'86 Barefoot Nautique 2001

Thanks BuffaloBFN - I appreciate the feedback!

I've been watching a lot of videos since I've posted and I'm thinking it may be the accelerator pump at this point, so I'm going to do a little tweaking tomorrow to see if I can resolve the problem.

As for the electric choke I found one good article on how to adjust it properly so I'm going to give that a try. I think it may actually be broken or not working correctly however based on what I've read. I took it apart and it looked clean inside - but since I've only dealt with mechanical chokes in the past I was slightly confused as to how it was supposed to work. Either way I'll learn something from it I guess!

To answer your question the boat has been in my wife's family for quite a while (over 10 years I believe). Although, taken care of cosmetically very well (stored, covered, winterized, etc) the mechanical side has been neglected somewhat. I don't think the carb was ever rebuilt based on what the gaskets looked like. Amazingly none of the diaphrams were ripped. So what I did was rebuilt with a kit - so all is new in terms of carb internals. The only thing I really ended up "tuning" while in the driveway (because it seemed to be running very well) was the fast idle screw. I didn't touch anything else (which, I found odd). Anyway, thanks for taking the time to reply - I'll keep plugging away on Google until I have a lot of suggestions to try tomorrow. Sucks that there's so much boat traffic this weekend, but it is the holiday I guess!

7 quarts? I was scared to put more in after I hit full when changing. I ran it for a few minutes, let it drain back down, checked and added another .5 quart (total of 6). Came to the full mark on the stick (almost exactly). Seemed low for such a big engine - my Tundra takes more (4.7 V8 comparably). 60 pounds is where the gauge seemed to hover. Odd thing is it didn't sway a whole lot on idle vs under load. So maybe it's another gauge I have to replace. So far both speedos now work (with new pickups), volt meter seems to be off (compared to a reading I get off a multimeter on the alternator) by about 2 volts (low), temp gauge seems to work (what's hot for this motor BTW?) and fuel gauge bounces around like a super ball (but at least gives somewhat of an idea!). Oh yeah, the tach works too.

Thank again for the commendation! I like to do things the right way, and - at some level - I feel like I rushed to get it out onto the water for the weekend. But I told my wife I'll probably pull it back out if it makes sense to work on other things.

Oh - and, when I changed the oil (used the 20W-50 VR1 recommended BTW) I couldn't find a passage down into the pan from oil fill. So I used the cheesy oil drain tube - took forever, so I changed the plugs and rewired the new bilge while it ran like molasses. Maybe nobody's used that tube in a while, but it seemed painfully slow (and the oil was still warm - had it running maybe 45 minutes prior).

Lots to do still. I think in the next two years I'll have the boat figured out! I'd like to get it to a point where it's one of those 'coveted' old school boats. But, not having a good background in boating it's going to be considerably more work on my part!

windexh8er wrote: I've been watching a lot of videos since I've posted and I'm thinking it may be the accelerator pump at this point, so I'm going to do a little tweaking tomorrow to see if I can resolve the problem.

I was thinking that the secondaries might not be coming in as soon as they should. That's why I asked about the diaphram. Sometimes the port can plug up too. I think the accelerator pump is more for initial kick at lower rpms, but I could be wrong.

windexh8er wrote: As for the electric choke I found one good article on how to adjust it properly so I'm going to give that a try. I think it may actually be broken or not working correctly however based on what I've read. I took it apart and it looked clean inside - but since I've only dealt with mechanical chokes in the past I was slightly confused as to how it was supposed to work. Either way I'll learn something from it I guess!

It should be almost closed when cold and wide open when warmed up.

windexh8er wrote: 7 quarts? I was scared to put more in after I hit full when changing. I ran it for a few minutes, let it drain back down, checked and added another .5 quart (total of 6). Came to the full mark on the stick (almost exactly). Seemed low for such a big engine

From your pics you look to have a completely unmolested engine from the factory, so I'd assume you have the same pan that I have...but we all know about that word.

windexh8er wrote: 60 pounds is where the gauge seemed to hover. Odd thing is it didn't sway a whole lot on idle vs under load. So maybe it's another gauge I have to replace.

Or maybe the sender. Marine senders are different than auto. Ohms I think; others can explain it better. There's also the wiring issues that can affect any/all of the gauges(most). I run between 20 and 60.

windexh8er wrote: Oh - and, when I changed the oil (used the 20W-50 VR1 recommended BTW) I couldn't find a passage down into the pan from oil fill. So I used the cheesy oil drain tube - took forever

???

What's your handle and what's your 20?

I didn't say 'don't trust the stick'. Again, that engine looks all factory, so the correct parts should be there. Does your pan drain from the rear center?

The diaphram I mean is in the secondary vacuum chamber/pot. That mechanism opens the secondaries. Double pumper means it has 2 accelerator pumps.

handle=name      Cheesy old line from Smokey and the Bandit.

SD...on my list of places to see some day.

BuffaloBFN wrote: windexh8er wrote: Oh - and, when I changed the oil (used the 20W-50 VR1 recommended BTW) I couldn't find a passage down into the pan from oil fill. So I used the cheesy oil drain tube - took forever ???

Greg he went on the recommendation from Tim

TRBenj wrote: 2. Valvoline VR1 20w50. Lots of ZDDP for an older flat tappet motor. Wix/Napa filters are some of the best.

BuffaloBFN wrote: What's your handle?

From his google pic account I'm gonna guess it's David Meier


Nice looking boat David... I really like those observer seats, pretty neat. Don't give up the fight, we'll get you back up and running puuuurrrrrrfect in no time.

As far as what your voltmeter is reading on the dash as compared to what your multimeter reads straight off the alternator.....it's a common problem. They ALL do it. Common problem is the smaller gage grnd wire to the instrument panel from the factory. Your gages will probably peg to the right when you turn the nav lights on. Those here who have taken the time to fix it just went to a heavier gage gnd wire and it remedied the problem.

Thanks guys!

So I'm pretty sure the electric choke is busted - which is why it's cranked to the leanest setting (always open).

But the real problem is still the carb for now. I had my brother-in-law driving while I was watching and the secondary doesn't open if you are cruising slow and then hit it to WOT. It opens very slowly. I adjusted the springed nut on the primary pump - but I think I made the situation worse by lowering the amount of travel.

Anyway - any thoughts on tuning in the secondary to open sooner? I think I might just need to buy a 4-barrel tuning guide at this point.

Thanks and happy 4th if you're all enjoying fireworks tonight!

EDIT:
One thing I just thought about is the the baffle that's at the top of the metering block side that has the power valve. It's a small brass or copper piece - and I'm wondering if I had put that on wrong. Does the V of the baffle face up like a V or down like a ^? Just wondering if I may have put that on upside down. Just bugging me the throttle response is worse than before it was rebuilt.