2000 Sport Nautique Speedometer

Could anyone advise as to how to start to replace the pickup (Pitot) tubing from the outside of my 2000 Sport, to the speedometer and what may be involved? I can see so far that it looks like the ballast tanks need to be removed, but what about the "equalizer" I have been reading about?

Can anyone provide me with some insight??

Thanks,
-dave

Dave, what are the symptoms? Does the display on your digital speedometer still work? Do you see any change in speed on your speedometer? Does the paddle wheel turn freely?

Scott,
My speedometer looks like this:
http://www4.shopping.com/Faria-Faria-Chesapeake-Series-Speedometer-60-Mph/info

-dave

Yes, gotta get the dash pulled back to see what's going on there.
I'll keep you posted.

Did you find out what the problem was? I am having the same problems

Actually I am still working on it, as baseball, lawn, graduations, etc. are getting in my way. I think I have it narrowed down to the "speed transducer", which from what I understand go bad easily. Wonderful!
I have contacted Faria via phone, after many attempts, and they sent me a trouble shooting white paper on how to see if the transducer is bad. I plan on doing that when I get home tonight weather pending. I will post tomorrow if I get to it tonight.

Well, the rain stopped long enough to do the test, and it show's that the "speed transducer" is in fact bad. Replacing it will prove that correct, I hope. Here are the instructions from Faria that I followed:
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To test the sensor on the boat connected to the speedometer:
1. Turn on the key to supply power to the instrument.

2. With the paddle wheel still. Check the VDC Signal to Ground at the back of the speedometer,* it should be a bit less than battery voltage.    (For example, with a battery voltage of 13VDC at the rear of the speedometer, Signal to Ground voltage would be about 10VDC). If Signal to Ground reading is (Zero VDC) turn the paddle wheel slowly until you get a (10VDC) reading on the voltmeter. If you slowly turn the paddle wheel and get these alternating voltage readings the sensor is good. If you slowly turn the paddle wheel and the voltage stays the same (10VDC or Zero VDC), the sensor is bad.

3. Spin the paddlewheel. If the sensor is good: You will read about one half the Signal to Ground VDC or about (5VDC) with sensor spinning.**

4. Spin the paddlewheel. If the sensor is bad: You will read the original Signal to Ground voltage, (10VDC or Zero VDC) with sensor spinning.**

*Note: On Serial Bus systems check the voltages at the harness between the paddlewheel and the Gateway box not at the speedometer.

**Note: You may not be able to spin the paddlewheel with the boat in the water.
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I need to acquire a new "speed transducer" (Paddlewheel), and then I will post the results. Let me know how you make out trouble shooting your issue.

Thanks, -dave

Yes, Speed Transducer = Paddlewheel. Ordering the parts today from White Lake Marine. Will update after installation.

Unfortunately there never was a recall by CC to replace these faulty gauges. All retrofits were a result of the boat owner wanting gauges that work. If it was a recall, the replacement gauges would have been installed free of charge, and most if not all of the original lcd gauges would be gone from boats that had them.

Well, that is what I was told, that CC warranted the gauges because the VDO's were crap. The service was done by the marine that I bought my boat from used, I don't know why they would misinform me?

Anyhow, my gauges except for the correct hours on the tachometer are working. That's all I care about.

I have no clue.