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1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

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uk 1979 part2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk 1979 part2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2011 at 6:23pm
If you don’t mind going none original I’m wondering if you could use PCM top mount only Trunnion Assembly part number RA092016 on all 4 mounts these have 1’ inch Trunnions if you have the same easy swap but if you have 7/8 as my Y block then I would get a local shop to spin them down, and if yours are 1’1/8 then a split collar over the PCM would work.

Failing that you could weld up the old lag holes and redrill to fit the trunnion boss that way if you need to gain height to fit onto the stringers just rotate the original trunnions 180’ no more wedges just nuts to set.

This how CC fitted Chevy’s back in 78 in my SN would make adjustment easy but if original is your goal then this may be food for thought to others.

Oh that fram filter was on it when I got it I now know better.
   
lets have a go 2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2011 at 6:35pm
Roger, your absolutely right and you probably already know this, but the adjustable mounts in your picture look to be OMC's (not PCM's).

The reason CC was probably able to get away with wedges only in back was that they likely placed the engine down in the boat and did not drill the lag holes until everything was lined up. Having front/back adjustability as well as up/down in the back is probably enough to align it. You would have the same luxury since youre replacing the stringers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2011 at 8:03am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Roger, your absolutely right and you probably already know this, but the adjustable mounts in your picture look to be OMC's (not PCM's).


I didn't know my old ones were OMC's but I do now
The PCM part number I used is there type look much the same as the picture showing the set up, the old OMC trunnions are 11/4 from over here I'm going for HM trunnions are 7/8 or 1'inch.

Can you still get new rubbers for old OMC mounts?
Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2011 at 9:36am
David,
I knew Ted could help out. The last time I was at his house, borrowing his valve grinder for my Flexifour rebuild, I saw a box of the wedges.

BTW, I've mentioned Ted several times. He's retired and now does engine rebuilds. Pretty much Chris/Hercules and Gray's but others too. I hope you said hello for me!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 4:04pm
I'm about to start assembling things. The 3m tube says 7 days to cure. My hope is to have her in the water next Saturday. Y'all thing that will be enough curing time?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 4:27pm
David,
You'll be fine. The 7 days is for a full cure/full strength. Spray some water on it - it's a moisture cure and giving it some moisture will speed it up.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 4:30pm
7 days?   You sure it's not 72 hours?
3 days, you should be good to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 5:09pm
Originally posted by DrCC DrCC wrote:

7 days?   You sure it's not 72 hours?
3 days, you should be good to go.

Al,
It's 7 days! You don't have some around to look at the instructions?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 5:51pm

3M™
Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200    
This high-performance polyurethane
adhesive sealant becomes tack-free in
24-48 hours, and completely cures in
5-7 days with no shrinking.

Al,
Please don't tell me you use silicone!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 6:47pm
We need some new pics! Got to be exciting putting it back together!
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 8:53pm
I'll get some pics up soon, I'm pretty much working nonstop on the thing so hard to get pics uploaded. And work is busy so can't do it up there either. Should have some up tomorrow.

Thanks for the info guys, I figured it would surely be cured by 5 days.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2011 at 9:03pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

We need some new pics! Got to be exciting putting it back together!

Originally posted by vondy vondy wrote:

I'll get some pics up soon, I'm pretty much working nonstop on the thing so hard to get pics uploaded. And work is busy so can't do it up there either. Should have some up tomorrow.

I sure hope you're taking time out to get laid!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 12:44pm
Pete nothing turns my wife on more than having her tighten the nuts on my strut in 98 degree weather. Then having to rub her down with acetone to get the 5200 off her hands. Let me tell you, she's in love.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:00pm
Here's a few.



Note the cast iron wedge.




Vinyl Sample


All painted up








Pretty much at the assembly stage. Have to glass in my gas tank risers and glue the vinyl down. Still have some through-hull hardware to install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:15pm
Looks great!   You will be on the water in no time!
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 2:52pm
David,
Look'n great. I especially like the vinyl wall covering for the floor - Yes, keep it ORIGINAL!!! Where did you find it?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 3:04pm
That's just the Nautolex flooring. Love it. It has a nice grip to it, looks great, color is just right, exactly what we were looking for.

