1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

It took me several minutes of staring at it, but I see the same thing that DrCC is saying. The difference between the MV1 and MV2 backing plates is the second (lower) tranmission cable mount.

A little pictorial:



Whats missing is the piece in blue. Like Pete said, the trans bracket (yellow arrow) would need to be flipped- and face down instead of up. What *might* be possible to do without requiring a different backing plate is to flip it over. This would require relocating the trans bracket (green) and throttle bracket (red) be moved to the opposite side. I know the throttle bracket is held on by screws- I cant remember if the trans cable is riveted, welded, or just bent over.

DrCC wrote: We have a WINNER!!! Vondy,   sorry I didn't spot it from your first pics. But, you can't do what you are trying to without a different back plate. You need a back plate that has "Dual" mount clamps. So,   Slayer, prepare for refreshments.      Pete, get out your wallet.

Getting thirsty over here, Pete. Impending deliciousness.

DrCC wrote: More confusion Tim? It has nothing to do with MV1-MV2. Some MV1's had the Dual mount. Some had just the one. Could be, a PO cut one off.

Which part is confusing, Al? Can the plate be flipped as I describe? Ive never tried it, Im just spitballing here.

Sorry for mis-speaking... I should have said that some MV1's (like mine, Vondy's and presumably Wakeslayer's) only have a single trans bracket, whereas the MV2's always have this (at least thats what is shown in the manual).

So now that we have decided it can't be done, I'll go Mike's route. Is there a consensus on cable length for that way?

Getting thirstier...

You don't need to get Moose Drool on my account, Pete. Just not Spotted Cow.

Depending upon my mode of transportation, I will bring the MV1 from the 67.

I would assume that the 36" ones would be fine. Just low pressure hydraulic hose. You could probably go to a farm store locally and get them made however you want them based upon your old ones.

David,
I still like the idea of the cables going forward and then looping down into the bilge instead of the tighter bends they need to go down the hull sides aft. You could use some finish (cup) washers and a couple of machine screws to plug uo the holes of the Morse you'd end up with.

8122pbrainard wrote: David, I still like the idea of the cables going forward and then looping down into the bilge instead of the tighter bends they need to go down the hull sides aft. You could use some finish (cup) washers and a couple of machine screws to plug uo the holes of the Morse you'd end up with.

Pete, youre not advocating a non-original modification are you? Especially one that involves drilling more holes?!

Ill still suggest keeping the backwards routing of the cables- the bends arent so tight as to cause binding. My Skier's throttle is as smooth as any Ive used. If you are dead set on going forward, Id be looking for a used throttle plate that can be reversed more easily... even if you have to buy the whole control to get it.

The u-turn I would have to make having them come from the back of the control is nothing compared to the turn it made down the side to the floor like in the old way. And the controls were very smooth.

Should I notch my floor around the motor mount wedges directly to the stringers or should I mount right on top of the floor?

This weekend I was able to get all the ribs and floor pieces cut and CPESed. My plan is to put 1 layer of glass cloth on to each side of each piece. My question today is after I bed the ribs in place, how much, if any, glassing to the hull should I do? I was thinking 1 4inch strip. Thoughts?

And on the floor to hull, I was going to do the 2, 4, 6 tape. Should I double them up like the stringers? Should I biax or would that be too much stress on the hull sides?

Thanks guys! Putting in some overtime on this beast of a project. It's amazing how much time some of the things you think would be easy actually take.

David,
Yes, the port to starboard "ribs" should be glassed to the hull just like the the stringers. It just makes the whole "system" work together from a structural standpoint.

WOW, it looks like you are becoming a real pro with the glass!! From the pictures, it looks like you did not radius the top edges of any of the stringers. It can be a real PITA to get the glass to make that corner!! What have you laid over it so far?

vondy wrote: Thanks Pete. I did put a quarter inch radius on the stringers. The mains are wrapped in biax and on the secondaries I brought the last layer of glass around the top. None on the ribs. Figured they didn't need fiberglass wrapped around the sides since all the sides will be bedded in thickened epoxy. Both faces of all the ribs are glassed.

You"re cool but just in case someone comes on site and hears about the thickened resin, the bottom line is it is NOT as strong as actual cloth no matter what the "weave" is.

Keep going!! I want to hear that engine going again!!

The ribs in my case are really for extra flood support. Also wanted to avoid the notched in cross bracing. Actually most of the water I'm on is way too rough. Maybe the ribs will help.

I put one layer of 2 inch and one of 4 inch on the ribs. Will probably add a layer of 6 to the larger pieces. One half is done, will finish up in the morning and hopefully get some floor pieces down.