasting.

Would this work if I needed to go to a new alternator?

Skidim

There's also a 61 amp on Summit but it's more expensive.

Summit

Not really sure how many amps I need...

vondy wrote: connorssons wrote: One more thing, cover the data tag with heavy tape prior to blasting. Going good Jeff. Just ready to be done with this beast and get on the water. Maybe you should send one of those Separators down my way so I can take my time with the Mustang and still have a boat for the summer. Yeah, I was going to emphasize the importance of protecting the tag. Wish I had a sandblasting setup at the house, that would come in very handy.

David,

I can hook you up on the sand blaster. Takes a pretty good compressor though.

TX Wind wrote: David, I can hook you up on the sand blaster. Takes a pretty good compressor though.

Yeah Jeff that's my problem. The lack of a compressor with enough CFMs to run one. I would not be able to justify the cost of one that large, unless I found it used for a great price.

Actually just got back from the welders, they did it while I waited so I did not have the blasting done. I'll just take the angle grinder and wire wheel to it.

You are still welcome to come by and take a look at the Mustang if you want.

I'd love to David but I've been in a real push to get some things done with my own boat here lately. Just went by the TPWD in Garland, I wasn't far away but no time to stop. I would be careful using a wire wheel on aluminium. They can etch it really bad. Carb cleaner does wonders for removing paint from aluminium. I would try that.

Im surprised that motor has that alternator and regulator on it David,what is your engine number? I thought my boat was older than yours. My engine number is 2611 and it has a Prestolite alternator with one wire.Now that I wrote this I looked in the HM book and see they have 2 alternators,Autolite and Prestolite.By the wiring diagram and the fact that you have a regulator, I'll bet you have an Autolite system. When I blasted my bellhousing,I took the serial tag off by tapping the rivits out from the back with a very small punch,the holes go all the way thru.I was able to reuse everything when done.

Hay Vondy! are you going to remove the front lift eye support, it looks pretty bad.

You should be alright on the red spots, and on my 67 stang the panels had no foam. hope this helps. jeff

Are you going with a single wire? thay dont look bad, thx for the link i need one to.

I could see light through my hull when I had it all apart and it scared me, but that is normal. Without the gelcoat on the outside the hull would be practically see through.

You are moving along nicely!

Officially done grinding. All cleaned up and ready to go for tomorrow morning.

Thanks Jeff. Actually someone sent me a template a few years ago... now if I can only find it

Do you know what is used for the panel? I was thinking a thin ply.