Sandstone color.
http://www.garysupholstery.com/ntomarfloor.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 3:17pm
When my red carpet is done I hope to switch to the nautolex flooring too. I like the look of the red but it shows every little speck and is a chore to keep it looking clean. I am curious to see how much it takes to cover the floor and walls. Pretty sure the carpet I got was 6' wide and 15' long and I only ended up with 1 seam on the SB wall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 9:21pm
There was some type of rope packing around my exhaust pipes when I removed them. Will the 5200 be enough to seal these off? It will be a tight fit already.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 9:34pm
Yes, I smear a thin layer in the hole with a healthy bead on the tube.
Cleans up alot better with mineral spirits than it does with acetone or lacquer thinner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 9:52pm
David,
You have the original design of exhaust flange. They were simply a flange and the copper exhaust tubing went though them. On the inside of the flange is a chamfer that accepted the rope packing. When the flange was tightened down to the transom, the packing would compress down on the tubing.

Yes, glop it up with the 5200!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:39pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

David,
Look'n great. I especially like the vinyl wall covering for the floor - Yes, keep it ORIGINAL!!! Where did you find it?


If he's keeping it original,he'd have a fiberglass pan ----

I think it looks great David,your engine turned out nice too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:47pm
All I have are short stainless pipes that go through the wood supports and hull. There is a trim ring on the outside. Originally there was a fiberglass "shroud" that surrounded the pipe. I believe it was covered by the hose. Guess water could not get in that way.

Should I through any thickened epoxy around it or just hit it hard with the 5200?

Here is kind of what it looked like. I had already ground some of it away.


Here is a shot of how it goes together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote connorssons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:48pm
Hay Vond! looks super, you have been kicking aassssss! good luck on the maiden voyage
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote connorssons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:50pm
5200 both sides and in middle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2011 at 10:54pm
Exactily how mine were done too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2011 at 9:21am
Just the 5200.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MAN - GA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2011 at 11:40am
David,

Nice work and the motor looks great - I know this is a very minor comment in your overall progress, but is a little easier to do this now than after you get all the belts, cooler, etc. put back on the front of the engine. I see you put timing tape on the damper and I had done this as well when I recently replaced my timing chain and in the humidity under the motor cover it lasted one trip to the lake. From my experience you might want to use a paint marker to identify the degrees adjacent to the timing tape now before bolting all the appurtenances back up.
Great job I will probably have to do this project sooner or later with my 75 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2011 at 12:59pm
Thanks for the comments everyone.

All my through hull-fittings are now in place. I'm planning on gluing the vinyl down tonight and dropping the engine in tomorrow. I'll run all the wires, cables and hoses before the engine goes in. If she runs, , then I'll put the seats, etc in and hopefully be ready to go.

I will say, there is not one single easy thing on this project. Like this morning, I tried to get my new 1.5" hose onto the stuffing box. I don't see how it's possible. I heated it and could get it about half way then it cooled, shrunk, and slid off. I don't understand why the stuffing box and log are two different sizes. Was someone drunk when they designed that?

I could go on for hours... but I won't. Just ready to be done. And hopefully reap the benefits of my hard work.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2011 at 12:51pm
Well most everything is in and done besides the engine. Still have to hook up the prop, various wires, put the gas tank in, connect the exhaust, and other little things here-and-there.

Pete I need some help on this alternator wiring. I know we discussed but want to make sure I get it right so I don't blow anything up.

You say to run my single wire from the alternator to the amp gauge. What post would I want to hook it up to on the amp gauge? I believe there are 3. Then you say from there go to the key switch. Again, what post? From there it runs back to the starter solenoid. I believe here it should connect to the post the battery connects too. It also appears there is a smaller post on the alternator, don't know if it's a ground wire or something?

Almost there guys! Will drop the engine in tonight and pray she fits. Then pray she starts! Then pray she floats!
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