1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

What do I need to do differently with my new alternator as far as wiring goes? Does the one wire go to the harness that brings it to the gauge?

Do I need to beef up the wire at all? My new alternator is 105 amps.

Pete it's an amp meter. Says 40, 0, 40.

8122pbrainard wrote: David, What brand gauges do you have. I think you should start looking for a matching volt meter. As mentioned, if you keep the amp meter, it requires running new wire up and back. The amp meter sees power first and then goes to the battery via the start relay. With a 100 amp alternator, that's going to be some pretty heavy wire!!! 6 ga and that's with about a 10% voltage drop!! It can be done but the heavy wire is a must. Why the big alternator? If you mentioned it, I must have missed it.

Pete that was the smallest alt they had. My understanding is you only pull as many amps as you need.

I don't know if I care what kind of meter I have. Not sure what the advantage/disadvantage would be. The advantage of keeping the current one is it's original. I can spend 30 bucks on 6 gauge for the amp meter or spend 40 bucks on a new unmatched volt meter and 6 gauge to the solenoid.

What do you think?

Thanks Pete, guess I'll go that route. I'll order some 6 gauge along with my new batter cables. I'm locating the batter all the way forward to the bow. It will have it's on little shelf and I'll strap it down into a battery box. This way I can avoid having to build a battery box under the floor. It does mean I'll have to guy some expensive cable though. Looks like 4/0 AWG.

I can barely make out that diagram. You say alternator to amp gauge. Amp gauge to key. Key to solenoid. Is that right?

Thanks Pete, I found the file. I also have a diagram in my HM book.

Do you know off the top of your head how long those wires need to be from the solenoid to the dash? I'm guessing 15 feet or so.

charger496 wrote: Hey Dave, Take some pictures of your battery layout plan. when you get it figured out. I also wanted to move the battery foreward to make room for a storage area or cooler, but it ended up not being practical for my build. I would still like to have done that, but there wasn't enough space in my 2nd gen SN hull without some serious airbox modifications. In the end, my passenger seat is usually facing backwards, so anything added under the bow would have been difficult to access anyway. Maybe you have more room with the single seat instead of a double.

I'll try to take a pic tonight for ya.

I was really hoping to get an ice chest in there but with the two pvc pipes it would have to be real thin. Then you add the box structure and insulation you might be able to fit a couple of beers in there. If I had more time I might could have figured something out but times a wasting.

My battery will not be easily accessible, I'll have to lay down and crawl under the bow. Not a big deal for me. I don't plan on moving it but a few times a year. I'm not doing a big kick panel either. I want to be able to easily slide stuff under the bow. Will have a small lip so the stuff doesn't slide back when underway.

I will put an inline switch on the battery in case I need to disconnect quickly.

Sorry, I got a little too excited about a battery box...

So what do I do about this? Loose on one end, snug on the other.

Is that 1-3/4" hose? Thats common on inboards... but older CC's tend to use 1-1/2".

We just grabbed some 1-1/2" hose from NAPA.

Yep, looks good David.

I was really happy with the placement of my battery box in the between the seats. I put a kickboard in ours for the amp, and heater vents. Heater is mounted up where your battery is going.
Don't even start on the heater, Pete. A warm wife is a happy wife. Ha ha.
You are probably better off with the larger hose on the log. Getting the 1 1/2 on there is an absolute bastage. There should be room for two clamps. I got them on ours, and was unable to get the hose all the way on.

WakeSlayer wrote: You are probably better off with the larger hose on the log. Getting the 1 1/2 on there is an absolute bastage. There should be room for two clamps. I got them on ours, and was unable to get the hose all the way on.

If he's got the same log as my sister's '69 and our '79 (which were the same) then I really dont think the 1-3/4" hose is a good idea. There was just way too much of a gap to suck up with the clamps... I would have been worried about keeping water out of that connection. The 1-1/2" went on really hard, like you said, but it'll go- and its not gonna leak!

SkiDIM has 1-1/2" fuel fill hose, but we just grabbed some stuff from NAPA.

Good point, you'd probably be wrestling with that wire reinforced hose. I want to say the wall thickness of the hose we found was in the 3/16-1/4" range.

I just remembered we have a hose supply company a few doors down from work. Surely they will have something.

I fought with 1.5" wire re enforced fuel line for 2 weeks and could not get it on both pieces. Do yourself a favor and get some decent non wire reenforced hose from NAPA. I believe the stuff I used was Gates and it was better than the 40 yo old rubber hose I removed.